alistairolsen
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| posted on 12/8/08 at 06:54 AM |
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volvo T5 engine (1995) wiring
Has anyone fitted one of these? or the n/a derivative from the 850?
Im just wondering how much of a mare the wiring will be, and how much I need to keep by way of the clockset, abs ecu etc.....
cheers
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matt_claydon
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| posted on 12/8/08 at 07:26 AM |
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Yep, just done it myself. Don't need anything except the engine loom and all sensors/actuators and the ECU. No need for clocks, ignition barrel
etc as there is no imobiliser in the ECU.
I've got a feeling my ECU is restricting boost due to a lack of road-speed sensor input, but if that is the problem I'll get round it with
a signal generator of some sort.
Edit: Mine's a '94 I think, but I don't think thay changed anything from 94-95.
[Edited on 12/8/08 by matt_claydon]
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alistairolsen
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| posted on 12/8/08 at 08:49 AM |
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happy days!
bloke I know is doing an aui v8 transplant and needs the igition barell and key, clockset, ecu, seperate immob ecu and even at that half the wiring
will need replaced to avoid having to use the original fusebox!
so with the T5 you have the engine loom to the ecu, and then what? live, neutral, rev counter feed, ignition live, fuel pump feed and not much
else?
cheers
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matt_claydon
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| posted on 12/8/08 at 08:54 AM |
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The engine loom has two white connectors and a black one. The white ones go into the ECU and the black one has 'vehicle loom' connections
like ignition live, reverse light, and some others I can't remember. There are other outputs like rev counter etc but I've just connected
my rev counter to the coil as the signal from the ecu is Volvo specific.
The volvo ecu fuel pump output is a special signal, so you either need the fuel pump 'relay' from the donor, or do your own fuel pump
control. For safety it's best to use the Volvo relay so that the pump stops if the engine does.
I have the complete pin-out and wiring diagram for the engine loom/ecu which I'll attach below. THe black connector is not shown, but the wires
are there. You can work out what's what from the wire colours.
[Edited on 12/8/08 by matt_claydon]
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matt_claydon
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| posted on 12/8/08 at 08:55 AM |
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Pin allocation:
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alistairolsen
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| posted on 12/8/08 at 09:14 AM |
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excellent. PDFs arent playing ball at work so I will have a look later on.
wiring sounds simple enough tho, Ive done vauxhall xe's etc before and this sounds remarkably similar!
cheers Matt
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coozer
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| posted on 12/8/08 at 10:42 AM |
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Junk the wiring and go bike carbs and Megajolt.
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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matt_claydon
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| posted on 12/8/08 at 10:43 AM |
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With a turbo? I'd like to see the plumbing for that 
(Yes, I know it can be done, but what's the point when you can have the best part of 300bhp and great driveability and fuel economy on the
standard TB and ECU?)
[Edited on 12/8/08 by matt_claydon]
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Benzine
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| posted on 12/8/08 at 11:07 AM |
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I'm trying to work out my starter/solenoid wiring at the mo on my volvo engine 
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alistairolsen
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| posted on 12/8/08 at 11:14 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by coozer
Junk the wiring and go bike carbs and Megajolt.
soo, bin nice factory efi that passed all emissions regs and makes 225bhp and replace it with some nasty carbs? Ill pass thanks!
benzine, surely you need a big earth to the block, bit live to the starter solenoid and then a small trigger wire from the ign switch to the solenoid?
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Benzine
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| posted on 12/8/08 at 11:36 AM |
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I've got the earth sorted. There are 2 terminals on the starter, not sure which to use
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alistairolsen
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| posted on 12/8/08 at 11:49 AM |
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test for electrical continuity between them, you might find one is meant to go to the battery and one to the alternator and both are in fact +ve.
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Benzine
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| posted on 12/8/08 at 11:52 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by alistairolsen
test for electrical continuity between them
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alistairolsen
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| posted on 12/8/08 at 11:55 AM |
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ok so youve done that..... 
at this piint I would probably start shorting things out with a screw driver to see what worked (briefly) so Im gonna shut up before I get you killed
lol
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matt_claydon
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| posted on 12/8/08 at 12:12 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Benzine
I've got the earth sorted. There are 2 terminals on the starter, not sure which to use
Two in addition to the fat screw for the battery live? If so I'd just try shorting them both to the live terminal and see which makes the
starter engage.
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Benzine
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| posted on 12/8/08 at 12:18 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by matt_claydon
quote:
Originally posted by Benzine
I've got the earth sorted. There are 2 terminals on the starter, not sure which to use
Two in addition to the fat screw for the battery live? If so I'd just try shorting them both to the live terminal and see which makes the
starter engage.
I'll just go take a pic. brb!
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Benzine
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| posted on 12/8/08 at 12:25 PM |
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No 3 is a spade connector
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matt_claydon
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| posted on 12/8/08 at 12:39 PM |
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2 goes straight to battery positive terminal using a big fat wire. 3 goes to the sprung 'start' position on the ignition switch.
When you apply 12v to terminal 3 the solenoid activates, throwing the pinion gear forward and connecting 2 and 1 together to make the motor spin.
Should be exactly the same as your old Pinto.
[Edited on 12/8/08 by matt_claydon]
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coozer
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| posted on 12/8/08 at 01:13 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by alistairolsen
quote:
Originally posted by coozer
Junk the wiring and go bike carbs and Megajolt.
soo, bin nice factory efi that passed all emissions regs and makes 225bhp and replace it with some nasty carbs? Ill pass thanks!
Nasty carbs?? not as nasty as EFI! It is the easy option for just as much power.
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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Benzine
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| posted on 12/8/08 at 01:39 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by matt_claydon
2 goes straight to battery positive terminal using a big fat wire. 3 goes to the sprung 'start' position on the ignition switch.
When you apply 12v to terminal 3 the solenoid activates, throwing the pinion gear forward and connecting 2 and 1 together to make the motor spin.
2 - big fat wire to battery +ve - check
The only way I seem to get any life is having another red wire (thick but not as thick as battery) so terminal 2 and a blue/black thin wire to
terminal 1. That makes the starter spin but not engage.
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alistairolsen
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| posted on 12/8/08 at 02:39 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by coozer
quote:
Originally posted by alistairolsen
quote:
Originally posted by coozer
Junk the wiring and go bike carbs and Megajolt.
soo, bin nice factory efi that passed all emissions regs and makes 225bhp and replace it with some nasty carbs? Ill pass thanks!
Nasty carbs?? not as nasty as EFI! It is the easy option for just as much power.
properly setup ITBs will always beat individual choke carbs if both are tuned with the same in mind (power, economy, whatever)
a single Tb EFI system will always hammer a large single carb into the ground too.
Bike carbs are a cheap route to almost Tb like performance if you bin efi I agree, but then MS and bike Tb's is better still.
Anyway, largely irelevant as it has a nice TD04 to overcome the restriction
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Chippy
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| posted on 12/8/08 at 02:41 PM |
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In your photo you do not seem to have a nut on No1 if the wire already on that is not making a good contact then the solonoid (sp) will not make
contact to the starter. Put a nut and spring washer on and tighten it, then 2 to batt+ and 3 to ign start poss. on ign. sw. If that doesn't work
then your solonoid is stuffed. Cheers Ray
To make a car go faster, just add lightness. Colin Chapman - OR - fit a bigger engine. Chippy
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alistairolsen
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| posted on 12/8/08 at 02:41 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Benzine
quote:
Originally posted by matt_claydon
2 goes straight to battery positive terminal using a big fat wire. 3 goes to the sprung 'start' position on the ignition switch.
When you apply 12v to terminal 3 the solenoid activates, throwing the pinion gear forward and connecting 2 and 1 together to make the motor spin.
2 - big fat wire to battery +ve - check
The only way I seem to get any life is having another red wire (thick but not as thick as battery) so terminal 2 and a blue/black thin wire to
terminal 1. That makes the starter spin but not engage.
so you have a positive feed to the motor itself, and an earth to the case.
if its spinning and not engaging then the solenoid isnt being powered, which also means you arent providing power thru the solenoid, but rather thru
this additional cable you are using.
I cant see the pic at work unfortunately.
there should be the main motor body, and then a smaller cylinder that the solenoid.
Id expect the ignition feed (small wire from ign switch) and the big +ve from the battery to both go to this solenoid.
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coozer
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| posted on 12/8/08 at 02:45 PM |
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properly setup ITBs will always beat individual choke carbs if both are tuned with the same in mind (power, economy, whatever)
a single Tb EFI system will always hammer a large single carb into the ground too.
Bike carbs are a cheap route to almost Tb like performance if you bin efi I agree, but then MS and bike Tb's is better still.
Oh, by the way, what is all that based on?
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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Benzine
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| posted on 12/8/08 at 02:53 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Chippy
In your photo you do not seem to have a nut on No1 if the wire already on that is not making a good contact then the solonoid (sp) will not make
contact to the starter. Put a nut and spring washer on and tighten it, then 2 to batt+ and 3 to ign start poss. on ign. sw. If that doesn't work
then your solonoid is stuffed. Cheers Ray
yeah I've been using nuts, I just took everything off to take a pic
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