richard thomas
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| posted on 15/8/15 at 08:49 PM |
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Chassis undercoat recommendations?
Hallo all, been a while 
Quick question, can anyone recommend a good underbody stonechip/sealer/similar that can be overpainted nicely with top coat? I was thinking of any old
stonechip, but would prefer a smooth finish if possible? Not sure if POR 15 can be successfully over painted, but from memory it's absolutely
brilliant?
It's for a new project that isn't particularly 'locostbuilders' as such, but I've been out of the scene for a couple of
years and aware that things might have moved on since I had my finger in the game
Ta, Rich.
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 15/8/15 at 09:32 PM |
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POR15 can be over painted , certainly with Hardnose paint from Frost's. My chassis has been done for 6 years since stripping off the crap powder
coating and is as good as the day I painted it
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richard thomas
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| posted on 15/8/15 at 10:11 PM |
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Thanks Mel, you're a star Does it finish nice and smooth brushed on, and would I need to etch prep bare metal before application? I know that
it is recommended, but I am tight
I was thinking of finding out who did powder coating for Luego and getting that done there - just in case I get bored in a couple of months time with
a pocket full of wire brush wheels going spare....but thought better of it 
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coozer
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| posted on 15/8/15 at 10:13 PM |
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I did mine with hempathane. Its used on oil rigs boats and other extreme marine places..
Been on 2 years now and still looks brand new.
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 15/8/15 at 10:34 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by richard thomas
Thanks Mel, you're a star Does it finish nice and smooth brushed on, and would I need to etch prep bare metal before application? I know that
it is recommended, but I am tight
I was thinking of finding out who did powder coating for Luego and getting that done there - just in case I get bored in a couple of months time with
a pocket full of wire brush wheels going spare....but thought better of it
Dries to a pretty smooth finish even when brush painted . Didn't need to etch prime but was prepared as Frost's instructions , one of the
items I used was Metal Ready? I gave my chassis 2 coats of POR15 the first was silver followed by brown (easy to see which parts had been done) then
top coated with Hardnose which is available in several colours . All done in a lock up in cold weather using a propane heater so less than perfect
conditions but still a good finish, infinetly better than Luego's powder coating
What are you building now? Mel
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richard thomas
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| posted on 15/8/15 at 10:44 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
quote:
Originally posted by richard thomas
Thanks Mel, you're a star Does it finish nice and smooth brushed on, and would I need to etch prep bare metal before application? I know that
it is recommended, but I am tight
I was thinking of finding out who did powder coating for Luego and getting that done there - just in case I get bored in a couple of months time with
a pocket full of wire brush wheels going spare....but thought better of it
Dries to a pretty smooth finish even when brush painted . Didn't need to etch prime but was prepared as Frost's instructions , one of the
items I used was Metal Ready? I gave my chassis 2 coats of POR15 the first was silver followed by brown (easy to see which parts had been done) then
top coated with Hardnose which is available in several colours . All done in a lock up in cold weather using a propane heater so less than perfect
conditions but still a good finish, infinetly better than Luego's powder coating
What are you building now? Mel
Was hoping to be able to top coat in the same paint as the body......not sure what I am using yet.....
I'm restoring a VW beetle.......bit shabby compared to the builds on this site admittedly......mainly for the reason that I took redundancy
earlier this year and am considering going into business doing a bit of car tinkering stuff....thought a nicely restored bug would be an advertisement
for capabilities.......and my youngest son gets to learn basic mechanics as a plus.......
Hence I need a nice finish underneath that has nice paint, but can be used also.....
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richard thomas
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| posted on 15/8/15 at 10:45 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by coozer
I did mine with hempathane. Its used on oil rigs boats and other extreme marine places..
Been on 2 years now and still looks brand new.
Nice one, does it dry smooth?
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 16/8/15 at 06:35 AM |
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IIRC Frost's also list a sealer? to cover POR15 before top coating with any other paint?
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Andi
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| posted on 16/8/15 at 08:27 AM |
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I used por15 marine clean, metal ready and 2 coats of (what was called) chassis black on wishbones and rusty mirrors
using a brush.
It is a very smooth rock hard finish.
Andi
[img] [/img]
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SteveWallace
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| posted on 16/8/15 at 08:40 AM |
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POR15 is supposed to be the best there is, but I have also heard that its a bit of a pain to get the surface prep right, particularly on good bare
metal rather than on rust pitted surfaces. If you don't get the prep right, it can come off in sheets like a badly applied powder coat. Paint
it onto a rust pitted surface and you will never ever get it off again though.
I've used it for quite a few small parts in my MG TC restoration, but I've decided to go for several coats of spray on Eastwood Extreme
Chassis Black for the chassis itself as messing around with the metal prep on that scale didn't appeal based on my experience with the small
parts.
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CosKev3
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| posted on 16/8/15 at 08:46 AM |
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Rust Bullet is a very good paint, better than POR15 as it sticks to all surfaces.
Can be overpainted with anything, but you must overcoat within 24hours iirc of last coat of Rust Bullet, it can still be oover coated after this time
but they say you must key the surface which is nearly impossible as the Rust Bullet dries so hard!
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 16/8/15 at 09:31 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by SteveWallace
POR15 is supposed to be the best there is, but I have also heard that its a bit of a pain to get the surface prep right, particularly on good bare
metal rather than on rust pitted surfaces. If you don't get the prep right, it can come off in sheets like a badly applied powder coat. Paint
it onto a rust pitted surface and you will never ever get it off again though.
I've used it for quite a few small parts in my MG TC restoration, but I've decided to go for several coats of spray on Eastwood Extreme
Chassis Black for the chassis itself as messing around with the metal prep on that scale didn't appeal based on my experience with the small
parts.
When Metal Ready is used properly it leaves a coarse surface that's perfect for POR-15. It's rough enough to use as a nail file, if that
takes your fancy! So - apply liberally, leave for a while, hose down until it's all rinsed off, leave to air-dry. The only down-side is that it
must be rinsed off thoroughly, preferably with a hose - just wiping it down with a wet rag is probably not enough.
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Volvorsport
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| posted on 16/8/15 at 10:07 AM |
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Look on bilt hambers site , two pack polyurethane underseal coating .....
[Edited on 16/8/15 by Volvorsport]
www.dbsmotorsport.co.uk
getting dirty under a bus
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Angel Acevedo
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| posted on 16/8/15 at 10:40 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by coozer
I did mine with hempathane. Its used on oil rigs boats and other extreme marine places..
Been on 2 years now and still looks brand new.
Hi Coozer.
How did you applied it?
i have some equivalent to this on my Man cave, and would like to use it but don´t want to spray.
I was thinking rollers and brushes for the hard to reach places.
Thanks in advance.
AA
Beware of what you wish.. for it may come true....
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