matt_gsxr
|
| posted on 29/12/10 at 11:25 PM |
|
|
Welding exhaust to flange
hi there,
Any tips on how to weld exhaust pipes (1.6mm stainless tube) to a 12mm stainless flange? Its for a turbo.
I can join the tube together alright (a bit ugly but penetrations seems okay), but not sure how I should deal with the thick flange.
Welder is a clarke 110e, and I've got 0.8mm stainless wire and Halfords disposable Argon.
I am new to welding, so please be gentle.
Thanks,
Matt
|
|
|
|
|
Ben_Copeland
|
| posted on 29/12/10 at 11:35 PM |
|
|
Tack it and get someone to TIG it, results will be much better
Ben
Locost Map on Google Maps
Z20LET Astra Turbo, into a Haynes
Roadster
Enter Your Details Here
http://www.facebook.com/EquinoxProducts for all your bodywork needs!
|
|
|
matt_gsxr
|
| posted on 29/12/10 at 11:38 PM |
|
|
Ben,
Do you mean it will end up prettier, or will it be functionally superior.
I don't mind a bit of grinding to tidy it up.
It seems a bit defeatist
Matt
|
|
|
RazMan
|
| posted on 29/12/10 at 11:41 PM |
|
|
Personally I would do as Ben suggested. I have MIG'd manifolds before and now I always find someone to TIG them for me. The whole job will be
stronger, less likely to warp or crack and look 10 times better.
Try and make a welding template too - thick as you like to prevent warping.
[Edited on 29-12-10 by RazMan]
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
|
|
|
Ben_Copeland
|
| posted on 29/12/10 at 11:44 PM |
|
|
As per Raz, it'll be a much better job all round.
Ben
Locost Map on Google Maps
Z20LET Astra Turbo, into a Haynes
Roadster
Enter Your Details Here
http://www.facebook.com/EquinoxProducts for all your bodywork needs!
|
|
|
mark chandler
|
| posted on 29/12/10 at 11:45 PM |
|
|
Current at maximum and work from the thick stuff to the thin, 110 amps is not very much power so go slowly!
Also work out you assembly, make sure that you do not end up with impossible welds by starting at the wrong point
|
|
|
matt_gsxr
|
| posted on 29/12/10 at 11:46 PM |
|
|
Sounds like I should have posted this question before I started MIGing it.
Never mind.
Thanks for the advice guys. Anyone good at TIG in the Oxfordshire area? Don't mind going a bit further. I would want to pay for the work,
but would prefer "while you wait" as I am impatient.
Matt
|
|
|
snapper
|
| posted on 29/12/10 at 11:52 PM |
|
|
Would worth bolting the flange flat to stop distortion, won't seal if the flange warps due to welding heat
I eat to survive
I drink to forget
I breath to pi55 my ex wife off (and now my ex partner)
|
|
|
matt_gsxr
|
| posted on 30/12/10 at 12:14 AM |
|
|
Regarding the warping of the flange.
I was planning on getting it machined flat after it was all welded up, that was why I went with 12mm to give a bit spare.
It is a very simple little manifold, 5 joints and then the merge and flange.
Anyway, here is a photo.
The flange welds on to the point where the 4 pipes all come together. The lengths are not equal, but neither is the manifold that Big-CC sell for the
gsxr1000, so I am not too worried about that and they are similar in length (except 1 and 4).
The good thing is that there are not many welds and its all pretty open. Lots of grinding to do within the collector area too, but it keeps me out of
the house!
Matt
[Edited on 30/12/10 by matt_gsxr]
|
|
|
ashg
|
| posted on 30/12/10 at 07:33 AM |
|
|
Max setting, wire feed not too high. Focus the weld on the flange and gently touch in the pipe. It's tricky with the MIG not impossible. The
biggest challenge is.that you are welding 12mm to 1.6mm nothing else. It's much easier with a tig as you have more time, if you know someone
with a tig it would be worth tacking it up and having a nice job made of it.
Anything With Tits or Wheels Will cost you MONEY!!
Haynes Roadster (Finished)
Exocet (Finished & Sold)
New Project (Started)
|
|
|
James
|
| posted on 30/12/10 at 05:45 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by snapper
Would worth bolting the flange flat to stop distortion, won't seal if the flange warps due to welding heat
I had that problem.
I had 4 individual small flanges and they warped.
I ended up making another single four hole flange and welding mine to that one... double flange! 
Basically a total pigs ear and it's one of the job 'on the list'. Well, it was till my SS manifold and silencer got nicked! 
Cheers,
James
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
|
|
|
matt_gsxr
|
| posted on 31/12/10 at 12:17 AM |
|
|
That sounds like a pain.
Mine is simpler it is a bike engine, so separate flanges for each exhaust port. These flanges are not actually welded to the pipes.
The problem flange is for the turbo, its pretty chunky but I will bolt it to something to keep it rigid.
Thanks for all the help guys,
Matt
|
|
|
matt_gsxr
|
| posted on 2/1/11 at 12:10 PM |
|
|
Update:
When people ask for advice, why don't they take it???? well in my case I had gone to far already, and I don't know anyone who can tig
local to me.
The good news is that when the 12mm turbo flange distorts you can "machine" is back to flat using the flat face of a grinding wheel
mounted in an angle grinder (remove the guard, wear gloves)
The bad news is I am a rubbish welder. Don't try to learn to weld on a manifold.
It has been an interesting challenge though.
Do's and don't of making a turbo manifold.
Do:
Draw up flanges in CadStd and get them made by andyw7de
Ask andy to supply a few offcuts of the same stuff to sort settings
Butt weld the pipes
Get a B&D power file and loads of belts
Get a new angle grinder because your last one broke
Think about how you are going to do all the welds
Tack it and then get someone to Tig it!
Don't
Try to learn welding on a manifold
Start welding (beyond little tacks) before finishing off all the pipes, as its difficult to get access later on.
Overlap pipes, well it seems to work, but looks rubbish
Think that welding is easy
Weld it when it isn't clamped up, as it will distort
I've still got a few holes (in the merge), but hopefully I can bodge that together. Then I can watch it all crack when I put it on the car!
Its all about the journey!
Matt
|
|
|
RazMan
|
| posted on 2/1/11 at 10:22 PM |
|
|
Well done Matt - they say that the best way to find out how to do something is to do it yourself. Next time around you will almost certainly do it
another way but hey ho, that's experience for you  I hope it all holds together for you mate 
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
|
|
|
AvonZX9R
|
| posted on 3/1/11 at 10:37 AM |
|
|
Exactly Matt, my first exhaust welding experience taught me mostly 'Donts' rather than 'Dos'. I made a full exhaust system for
my old Toyota Supra from 2.5" mild steel - using a stick welder!!!! The joints ended up being strong and have lasted for years but look like
they have been made using some kind of modern art experiment (ish!!). At least the welds are hidden away under the chassis.
I am about to attempt a new exhaust for my Avon and will be taking all of the advice on the above posts - cheers guys.
|
|
|
