Hello everyone, I have been working on this for a while now. I thought I would share my progress so far.
This will use as much of the donor car as possible to keep the budget low. I am planning to use a Speeduino ECU. I am hoping to make/fabricate as much as possible of everything else. I am using the Saturn chassis plans.

I managed to pick up this sorry looking donor car as an MOT failure for practically nothing. I stripped it down for everything I needed and sold everything else. I managed to make enough money to buy the box section for the chassis later on.

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I weighed in the battery and picked up some scrap box section steel for my build table.



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The legs are bolted on with coach bolts. I'm hoping to store it if I decide to build a second one later on.
The top surface is just 6 pieces of chip board fixed with sheet metal screws. The build table is made from all scrap and cost me nothing in materials.

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After marking out the chassis dimensions I cut the base rails to length with an evolution chop saw. It makes a nice cut and needs minimal deburring with a file.

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Laying out the base rails and securing with wooden blocks.

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Jig for the front frame

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Front frame welded

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Front uprights in place. I know the driver side upright rail is in the wrong place. I moved it later on.

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Rest of the uprights in place

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Seat back rails in place

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Cutting the transmission tunnel rails. Some of these had angles on both sides, I clamped them into the chop saw with an angle to the base.

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Setting out the transmission tunnel

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And this is my progress up to today. I've been away all summer and annoyingly the chassis has a light coating of surface rust.

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Getting there slowly. The next step is to fully weld the chassis and cut the bars for the rear.
It is handy there is metal scrapyard next door that always has a big stockpile of aluminium and steel too.

Welcome to the group . Great progress. The light rust can often be cured with a dab of phosphoric acid which converts the rust to a black phosphate. Costs about £8 for a bottle from ebay. I used the wiring loom and ecu from the MX5 with mine and also used brake pedals and steering column as well so all the column switches etc.
Good luck and feel free to ask questions, someone will know the answer

Thank you. I will get some of that.
I didn't think of pedals, I'm not sure I kept them.

I stripped the car down ages ago before moving. The bits have been sat in a shed. It should be interesting to refurbish everything, the MX5 was on 180,000 miles!
The cost of a brake seal kit is almost as much as a whole refurbished caliper.

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Originally posted by Half Finished
The cost of a brake seal kit is almost as much as a whole refurbished caliper.

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They look really smart. I'll have a go with my calipers.

How long ago did I start this thread?! I have been making some progress again on this.


Cut the brackets from box section offcuts

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Started adding the rear bars. got this part jigged up and fully welded.

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Adding the wider section to accommodate the MX5 diff from the Saturn plans.

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More plates added.

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For the rear panel supports I made up a former. Clamped everything down and bent the two ends round with a bar.
Worked a treat. Even got the wife to help.

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And tacked in. The saturn plans don't have these but I'm going with the the aluminium bodywork.

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Even got my son helping out

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Next job wishbones. Parts arrived from thelatheman on ebay.

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I've also been looking at the best way to mount the diff. I will make up a nose mount bracket and polybush the top mounts.
I was sorting through the donor parts. It seems my drive shafts are properly stuck in the hubs. they are currently sitting up right with penetrating oil in the cup, hopefully they free up.

What clearance is best for the sump on these? Im using the MK2 1.8. I would prefer to not have the sump below the chassis rails.
Can I shorten the sump to the same height as the gearbox bellhousing and mount level?

I didn't shorten the sump on mine and ended up with 90mm clearance under the sump and 5 mm clearance under the Equinox bonnet. If yours is a VVTI engine I guess a bit of a bulge will be needed.

Got a bit more done on this today. Welded up the rear section and grinded down the top plates.

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Still need to weld the underside but happy with how this turned out.

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Tacked in the lower brackets

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and the top brackets

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And then welded both sides

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Making up a nose bracket for the diff is on the to-do-list. just waiting for poly bushes to arrive for the diff top mounts.
Bracket will bolt to top and bottom of diff and CP10/SB4

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I also had a chance to clean up and separate the donor parts. The brakes are definitely much newer than the rest of the car.
The rubber seals on them are actually OK. but one bleed nipple did snap off, I managed to weld on a nut and get it out.

Tomorrow's job is adding the front wishbone brackets.

I still need to make up the wishbones, I cut all of the wishbone plates from 5mm plate already.
I have all of the parts I need to get it rolling now, just as well because I lose the garage on the 5th May!

Does anyone want the build table?

So I moved and lost my garage since the last update. Everything has been sitting in a damp lockup since..

Recently got myself a new space with a 2 post lifter.


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More to follow.

Now I'm jealous

I recently picked this back up after being occupied with other projects. I had a check list of items to finish before paint that took ages.
I can see why so many of these projects ended up on eBay as unfinished projects..

Column supports

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Getting the engine aligned, I adjusted the bottom of the bellhousing to be level with the bottom chassis rails

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Gearbox support was tricky, there isn't any space above the gearbox. so the rubber bush slots in from the front.

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Engine mounts made up

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Seat supports and handbrake supports. The handbrake is a Sierra part offset to the side. I made up an adjustable link to go with the MX5 handbrake cables.

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Polo rad supports

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MX5 Column supports, with a small amount of adjustability.

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For the side supports I don't have a roll bender, this worked to form the steel bar around the side support plate.

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Side supports finished

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With the chassis finally finished I started prepping it for paint.

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Tools you wish you bought sooner...

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Before

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After.
I'm using POR15. This is after using the cleaner degreaser and then their metal etch.

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And after first coat of paint

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And second coat

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Next time, I'll just buy one.

Good progress, well done! Did you check the steering column for the sufficient angle deflection? Mine is pretty much the same as yours and it ended up perfectly in line, I had to move the middle bracket outwards to get more of an angle. It also has the added benefit of clearing the engine a little more.

Thanks for sharing, I enjoyed reading that.

I have some adjustment in the column left to right in the bottom mount.
If it's inline with the driver it's under 10 degrees, But it can be offset to meet the 10 degrees.

Great project.

Following with interest and great nostalgia!

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Originally posted by Half Finished
I have some adjustment in the column left to right in the bottom mount.
If it's inline with the driver it's under 10 degrees, But it can be offset to meet the 10 degrees.

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My next issue is the rear wishbones. The saturn plans have missing dimensions and I've been trawling through old posts to try and find a definitive answer. It seems others have ended up with excessive rear camber or adjusters wound too far out.

I really don't want to weld up a set only to find they are wrong. I'm going to reproduce the whole thing in CAD. I could even 3d print a set of wishbones to check the fit.

Great to see a build progressing! I'm not sure how many are even buying 1/2 built projects any more, seems fewer and fewer out there nowadays

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Originally posted by Half Finished
My next issue is the rear wishbones. The saturn plans have missing dimensions and I've been trawling through old posts to try and find a definitive answer. It seems others have ended up with excessive rear camber or adjusters wound too far out.

I really don't want to weld up a set only to find they are wrong. I'm going to reproduce the whole thing in CAD. I could even 3d print a set of wishbones to check the fit.

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Cheers Slimy38. I'm looking through old posts on here and the Haynes forum, I really can't make much sense of the measurements.

I've just made up the rear upper wishbone based on this Haynes forum post. I'm 3D printing it now so I can check the fit before I commit to welding anything.


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I've also just found this amazing 3d model of the hubs. This will make things easier.
MX5 Hubs

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Originally posted by Half Finished
Cheers Slimy38. I'm looking through old posts on here and the Haynes forum, I really can't make much sense of the measurements.

I've just made up the rear upper wishbone based on this Haynes forum post. I'm 3D printing it now so I can check the fit before I commit to welding anything.


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So after manipulating some free CAD models. I've made this.
It's wider than the previous drawings but then then the MK2 MX5 has a 10mm wider track, which adds to the confusion a bit.
I'm starting to make up my wishbones based on this.


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Edited to add a version corrected for ride height and -0.5 degrees camber:

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This link lets you open the model in a web browser and take your own measurements:
CAD File

sources:
https://grabcad.com/library/haynes-roadster-chassis
https://grabcad.com/library/mx-5-wheel-and-tire-1
https://grabcad.com/library/miata-nb-non-sport-disc-brake-assembly-1

[Edited on 6/5/23 by Half Finished]

[Edited on 6/5/23 by Half Finished]

I've been making some progress on this. It's almost a rolling chassis.

Floor cut out. I've left some additional material on the inside edges for some rivnuts. I'll add a removable cover here.

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Cleaned up the hubs. Ready for paint

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Offering up the rear wishbone to check the spacing. It looks good.
In the end I adjusted my last drawing slightly to -1 degree camber, with the adjusters on the lower wishbone I've got some adjustment for the camber.

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All 8 wishbones done.

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Next job is painting and assembly. I've got the wrong universal joint for the steering rack. My part is for a sierra but I need a group 4 / Escort short type. Does anyone have one or want to swap? A new one seems to be £60.

[Edited on 6/5/2023 by Half Finished]

[Edited on 6/5/2023 by Half Finished]

After a long few days in the garage, it's now a rolling chassis!

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Looks really good!

superb progress and a fantastic workshop

Thank you for the feedback.

Has anyone requested a VIN number from the DVLA recently? What's your experience been like?

I'm in the middle of paining the brake calipers right now. I'm also running the brake lines.

Unless I've missed it the IVA manual doesn't specify a fixing distance, is there a best practice for this?
Also, can I put the brake switch on a 4 way union in the rear? Most builds seem to include this in the front close to the master cylinder.
And lastly, do I need the MX5 bias valve? I'm not sure on the layout for this.

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Originally posted by Half Finished
I'm in the middle of paining the brake calipers right now. I'm also running the brake lines.

Unless I've missed it the IVA manual doesn't specify a fixing distance, is there a best practice for this?
Also, can I put the brake switch on a 4 way union in the rear? Most builds seem to include this in the front close to the master cylinder.
And lastly, do I need the MX5 bias valve? I'm not sure on the layout for this.

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Originally posted by Slimy38

I did my clips roughly six inches apart down the transmission tunnel, the other distances were more constrained by where the bends were going to be. The plan I used was that if they can move, they can fail. So at it went round the corner I would add an extra bracket.

I personally went for a pedal related brake switch as per the donor car. I'd heard some horror stories about trying to get a pressure based brake switch working, and I thought having the brake switch left at the pedal was going to be easier to set up.

The bias valve is an interesting one, here's my original question with a few answers;

https://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=211283

In the end I kept it;

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Does this help;




It was the loop back through the master cylinder that I could never figure out. If you just look at the valve first, you have one input (A), that goes to three outputs, front left, front right and rear. I don't know why the front left loops back through but I replicated it.

[Edited on 23-6-23 by Slimy38]

This post has an interesting solution to the brake switch;

https://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=200618

Thank you for the info, I'll see how far I get with it this weekend. I need to get the brakes working so I can get it down the ramp leading to the workshop.

I'm starting an expat job later this year. I've not worked out what to do with the chassis yet...

Just a quick update, I moved to Hungary since my last post and life has been manic!

I cleaned up the brakes and painted them with POR15 caliper paint. They look pretty good finished.

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My priority was getting the handbrake working, so that I could move the chassis without it crashing down a steep ramp from the garage.
This is a mix of Sierra and MX5 parts. I've got an issue with the cables fowling the chassis as they exit from the caliper, I still need to modify this.

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I hired a box trailer and drove a 3000(!) mile round trip.

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And the new garage even has a pit!

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I'm now looking at the parts needed to complete, I had a few questions if anyone knows and could help please?

-Fuel system, Am I best sticking with the MX5 sender or using an out of tank pump? I see that both variants of fuel tank are available.

-Brake lines, has anyone used the made to order parts from Hel Performance? The builder is slick and they are just £29.99 per line? available in Europe too
https://auto.helperformance.com/custom-car-braided-brake-lines

-Shocks and springs, based on other threads I'm going to get GAZ shocks, 14" open, 9.5" closed. with 8" x 250 lbs. & 8" x 350 lbs. springs.
-Are GAZ gold shocks worth the extra? and is there any appreciable difference between 1.9" or 2.25" springs?

-Bodywork, I'm going to get the full set from Equinox. But I've added the steel supports already at the back. Will I be able to fit the rear panel or will I be cutting stuff away?

[Edited on 9/22/2023 by Half Finished]

I need to update this post with some progress pictures. I've been living abroad for 3 years with work, but i head back to the UK in July.
I've actually submitted the an IVA application too, but I'm finding that the last 5% of jobs take as long as the first 95.
It's currently at running and driving stage, with interior and exterior panels trimmed.

First, I missed this bit before. I made up a flexible jig for the wishbone fabrication.
It's aluminium extrusion profile with t slots in a u-shape.

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The slots can be easily adjusted to accommodate and hold different sizes.

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This saved a bunch of time from fabricating individual jigs. And the wishbones were all the correct dimensions first time.

Then, I removed the engine and steam cleaned the whole thing.it had a catastrophic oil leak from the cylinder head cover and oil pump.
The engine is on 74000 miles and meticulously serviced, I have the complete service history.
I replaced every gasket and oil seal, including the valve stem oil seals. I left the bottom end alone.

Cleaning up,

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Ready for paint

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After painting. At this stage also fitted new gaskets and seals

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The ancillaries also a cleaned and painted

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Engine ready, gearbox also cleaned up.
Here the power steering and ac pumps also removed, with a shorter loop for the alternator belt.

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I picked up a fibreglass bodywork kit from Equinox too. The colour is Ral 4007 purple violet
Here it's just placed on. In this image ive also replaced the coil overs.

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I also welded up the pedal box with a plasma cut kit from Ebay,

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And trial the fit before paint. I made one mistake with not allowing space for a plastic shim washer.

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And after paint.

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I've since replaced the master cylinder and I found a garage invoice for new calipers in the onor logbook shortly before I stripped it.

[Edited on 29/5/26 by Half Finished]

For the flexible hoses I trialed a few layouts but settled on this one I ordered a custom brake hose from Hel performance, I would recommend them.
The fronts are 60cm long with a 70° 10mm banjo on one side and a fixed bulkhead male fitting on the other side.
I found that getting the brake lines to cross the steering axis point gave the most steering angle without binds.
I actually get full lock in the steering rack, so I don't even need any steering stops.


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And the rears, the brake line is ok but the handbrake is still a headache. I've actually started to reorientate the angle of the handbrake lever arm, so that it angles straight back

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Next up was the roll bar, I partially welded it and jigged up the rest directly on the car.
Dimensions as per the book.

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And after paint

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I still need to run a tap through the threaded inserts to clean up the paint.

I wanted to mount the battery at the back of the car but didn't want it getting contaminated from road use.
I mocked up panels in cardboard to box in the rear area , this is the first trial fit

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The panels themselves are quite complicated shapes with multiple bends in different directions.
These are brushed with a burnisher,

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And this is after bonding and riveting, I'm really pleased with how this turned out

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Next up was the fuel tank, pre filter, pump and post filter. Technically I am missing the fuel pulsation damper at the fuel rail side.
The engine runs a feed and return.

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Looks like a healthy amount of progress, great work! A few questions if you don't mind;

For the front brake lines, have you tried through vertical travel as well as full lock? It needs to be clear even when under full compression (which was really awkward for me)

Re Steering stops, I didn't need mine to cope with the brake lines, I put mine in because without them the car would go 'over centre' and suddenly start crawling sideways. The stops do limit the turning circle but also keep the car in the 'self centering' range.

Handbrake was really awkward for me too, and the only way I could get it to work is have the calipers upside down! I don't know whether you've now sorted your routing but have a look at putting them on upside down as it worked for me. One of the manufacturers also does it by default, the only issue is bleeding is 300% more difficult.

How did you burnish the panels? I have aluminium panels in mine that looked great when the film came off, but at some point they will need to be tidied up and I don't want them shiny from polishing. That burnished finish looks spot on.

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Originally posted by Slimy38
Looks like a healthy amount of progress, great work! A few questions if you don't mind;

For the front brake lines, have you tried through vertical travel as well as full lock? It needs to be clear even when under full compression (which was really awkward for me)

Re Steering stops, I didn't need mine to cope with the brake lines, I put mine in because without them the car would go 'over centre' and suddenly start crawling sideways. The stops do limit the turning circle but also keep the car in the 'self centering' range.

Handbrake was really awkward for me too, and the only way I could get it to work is have the calipers upside down! I don't know whether you've now sorted your routing but have a look at putting them on upside down as it worked for me. One of the manufacturers also does it by default, the only issue is bleeding is 300% more difficult.

How did you burnish the panels? I have aluminium panels in mine that looked great when the film came off, but at some point they will need to be tidied up and I don't want them shiny from polishing. That burnished finish looks spot on.

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Next up was fuel lines, these are 8mm copper pipe clipped into a 4 way plastic clip.
The clips are mounted to an extra aluminium angle in the transmission tunnel. Also the brake line is clipped in here.

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With that done. I could put the engine back in

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I had all sorts of headaches with clearances to the gearbox.
The clutch fork was too tight to the bulkhead and there is not enough clearance around the gearbox.

I actually cut off the edge of a surplus gearbox mount. In the mx5 this goes to a cross member that also bolts to the differential.
This was about half done before I took off some more.

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I shortened the prop shaft myself as i couldn't find any local suppliers, I don't expect it is particularly well balanced as quite a lot was cutaway.
I will replace this shortly. This is also a closer view of the fuel lines.

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For the electrical system I overlaid the entire harness down the side of the car to verify everything.
It fired up first time.

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First start was quite loud without the exhaust. And a few neighbours noticed.

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Next up i cut everything out of the main harness that wasn't required. So ABS and airbag modules cut out.
I also cut out every fuse box, and lighting circuit. As well as the main clocks.
I had planned to replace the main fuse box and use a mini PLC to control the lights.

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For making the electrical system back up I used this power distribution unit that a colleague made up.

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And with 3D printed case

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Printing the case in ASA high temperature filament was on the limit of my basic 3d printer

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The backside is just spade terminals, so the whole thing slides out of the case for access

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And installed in the car it looks like this, this replaces every Mazda fuse. There are inputs from the ECU for fuel pump and cooling fan.
And these miniature fuses from TE handle 40 amps and save a lot of space. the engine ECU is mounted underneath this aluminium panel.
Ive left the entire left side of the scuttle empty for future updates, maybe a heater matrix.

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And the other side has the high current power distribution. The main battery cable terminates here. With invidual fuses for the starter motor, alternator and fuse box.
This is before I tidied everything up, there are cables here for the front lights.

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For logic control I used these Barth mini PLC controllers. I found them on Ebay for a third of retail price as new old stock
There are two communicating via CAN bus.

The front has inputs from the switchgear, reverse switch and brake switch. I can also read out the speed signal to do flashing hazard / brake lights under heavy braking, but not currently enabled.
The controller in the rear is connected directly to the LED lights, it has power outputs that can drive them.
All of the logic is in place for the lights as well regarding fog lights and hazards
The front PLC is also controlling relays for the front headlights.

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The hazard button can wake the circuit from sleep, otherwise the standby current is zero
The PLC uses one output as a relay control for power supply enable.
And the key drives the relays in the ignition circuits.

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Because of the PLC, I can use any buttons. So these are miniature momentary buttons that do not switch any current.

Fog light button, the tell tale is illuminated on the switch and the Acewell Dash together.
Logic as per the IVA manual.

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And the hazard button. Because it's so slim, it fits into the steering binnacle.

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[Edited on 29/5/26 by Half Finished]

[Edited on 29/5/26 by Half Finished]

With the electrics done. I finalised the battery location. This is an aluminium tray.
I will add another fuse here too.

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Then I checked off a big list of jobs in order to get the engine up to temperature

I've taken almost a thousand photos, but i only have this picture of the exhaust:
It uses the standard MX-5 downpipe.
Then I have welded individual stainless steel sections to make a 2 to 1 collector
Then there is a link from that collector to the catalytic converter. This is actually welded from 3 sections and then ground down and polished back.
The exhaust can is a Westfield part.

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Cooling system. The expansion bottle is hidden away at the front but it's not great access with the nose cone in place. I will probably move it at some point
This is mounted to a removable bracket that also holds the double horn and the air intake.

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And running up the engine to temperature. The Acewell Dash is showing everything that it should and the cooling fan turns as it should
The idle is nice and low at base idle, around 600rpm.

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Next up was fibreglass, I covered everything in dust sheets and the dust still got everywhere.

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And this is the ultimate tool for cutting fibreglass, with a ceramic cutting blade.
It leaves a nice straight edge.

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I've trimmed all of the panels now and they are ready to bond on.
I had one issue with the side panels, they seemed to be too short and I had to cut away most of the bottom edge.

For the interior panels, I tidied up the cable conduits and clips in the transmission tunnel.
This should all be IVA compliant now.
The routing is a bit odd because there is no room above the gearbox around the gear shifter

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Interior panels are stainless steel.
Marking out and partial brushing

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After brushing and bending.

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And trial fit, I really like this finish. I'm going to bond it in to avoid rivets.

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And I finally added the headlight brackets.

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And that is now up to date. I will be at the national kit car show in Malvern show tomorrow, unfortunately without the car.
I am lookout for a few parts. I still need an aero screen and one or two other parts like trims.

And I will wait and see which test date I get for the IVA

Great stuff, that's a huge amount of progress! Your exhaust is almost identical to mine, even down to the location of the Cat. It works well there, although I put a heat shield between the cat and the bodywork. The passenger footwell still gets a bit warm even with the heatshield, but then mine is enclosed in bodywork as well which retains the heat. You should be ok with an exposed cat.

Where are you located, what will be your local IVA station?

Do you know if you're going for an age related plate? If so I'd recommend contacting Mazda for a 'proof of engine age' letter. It makes things really easy but because they come from Japan it can take a while before the letter gets back to you. Better to request it early so you're not waiting for bits of paper at the very last step.

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Originally posted by Half Finished

First start was quite loud without the exhaust. And a few neighbours noticed.

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I requested at Yeading, my local centre at Southampton had a note about not supporting vehicles with limited slip differentials.
I took an MK Indy to Yeading long ago as well.

I will go for an engine related plate. I'm actually using a mk2 mx5 donor for engine, gearbox, steering column and axles, which is an S reg.
The mk1 that I did strip down was just too high mileage and worn out.

Good hint with the proof of engine age letter with Mazda, do the DVLA need it?

[Edited on 29/5/26 by Half Finished]

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Originally posted by Half Finished
I requested at Yeading, my local centre at Southampton had a note about not supporting vehicles with limited slip differentials.
I took an MK Indy to Yeading long ago as well.

I will go for an engine related plate. I'm actually using a mk2 mx5 donor for engine, gearbox, steering column and axles, which is an S reg.
The mk1 that I did strip down was just too high mileage and worn out.

Good hint with the proof of engine age letter with Mazda, do the DVLA need it?

[Edited on 29/5/26 by Half Finished]

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IVA test date booked for July 31st!
I also picked up the last few trims and pieces I needed from the Malvern show. Now, I've got a list of jobs to check off, including mounting all of the panels I've already trimmed down.
I even picked up a trailer recently from the Isle of Wight!

[Edited on 2/6/26 by Half Finished]

Now just 7 weeks until the IVA. For this weekend I'm hoping to get the rest of the bodywork on.
I already bonded the sides on and also some of the interior panels. I really like the stainless steel finish.

I had an issue with the Equinox panels not being tall enough to clear the floor panels and rivets,
so I've had to trim away most of the bottom edge.

It also just fits onto the trailer with not much room to spare. And I think I'll have to back the car on to get the hitch weight correct.

I'll also have to replace the copper fuel lines with cunifer as I noticed the fuel in the tank has turned green. Those parts are on order and on the to do list.

The aspect ratio is skewed here, right click and show image in new tab should fix it, unless anyone knows a fix for portrait images?

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Originally posted by Half Finished
Now just 7 weeks until the IVA. For this weekend I'm hoping to get the rest of the bodywork on.
I already bonded the sides on and also some of the interior panels. I really like the stainless steel finish.

I had an issue with the Equinox panels not being tall enough to clear the floor panels and rivets,
so I've had to trim away most of the bottom edge.

It also just fits onto the trailer with not much room to spare. And I think I'll have to back the car on to get the hitch weight correct.

I'll also have to replace the copper fuel lines with cunifer as I noticed the fuel in the tank has turned green. Those parts are on order and on the to do list.

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