This is my first kit build and therefore my first floor fixing attempt. I've done some searching on here and there appears to be no right or wrong way but many variations to suit the different cars and uses.
My car's a Haynes that's getting a BMW M52 for road and track and I'm not aiming for ultimate lightness but do want to get this right as it's my @rse sat on it.
I've got a load of steel panels free from work so am going to use this. It's about 1.2mm thick and has what looks like powder coating on it. I've decided to bond and rivet rather than weld, I think. Bond with sikaflex or tigerseal and rivet with 4mm stainless rivets (4.0mm or 4.2mm drill?) at 50mm spacing?
I was thinking off welding in a 25x3mm bar across for the seats front mounting bolts to prevent any flex, or is that total overkill?
The chassis currently has a red oxide primer on it that was put on for while it was stored. Should I clean back to bare metal before bonding it? Leave as is? Or paint it first? I think I'll leave the coating on the steel panel, seems daft to remove that?

Thanks in advance,
Nick

i have just been through the same process, after asking lots on different forums and looking at a couple i opted to weld a steel floor in, yes it makes it heavier but the chassis is much more rigid, when you look at the haynes design there is lots of triangulation front and back and even across the way but the middle seating area seems weak to me. i have a one piece floor right across the tunnel as well

If you are not to bothered about weight i would use what you have and fit is as you say as for paint if the chassis is not rusty jjust give it a light rub [ not though the paint ]and bond and rivet
Also put a bead of sealer round the inside to stop water getting between chassis and floor

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Originally posted by hizzi
i have just been through the same process, after asking lots on different forums and looking at a couple i opted to weld a steel floor in, yes it makes it heavier but the chassis is much more rigid, when you look at the haynes design there is lots of triangulation front and back and even across the way but the middle seating area seems weak to me. i have a one piece floor right across the tunnel as well

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Is this the same as Tiger Seal?

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p67949

I've just this minute finished fixing the floor to my Tiger. Silkaflex along chassis rails and Rivets every 40 - 50mm depending on chassis position, leaving the outer rails with just a couple of rivets and a few clamps (will be riveted alond this edge when the body goes on).

Settled on a single welded in brace at the front of the seats to prevent any potential flexing in the middle of the floor and protect the leading edge of my arse!!



One floor panel cut to size, just waiting for the 4mm stainless rivets to arrive-

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Originally posted by Nickp
Is this the same as Tiger Seal?

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p67949

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This is the floor of my tiger.

[img][/img]

I've got two across my chassis and it still boings a bit!

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Originally posted by Badger_McLetcher
I've got two across my chassis and it still boings a bit!

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Ok so the drivers side is in. Bonded, rivetted and a couple of extra m6 bolts towards the centre of the front seat bracing bar. It feels rock solid with no flexing or 'doinging' Now I'm happy with the result I'll crack on and do the other side the same.

This is how I've done mine.



Seat rails are 50mm x 4mm

[Edited on 1/7/15 by paulc]

[Edited on 1/7/15 by paulc]

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Originally posted by paulc
This is how I've done mine.



Seat rails are 50mm x 4mm

[Edited on 1/7/15 by paulc]

[Edited on 1/7/15 by paulc]

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Running the seat rails front to back rather than side to side gives the floor a bit more support ,especially when getting in and out of the car

Mark

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Originally posted by Nickp

Good work, looks very sturdy. I presume you're fitting an ally floor? I think I would've added more bracing if I was but mine seems plenty sturdy enough as it is now

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Ive just bought a chassis and bits to do a formula 27 and was wondering this my self. Is there any benefit in using 2 mm chequer plate instead of flat ali? I also guess its easier to fit floor first then cutout other panels put them to one side and build up suspension engine loom ect.
Thanks Mark