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Author: Subject: Blanking Pinto heater take-off
vinny1275

posted on 19/5/08 at 08:51 AM Reply With Quote
Blanking Pinto heater take-off

Hi all,

The red silicon hoses arrived this weekend, adn by some miracle, my measuring of angles was correct! I had to modify some of the hoses as they were longer than I expected, but overall, it was quite a smooth job.

the thing I had forgotten about was blanking off the heater take-off on the water pump housing. What's the easiest way of doing it? chemical metal / expanding foam down the bore, or can you get a cover thing to blank it off?

Thanks,


vince






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Mr Whippy

posted on 19/5/08 at 08:56 AM Reply With Quote
hmm is that pipe not suppose to be going to the manifold connection? Even if you’re not using a heater matrix

my webber carb manifold still has the water pipe connection. Are you using bike carbs? I'd imagine that it would be difficult to get the air out if not using it as the manifold outlet is the highest point on the head.


[Edited on 19/5/08 by Mr Whippy]






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vinny1275

posted on 19/5/08 at 09:00 AM Reply With Quote
I've heard of people just blanking both (and I've not put anything on the manifold for it (yet!).....






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Mr Whippy

posted on 19/5/08 at 09:06 AM Reply With Quote
you could try it. How about soldering a copper blanking plug in the end of the pipe. B&Q sells them in the plumbing section.






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02GF74

posted on 19/5/08 at 09:12 AM Reply With Quote
if the plumbing is like that for crossflow, the take off from the head goes to the heater then to a tek off on the water pump.

this circuit is always open to give heat for the occupants before the thermostat opens.

I would query the sense of blocking it off - there shold be flow prior to the thermostat opening - plumb it to the water pump take off.






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andyharding

posted on 19/5/08 at 10:02 AM Reply With Quote
You should be OK to block it as long as:-

1) you can still bleed all air out of the system.

2) You have some form of thermostat bypass to allow a small amount of water to circulate until the thermostat opens. Otherwise you will get hot spots and the thermostat will not open at the correct time.

Note: it is not acceptable to just remove the thermostat as this will cause the engine to run too cool.





Are you a Mac user or a retard?

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Mr Whippy

posted on 19/5/08 at 10:12 AM Reply With Quote
oh yeah now I remember the last time this was brought up and folk said they had drilled a small hole in the thermostat disk to allow it to heat up since I think the wax piston is on the wrong side to heat up without the heater bypass flow.






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vinny1275

posted on 19/5/08 at 10:17 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by andyharding


Note: it is not acceptable to just remove the thermostat as this will cause the engine to run too cool.


Bugg3r. ahh well, that'll be going back in then!

Thanks for the replies everyone, I'll try and figure that one out this weekend!






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John.Taylor

posted on 19/5/08 at 12:30 PM Reply With Quote
I asked my engine builder about this and he said that without the heater run around the pump wouldn't do anything other than churn the water up around it until the thermostat opened.

To avoid hot spots he suggested that at the very least I should tee the manifold back into the bottom hose with some small diameter tube and should also look at fitting a non standard 82oC thermostat so it opens quicker.

I actually ran the manifold to the pump and fitted the 82oC thermostat, both of which work great. I haven't put the bodywork on yet but it sat idling at 1,000rpm on my drive for 20 mins with the temp gauge never venturing past the bottom of normal!






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jacko

posted on 19/5/08 at 05:42 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by vinny1275
quote:
Originally posted by andyharding


Note: it is not acceptable to just remove the thermostat as this will cause the engine to run too cool.


Bugg3r. ahh well, that'll be going back in then!

Thanks for the replies everyone, I'll try and figure that one out this weekend!



Hi i dont have a stat fitted its been like that for 4 + years and runs at 85dgs

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MikeRJ

posted on 19/5/08 at 05:59 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by jacko

Hi i dont have a stat fitted its been like that for 4 + years and runs at 85dgs


It may run at 85 degrees at one perticular ambient temperature but without some form of thermostatic control the engines temperature will vary up and down with ambient (even if your gauge doesn't show it).

Removing the thermostat also affects the coolant flow through the engine. Since a correctly operating thermostat will not cause overheating, removing it gives no advantages, and several disadvantages.

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Macbeast

posted on 19/5/08 at 06:07 PM Reply With Quote
Simplest thing is to loop hose from water pump to manifold. People have said that if there is no flow in manifold there will be uneven cooling.
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jacko

posted on 19/5/08 at 06:17 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by MikeRJ
quote:
Originally posted by jacko

Hi i dont have a stat fitted its been like that for 4 + years and runs at 85dgs


It may run at 85 degrees at one perticular ambient temperature but without some form of thermostatic control the engines temperature will vary up and down with ambient (even if your gauge doesn't show it).

Removing the thermostat also affects the coolant flow through the engine. Since a correctly operating thermostat will not cause overheating, removing it gives no advantages, and several disadvantages.



OK i see what you are saying but if it has been ok for 4+ years and nothing has gone wrong what is the problem i get the engine to running temp before driving it

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