JONBEE
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 posted on 6/10/08 at 07:16 PM |
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WANTED: 16V A+ SERIES BUDGET INFO.
Hi ladies & gents,
i've been looking at the 16v conversion options for the A series engine.
HOW MUCH!!!!! £6K done, or £3k for parts!!
The car is not worth anywhere near that.
But i like something different.
Anybody got any info on the scrapyard / breakers conversion for a 16v A+ series 1275.
i emphasise A series. no rover k 1.4,1.6, 1.8 , or zetec etc.
Thankyou
Jon
NB: now i'm staying with the A series in the moggie, i have a MT75 rwd gearbox from a 1990 2.0 dohc sierra. mileage is unknown, but was told it
was very good when recently purchased. £40 ovno or will do a deal with a low mileage 1300 maestro engine, preferably with the ancillaries.
message me if interested, and i'll return my contact number, unless i can call you.
thankyou
Jon
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owelly
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| posted on 6/10/08 at 07:18 PM |
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Hows about the 16 head off a BMW motory bike? Seems a popular conversion.
http://www.ppcmag.co.uk
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Humbug
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| posted on 6/10/08 at 07:24 PM |
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Haven't we already had this discussion (or one very similar)?
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=97862
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JONBEE
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| posted on 6/10/08 at 07:41 PM |
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WANTED: 16V A+ SERIES BUDGET INFO
The £3k, £6k option is for the bmw k1100/k1200 option from well known tuning shops (minis)
slightly cheaper for 8V !
I have short arms and very deep pockets , with very little in the pockets.
More info if you can please.
Ta
Jon
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NigeEss
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| posted on 6/10/08 at 07:41 PM |
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Mate of mine is going the BMW head route.
Head from a K100RS (ideally as it's got long duration cams) try this place for one Motorworks
IIRC about £350 for all you need head, TB's etc.
And this place Specialist Components for everything else.
HTH
Nige
Edit to add.......
If you do a lot of the work and source fabrication etc it can be done for much less than 3K
[Edited on 6/10/08 by NigeEss]
Time is an illusion. Lunchtime doubly so.................Douglas Adams.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 7/10/08 at 12:01 PM |
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Fine if you are building an engine to fit in a particular class ie some of the Mini classes where you have to retain the Min block and transmission
but totally crazy for any other purpose.
Of course you would have to spend money on the bottom end to make it cope with the RPM a 16valve heads needs to produce decent power ---
If you look around there is a lot of more conventional A series tunning gear to be found -- you never know you might find an 8 port Arden head.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 7/10/08 at 01:31 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
Fine if you are building an engine to fit in a particular class ie some of the Mini classes where you have to retain the Min block and transmission
but totally crazy for any other purpose.
A lot of work certainly, but I don't think it's totally crazy. To get significantly more than a genuine 100bhp with a 5 port head you
really start sacrificing driveability, idle quality, economy etc. An engine swap is a lot of work with custom driveshafts, subframes, often bodywork
mods etc.
The bottom end of a 1275 is pretty strong anyway, the Metro Turbo in standard form was safe to 7000RPM for brief periods as advised by the handbook.
With a center main strap and shot peened rods etc. the bottom end can be made very robust.
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iank
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| posted on 7/10/08 at 03:24 PM |
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Here's a DIY guide to the BWM head conversion, the only 'cheap' option.
http://www.miniman.com.au/bmw.htm
The KAD or JKD heads are both insane money.
On the whole doing DIY subframe mods to fit a 1.3 Nissan Micra engine (with a good intake/exhaust it makes Suzuki GTi power) will be cheaper, lighter
and give you a 5 speed gearbox.
See here ->
http://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=57644&st=0
--
Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.
Anonymous
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