gregory75
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posted on 20/7/06 at 04:53 PM |
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bike engine durability
Hello Everyone,
Sorry if this has been asked before, if yes, just point me to the right direction.
Browsing through ebay there are a lot of good offers on bike engines, some of them new, and some of them old(ish) for a bargain (like CBR 1000 with
35000 km's). Is it worth to buy them?
Not in terms of money, but in terms of effort. How much more would a bike engine of this age last in a BEC?
What will fail first? What to check before using the engine? What to replace without hesitation? My bet would be the clutch and clutch plates, and
changing the oil but correct me if I'm wrong...
Thanks for the answers,
Gregory
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chockymonster
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posted on 20/7/06 at 05:10 PM |
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Personally I wouldn't buy from ebay.
I'd talk to one of the suppliers of engine kits that guarantee what they supply.
A cheap engine from ebay may end up costing you more in the long run
PLEASE NOTE - Responses on Forum Threads may contain Sarcasm and may not be suitable for the hard of Thinking.
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zxrlocost
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posted on 20/7/06 at 05:25 PM |
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I bought my engine of ebay I also got all the switch gear clocks absolutely everything
but I heard it running first
if it runs smooth and has done 30000km
to me thats good enough as an engine thats done 12k doesnt mean it aint gonna have a prob the week after
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smart51
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posted on 20/7/06 at 05:31 PM |
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I bought mine off eBay. Cheap. I wouldn't pay full price for one from there and I lost a few auctions because of this.
Buy one form a good source if you are going to pay the going rate, buy one from eBay on the cheap if you are willing to take the risk.
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JoelP
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posted on 20/7/06 at 06:07 PM |
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ive bought two bike engines off ebay, only tested the first cos its runs fine, if it eveyr breaks i'll test the second! Clutch was fine too, til
i smoked it out...
just make sure its cheap and not nicked.
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russbost
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posted on 20/7/06 at 06:55 PM |
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Buy complete bikes then you can roadtest what you're buying, sell the rest on ebay & you'll almost get your money back if
they've got good plastics. My 2 zx10's are from '88/'89 bikes having covered 35000 & 44000 miles - no problems so far with
the 500 odd miles I've added to them.
I no longer run Furore Products or Furore Cars Ltd, but would still highly recommend them for Acewell dashes, projector headlights, dominator
headlights, indicators, mirrors etc, best prices in the UK! Take a look at http://www.furoreproducts.co.uk/ or find more parts on Ebay, user names
furoreltd & furoreproducts, discounts available for LCB users.
Don't forget Stainless Steel Braided brake hoses, made to your exact requirements in any of around 16 colours.
http://shop.ebay.co.uk/furoreproducts/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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Coose
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posted on 20/7/06 at 07:28 PM |
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As everyone else says, tread carefully on eSkip. If I was you I'd enquire with the two regular package sellers on LocostBuilders - Yorkshire
Engines and Colibriman. They're both decent chaps who will sort you out with a quality motor.
The only thing that I would change on installation is the oil. Why change a perfectly good clutch? My stock R1 clutch has done about 4000 miles in my
car, including track days! It was the clutch is came with and I have never had the cover off yet!
Saying that, I have another track day in August so my fingers are well and truly crossed!
Spin 'er off Well...
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JoelP
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posted on 20/7/06 at 08:14 PM |
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you dont often have any choice about changing the oil, cos often you need to remove the sump to chop it lower. Plus you would be daft to assume it had
the right amount of fresh oil in it when you get it.
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gregory75
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posted on 20/7/06 at 09:23 PM |
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thanks for the advice
Hello Guys,
Thank you all the replys. Your advices take me to the next question: what should the package contain? Many sellers don't include the wiring
loom, injectors, the so called cdi unit (what's that, by the way?) etc. So can you tell me what to ask from the seller whether his item includes
it or not?
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JoelP
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posted on 20/7/06 at 09:37 PM |
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depends on the engine and age really, but in gereral, you want to make sure it has the following: cdi (this is the 'chip',
regulator/rectifier, full loom, maybe any alarm dongles etc, carbs, fuel pump, starter, hoses, coils, maybe the exhaust if you want to modify it.
Theres always something you forget though.
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Kissy
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posted on 21/7/06 at 06:12 AM |
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If you for a CBR1000F (the old one) like I did, get the whole bike, it'll cost you lots to source the bits you don't get + you can hear it
running. The CBR is a bit big in bike terms but still chucks out 130bhp in std form, is virtually bullet-proof, and does not need loads spending to
address oil surge issues.
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pdw709
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posted on 25/7/06 at 01:16 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by Kissy
The CBR is a bit big in bike terms but still chucks out 130bhp in std form, is virtually bullet-proof, and does not need loads spending to address
oil surge issues.
Agreed. I've just spent the last few days replacing my old CBR1000F engine with a low mileage (17,000K) one bought from a breakers for £350.
Its a relatively simple transplant and has been great learning experiance. It only needed replacing in the first place because some daft twit (me)
decided to go for a drive with no sump bolt/plug..........
My tin top cost more than £350 for a full service/MOT so at this price I can fully trash my engine every few years and still save money!
Phil
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