Half Finished
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| posted on 12/6/23 at 08:57 AM |
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After a long few days in the garage, it's now a rolling chassis!
 
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Prof_Cook
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| posted on 12/6/23 at 07:13 PM |
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Looks really good!
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 13/6/23 at 06:27 AM |
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superb progress and a fantastic workshop
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Half Finished
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| posted on 13/6/23 at 10:24 AM |
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Thank you for the feedback.
Has anyone requested a VIN number from the DVLA recently? What's your experience been like?
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Half Finished
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| posted on 23/6/23 at 08:06 AM |
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I'm in the middle of paining the brake calipers right now. I'm also running the brake lines.
Unless I've missed it the IVA manual doesn't specify a fixing distance, is there a best practice for this?
Also, can I put the brake switch on a 4 way union in the rear? Most builds seem to include this in the front close to the master cylinder.
And lastly, do I need the MX5 bias valve? I'm not sure on the layout for this.
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Slimy38
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| posted on 23/6/23 at 08:44 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Half Finished
I'm in the middle of paining the brake calipers right now. I'm also running the brake lines.
Unless I've missed it the IVA manual doesn't specify a fixing distance, is there a best practice for this?
Also, can I put the brake switch on a 4 way union in the rear? Most builds seem to include this in the front close to the master cylinder.
And lastly, do I need the MX5 bias valve? I'm not sure on the layout for this.
I did my clips roughly six inches apart down the transmission tunnel, the other distances were more constrained by where the bends were going to be.
The plan I used was that if they can move, they can fail. So at it went round the corner I would add an extra bracket.
I personally went for a pedal related brake switch as per the donor car. I'd heard some horror stories about trying to get a pressure based brake
switch working, and I thought having the brake switch left at the pedal was going to be easier to set up.
The bias valve is an interesting one, here's my original question with a few answers;
https://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=211283
In the end I kept it;
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Half Finished
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| posted on 23/6/23 at 09:40 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Slimy38
I did my clips roughly six inches apart down the transmission tunnel, the other distances were more constrained by where the bends were going to be.
The plan I used was that if they can move, they can fail. So at it went round the corner I would add an extra bracket.
I personally went for a pedal related brake switch as per the donor car. I'd heard some horror stories about trying to get a pressure based brake
switch working, and I thought having the brake switch left at the pedal was going to be easier to set up.
The bias valve is an interesting one, here's my original question with a few answers;
https://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=211283
In the end I kept it;
Thank you, I did spot your thread. But that link for the diagram is dead. Where do the lines run to on your picture please? Two out from the bias
valve and one more from the master cylinder?
I did save the brake switch from the donor, I'll just use that then. Pedal box is on the to do list as well.
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Slimy38
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| posted on 23/6/23 at 09:54 AM |
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Does this help;
It was the loop back through the master cylinder that I could never figure out. If you just look at the valve first, you have one input (A), that goes
to three outputs, front left, front right and rear. I don't know why the front left loops back through but I replicated it.
[Edited on 23-6-23 by Slimy38]
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Slimy38
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| posted on 23/6/23 at 09:59 AM |
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This post has an interesting solution to the brake switch;
https://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=200618
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Half Finished
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| posted on 23/6/23 at 11:03 AM |
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Thank you for the info, I'll see how far I get with it this weekend. I need to get the brakes working so I can get it down the ramp leading to
the workshop.
I'm starting an expat job later this year. I've not worked out what to do with the chassis yet...
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Half Finished
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| posted on 22/9/23 at 02:05 PM |
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Just a quick update, I moved to Hungary since my last post and life has been manic!
I cleaned up the brakes and painted them with POR15 caliper paint. They look pretty good finished.
 
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My priority was getting the handbrake working, so that I could move the chassis without it crashing down a steep ramp from the garage.
This is a mix of Sierra and MX5 parts. I've got an issue with the cables fowling the chassis as they exit from the caliper, I still need to
modify this.
 
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I hired a box trailer and drove a 3000(!) mile round trip.
 
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And the new garage even has a pit!
 
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I'm now looking at the parts needed to complete, I had a few questions if anyone knows and could help please?
-Fuel system, Am I best sticking with the MX5 sender or using an out of tank pump? I see that both variants of fuel tank are available.
-Brake lines, has anyone used the made to order parts from Hel Performance? The builder is slick and they are just £29.99 per line? available in
Europe too
https://auto.helperformance.com/custom-car-braided-brake-lines
-Shocks and springs, based on other threads I'm going to get GAZ shocks, 14" open, 9.5" closed. with 8" x 250 lbs. & 8" x
350 lbs. springs.
-Are GAZ gold shocks worth the extra? and is there any appreciable difference between 1.9" or 2.25" springs?
-Bodywork, I'm going to get the full set from Equinox. But I've added the steel supports already at the back. Will I be able to fit the rear
panel or will I be cutting stuff away?
[Edited on 9/22/2023 by Half Finished]
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Half Finished
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| posted on 29/5/26 at 09:54 AM |
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I need to update this post with some progress pictures. I've been living abroad for 3 years with work, but i head back to the UK in July.
I've actually submitted the an IVA application too, but I'm finding that the last 5% of jobs take as long as the first 95.
It's currently at running and driving stage, with interior and exterior panels trimmed.
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Half Finished
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| posted on 29/5/26 at 09:57 AM |
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First, I missed this bit before. I made up a flexible jig for the wishbone fabrication.
It's aluminium extrusion profile with t slots in a u-shape.
 
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The slots can be easily adjusted to accommodate and hold different sizes.
 
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This saved a bunch of time from fabricating individual jigs. And the wishbones were all the correct dimensions first time.
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Half Finished
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| posted on 29/5/26 at 10:04 AM |
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Then, I removed the engine and steam cleaned the whole thing.it had a catastrophic oil leak from the cylinder head cover and oil pump.
The engine is on 74000 miles and meticulously serviced, I have the complete service history.
I replaced every gasket and oil seal, including the valve stem oil seals. I left the bottom end alone.
Cleaning up,
 
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Ready for paint
 
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After painting. At this stage also fitted new gaskets and seals
 
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The ancillaries also a cleaned and painted
 
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Engine ready, gearbox also cleaned up.
Here the power steering and ac pumps also removed, with a shorter loop for the alternator belt.
 
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Half Finished
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| posted on 29/5/26 at 10:41 AM |
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I picked up a fibreglass bodywork kit from Equinox too. The colour is Ral 4007 purple violet
Here it's just placed on. In this image ive also replaced the coil overs.
 
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Half Finished
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| posted on 29/5/26 at 10:46 AM |
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I also welded up the pedal box with a plasma cut kit from Ebay,
 
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And trial the fit before paint. I made one mistake with not allowing space for a plastic shim washer.
 
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And after paint.
 
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I've since replaced the master cylinder and I found a garage invoice for new calipers in the onor logbook shortly before I stripped it.
[Edited on 29/5/26 by Half Finished]
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Half Finished
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| posted on 29/5/26 at 10:52 AM |
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For the flexible hoses I trialed a few layouts but settled on this one I ordered a custom brake hose from Hel performance, I would recommend them.
The fronts are 60cm long with a 70° 10mm banjo on one side and a fixed bulkhead male fitting on the other side.
I found that getting the brake lines to cross the steering axis point gave the most steering angle without binds.
I actually get full lock in the steering rack, so I don't even need any steering stops.
 
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And the rears, the brake line is ok but the handbrake is still a headache. I've actually started to reorientate the angle of the handbrake lever
arm, so that it angles straight back
 
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Half Finished
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| posted on 29/5/26 at 10:55 AM |
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Next up was the roll bar, I partially welded it and jigged up the rest directly on the car.
Dimensions as per the book.
 
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And after paint
 
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I still need to run a tap through the threaded inserts to clean up the paint.
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Half Finished
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| posted on 29/5/26 at 11:01 AM |
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I wanted to mount the battery at the back of the car but didn't want it getting contaminated from road use.
I mocked up panels in cardboard to box in the rear area , this is the first trial fit
 
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The panels themselves are quite complicated shapes with multiple bends in different directions.
These are brushed with a burnisher,
 
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And this is after bonding and riveting, I'm really pleased with how this turned out
 
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Next up was the fuel tank, pre filter, pump and post filter. Technically I am missing the fuel pulsation damper at the fuel rail side.
The engine runs a feed and return.
 
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Slimy38
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| posted on 29/5/26 at 12:03 PM |
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Looks like a healthy amount of progress, great work! A few questions if you don't mind;
For the front brake lines, have you tried through vertical travel as well as full lock? It needs to be clear even when under full compression (which
was really awkward for me)
Re Steering stops, I didn't need mine to cope with the brake lines, I put mine in because without them the car would go 'over centre'
and suddenly start crawling sideways. The stops do limit the turning circle but also keep the car in the 'self centering' range.
Handbrake was really awkward for me too, and the only way I could get it to work is have the calipers upside down! I don't know whether
you've now sorted your routing but have a look at putting them on upside down as it worked for me. One of the manufacturers also does it by
default, the only issue is bleeding is 300% more difficult.
How did you burnish the panels? I have aluminium panels in mine that looked great when the film came off, but at some point they will need to be
tidied up and I don't want them shiny from polishing. That burnished finish looks spot on.
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Half Finished
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| posted on 29/5/26 at 01:12 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Slimy38
Looks like a healthy amount of progress, great work! A few questions if you don't mind;
For the front brake lines, have you tried through vertical travel as well as full lock? It needs to be clear even when under full compression (which
was really awkward for me)
Re Steering stops, I didn't need mine to cope with the brake lines, I put mine in because without them the car would go 'over centre'
and suddenly start crawling sideways. The stops do limit the turning circle but also keep the car in the 'self centering' range.
Handbrake was really awkward for me too, and the only way I could get it to work is have the calipers upside down! I don't know whether
you've now sorted your routing but have a look at putting them on upside down as it worked for me. One of the manufacturers also does it by
default, the only issue is bleeding is 300% more difficult.
How did you burnish the panels? I have aluminium panels in mine that looked great when the film came off, but at some point they will need to be
tidied up and I don't want them shiny from polishing. That burnished finish looks spot on.
I also get full lock on the vertical travel, I will check the over centre you mentioned. My turning circle at the moment is well under 10 metres. I
will measure it.
 
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More recently with the handbrake I've actually cut and shut the handbrake lever arm backwards around 90 degrees. I still need to fabricate a
handbrake cable mount to match.
The mx-5 NC handbrake routing is exactly like this The cable exits straight backwards on those.
The burnisher was from Lidl, part number PBSM 1300 A1. It looks like you can get an attachment for a standard angle grinder too.
The burnisher also does a great job on stainless steel, more to follow..
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Half Finished
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| posted on 29/5/26 at 01:36 PM |
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Next up was fuel lines, these are 8mm copper pipe clipped into a 4 way plastic clip.
The clips are mounted to an extra aluminium angle in the transmission tunnel. Also the brake line is clipped in here.
 
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With that done. I could put the engine back in
 
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I had all sorts of headaches with clearances to the gearbox.
The clutch fork was too tight to the bulkhead and there is not enough clearance around the gearbox.
I actually cut off the edge of a surplus gearbox mount. In the mx5 this goes to a cross member that also bolts to the differential.
This was about half done before I took off some more.
 
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I shortened the prop shaft myself as i couldn't find any local suppliers, I don't expect it is particularly well balanced as quite a lot was
cutaway.
I will replace this shortly. This is also a closer view of the fuel lines.
 
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Half Finished
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| posted on 29/5/26 at 01:48 PM |
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For the electrical system I overlaid the entire harness down the side of the car to verify everything.
It fired up first time.
 
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First start was quite loud without the exhaust. And a few neighbours noticed.
 
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Next up i cut everything out of the main harness that wasn't required. So ABS and airbag modules cut out.
I also cut out every fuse box, and lighting circuit. As well as the main clocks.
I had planned to replace the main fuse box and use a mini PLC to control the lights.
 
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Half Finished
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| posted on 29/5/26 at 02:27 PM |
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For making the electrical system back up I used this power distribution unit that a colleague made up.
 
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And with 3D printed case
 
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Printing the case in ASA high temperature filament was on the limit of my basic 3d printer
 
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The backside is just spade terminals, so the whole thing slides out of the case for access
 
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And installed in the car it looks like this, this replaces every Mazda fuse. There are inputs from the ECU for fuel pump and cooling fan.
And these miniature fuses from TE handle 40 amps and save a lot of space. the engine ECU is mounted underneath this aluminium panel.
Ive left the entire left side of the scuttle empty for future updates, maybe a heater matrix.
 
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And the other side has the high current power distribution. The main battery cable terminates here. With invidual fuses for the starter motor,
alternator and fuse box.
This is before I tidied everything up, there are cables here for the front lights.
 
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For logic control I used these Barth mini PLC controllers. I found them on Ebay for a third of retail price as new old stock
There are two communicating via CAN bus.
The front has inputs from the switchgear, reverse switch and brake switch. I can also read out the speed signal to do flashing hazard / brake lights
under heavy braking, but not currently enabled.
The controller in the rear is connected directly to the LED lights, it has power outputs that can drive them.
All of the logic is in place for the lights as well regarding fog lights and hazards
The front PLC is also controlling relays for the front headlights.
 
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The hazard button can wake the circuit from sleep, otherwise the standby current is zero
The PLC uses one output as a relay control for power supply enable.
And the key drives the relays in the ignition circuits.
 
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Because of the PLC, I can use any buttons. So these are miniature momentary buttons that do not switch any current.
Fog light button, the tell tale is illuminated on the switch and the Acewell Dash together.
Logic as per the IVA manual.
 
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And the hazard button. Because it's so slim, it fits into the steering binnacle.
 
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[Edited on 29/5/26 by Half Finished]
[Edited on 29/5/26 by Half Finished]
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Half Finished
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| posted on 29/5/26 at 02:41 PM |
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With the electrics done. I finalised the battery location. This is an aluminium tray.
I will add another fuse here too.
 
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Then I checked off a big list of jobs in order to get the engine up to temperature
I've taken almost a thousand photos, but i only have this picture of the exhaust:
It uses the standard MX-5 downpipe.
Then I have welded individual stainless steel sections to make a 2 to 1 collector
Then there is a link from that collector to the catalytic converter. This is actually welded from 3 sections and then ground down and polished
back.
The exhaust can is a Westfield part.
 
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Cooling system. The expansion bottle is hidden away at the front but it's not great access with the nose cone in place. I will probably move it
at some point
This is mounted to a removable bracket that also holds the double horn and the air intake.
 
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And running up the engine to temperature. The Acewell Dash is showing everything that it should and the cooling fan turns as it should
The idle is nice and low at base idle, around 600rpm.
 
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