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Author: Subject: Adjusting the clutch biting point on an R1 engine
sonic

posted on 20/10/08 at 09:31 PM Reply With Quote
Adjusting the clutch biting point on an R1 engine

Hello all

Finally got the car running

The clutch is biting right at the top of its travel,is this normal can it be adjusted or do i just have to get used to it.

Its my first bike engined car and i don't know if its adjustable

thanks

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smart51

posted on 20/10/08 at 09:39 PM Reply With Quote
Everything is adjustable. Are you using a cable? move the mounting point of the cable outer further away from the clutch arm. There's often a screw adjuster on the cable or there is a rose joint that can be adjusted on the pedal.

It is best to fix the cable as close as you can to the pivot point of the clutch pedal. This will give a bit more feel to the clutch, making it easier to use.

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Paul TigerB6

posted on 20/10/08 at 09:40 PM Reply With Quote
You can adjust it on the clutch cable adjuster. I take it you have a couple of inches threaded with 2 lock nuts at one end of the cable?? The clutch is disengaging as soon as you press the pedal so you want to slacken off the cable
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sonic

posted on 20/10/08 at 09:45 PM Reply With Quote
Hi thanks for the replies

When the cable is disconnected the lever is in the rest position,if i connect the cable it is still in the rest position with the threaded part of the adjuster fully backed off,so the only way is tighter which will start to pull the lever

Ant ideas?

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Paul TigerB6

posted on 20/10/08 at 09:59 PM Reply With Quote
There's a little dimple and pointer on the lever - these need to be properly set up as per the manual. Might need to have a look at this again. 001Ben's car had is baffled for an hour on the same problem
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nitram38

posted on 20/10/08 at 10:20 PM Reply With Quote
I have gone for a total redesign of the R1 clutch and converted to hydraulic.
There is freeplay in the clutch arm which needs to be taken up before the clutch operates. This is because your hand needs some advantage when you pull in the clutch on the bike.
I worked out the max travel of my slave cylinder and extended the clutch arm so that my clutch will work throughout the range of the clutch slave travel. I removed the freeplay first.
Because I have used a wilwood master/slave set up, hopefully my foot pedal will give me a longer clutch instead of just on/off. The slave is a pull type not push.

If you do not go the hydraulic route, at least my photos might help with some ideas on how to increase your pedal range.

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[Edited on 20/10/2008 by nitram38]






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MikeRJ

posted on 22/10/08 at 01:07 PM Reply With Quote
It looks like that slave cylinder is on back to front, i.e. the whole slave will be moving (including the hydraulic pipes when connected) rather than just the piston and linkage. Or was that intentional?
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