sonic
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| posted on 21/10/08 at 09:35 PM |
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R1 clutch biting point?
Hello all
This is my first bike engined car and i am trying to figure out the correct biting point for the clutch.
My R1 engine seems to have nothing from the floor as you release it all happens in the last inch or so is that normal?
I have had plenty of bikes but its a totally differant think when your using your foot to operate it.
Also i wrapped my headers today with the heat wrap and they smoke like they are burning something off is this normal?
I thought the engine was on fire!!!!!!!!
Thanks
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nitram38
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| posted on 21/10/08 at 09:54 PM |
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Why are you starting another thread on the same one you started already? R1 Clutch
thread
Don't you trust what you have already been told?
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sonic
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| posted on 21/10/08 at 10:03 PM |
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wooooooo down boy no need to get your pipes in a twist,
I have spent all night messing with cables etc as per the good advice on here and doesnt seem to have made much differance apart from travel at the
pedal,still biting at the end just wondered if it was normal.
Thanks
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nitram38
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| posted on 21/10/08 at 10:41 PM |
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If you read your original thread, the answer is there.............
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adithorp
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| posted on 21/10/08 at 10:53 PM |
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On the bike it should be adjusted to give 10-15mm of free play at the end of the(hand) lever. Given that there's not a lot of range (40-50mm ?)
at the lever thats quite a lot. Make sure you have free play at the pedal.
You also need to adjust/alter the pedal leverage. Modify the pedal so that the cable connection is as close as possible to the pivot.
The down side is a very light clutch (pedal return spring helps). Up side is a reasonably controlable clutch as opposed to a binary one; either on or
off. My bite point is about halfway up.
adrian
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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antonio
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| posted on 22/10/08 at 05:59 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by sonic
Hello all
This is my first bike engined car and i am trying to figure out the correct biting point for the clutch.
My R1 engine seems to have nothing from the floor as you release it all happens in the last inch or so is that normal?
I have had plenty of bikes but its a totally differant think when your using your foot to operate it.
Also i wrapped my headers today with the heat wrap and they smoke like they are burning something off is this normal?
I thought the engine was on fire!!!!!!!!
Thanks
heat wrap always smeel bad when they are new IMHO. fitted some in a few cars, took a few days to get rid off the smelling
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smart51
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| posted on 22/10/08 at 06:56 AM |
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You should adjust the cable until it is right. You should also check that the clutch are lines up with the clutch cover. There is a dot on one of
them and a triangle on the other. When fitted together, these should line up.
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sonic
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| posted on 22/10/08 at 07:28 AM |
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Thanks everybody
I must say i was suprised how much the heat wrap smoked,thought something had caught fire.
Both points on the lever line up and i have some free play at the pedal end,i have also reduced the amount of travel on the pedal which i think was
part of the problem.
Cheers
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Dangle_kt
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| posted on 22/10/08 at 11:10 AM |
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Sounds obvious but have you adjusted the cable at the engine end? On most bikes there is a fixing braket with two nits either side, and you adjust it
with them. If I was trying to alter my biting point on a bike that is where I would start. You are running the risk of the clutch not fully engaging
if the bite is too close to the end of the travel.
In a BEC a slipping clutch is really not what you need.
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Dangle_kt
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| posted on 22/10/08 at 11:13 AM |
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Just read your other thread. Seems my suggestion has been covered.
If the cable is still slack when the cable adjuster is fully wound out, then have you considered you might not have the right cable length? Sheath
sound right, but the internal cable might be a shade too long?
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smart51
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| posted on 22/10/08 at 11:53 AM |
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Handy Hint: Make a pedal stop. I didn't and when I pushed the pedal all the way in, I popped the R1 clutch spring inside out. No clutch. I
used a big coach bolt with a round head and 2 nuts either side of the bulk head. Adjust the length of the bolt inside to that the clutch can be fully
opened but not much more.
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