I have my front ARB in place and I must say, I am exceedingly happy with it. I didn’t make it myself but commissioned Cornering Force to make it for me. It’s part of a matched pair (one for the rear as well) which was bespoke manufactured for my layout, corner weights and aspirations for the car. I can’t recommend these guys enough. Simon is a leader in the field and has his suspension on cars on pole in the BTCC.

So, to the pictures.

This is a view of the completed, powder coated rocker arm, showing the drop link going down to the blade, set in ‘fully priapic’ mode. There are a couple of other positive observations here – you can see how neatly it’s tucked under the rocker, as well as getting a nice view of the locking pin. The pin is spring loaded, and you just pull it out, turn the blade and it clicks home.

My car is only going to weight 650KG with me in it, so we only need one blade. Both sides are coupled of course so one blade does the work for both. The blade itself goes through 10 different metallurgical processes according to Simon so it will last the distance. It’s the single most expensive component in the whole arrangement.


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Here’s a good view going into the adjustor, showing the nylon bearing block as well. As you may have noticed, I’ve decided to make all parts that bolt on to the chassis blue, and the chassis will be yellow again. There are small stops welded onto the ARB to secure it to the nylon bearings.


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Here’s the final view, on the fixed link side. Nice and simple. What should also be evident (and is also clear in the top picture) is the line of sight between the chassis force node (top rail where the vertical meets it) and the far corner node where the suspension mounts. If you look at this and the top picture, you will see where the next set of cross-bracing is due to go in. I will make this cross bracing demountable otherwise it won’t be possible to get the right angle of pitch when extracting the engine.


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[Edited on 15/7/12 by FuryRebuild]

Looks good, but the pictures are huge!! Any chance of some smaller ones?

Can you give a rough idea of a cost? I'm looking at doing something similar for my Sprite when I get that far down the road.

Very nice indeedy

I've got no idea why the pics came out huge. As usual I just used the short link from the uploaded picture. Very frustrating I agree, but little time this am to get it sorted.

Any suggestions?

Fixed now! Makes it much easier to appreciate when you can see all of the shiny things at once!

That is a lovely bit of engineering, wouldn't mind something like that myself. Very impressive!

I was speaking to Simon yesterday (lives near me y' know) and he'd be interested in jigging up for furys if we could get 6 orders in a group buy. Whilst he has all the ratings of mine there was no incentive to jig it.

Hi

My only thoughts are, i would try it first with a good test driver.
IMHO, it looks way OTT on strength. Also there is a craze for fitting blade type setups at the mo but what few realise is that they are not really adjustable when used on a lighter car. They tend to end up as a two position setting vertical or horizontal and whats in between is not really a half way setting. When we have used them we would running the horizontal or vertical position but if something in between was required we would simply change the bar for a different strength as each car would have a choice off three to select from for different circuits.

From looking at the strength of the above it looks like you are trying to overcome a problem with the spring + damper package by fitting a OTT roll-bar.

Just my 2p

Cheers Matt

Hi Procomp

In normal circumstances, I would be tempted to agree with you, but that isn't the case here.

The blade and bar have been made to match my car's weight and desired characteristics. Fury's often came over-spring on spax dampers to compensate for any lack of sensible control in roll. As such, I've also had Simon supply new gas dampers and springs to match the setup.

So, I should have a sane amount of springing, and good control of roll. I only have one blade at the front, and a fixed bar at the back with separate bolt-through adjustment rather than on a blade.

If I'd just grabbed a blade from ebay and just threw it on, then yes, but I'm hoping a bespoke solution here will prove worthy.

Our next step once I've finished with the chassis is to start the setup testing on the measured circle.

M

[Edited on 25/7/12 by FuryRebuild]