Whats the best option for paint for chassis?

Is the stuff they paint containers with any good for cars? Containers go out to sea and get knocked about all over.

Will it be ok for a steel chassis? Some of mine is covered in red oxide at the moment.

I want blue and all the 'chassis' paints I see are gloss black.

This stuff?

http://www.paints4trade.com/skip--container-enamel-paint-665-p.asp

I was told a good few years ago, by a guy that restored old classics, that any good houshold gloss paint, dulux etc was a good deal cheaper and better to apply than "chassis paint"

hence my 7 chassis, and my old covin were painted in Dulux black gloss
however i did puchase (from memory) 5 ltre of Finnegan's rust preventitive primer


Steve

I used Screwfix Red Oxide primer.

I did 2 coats all over and more in the exposed areas of the chassis (exposed corners of the chassis footwells, rear end etc etc.). There is a list on Rob Lane's website of the areas that he'd found rusty on his when he refurbished after a few years.

On top of the Screwfix Red Oxide I then used Homebase exterior black gloss. Again, 2 coats all over plus more in exposed/vulnerable areas.

I'm sure you could use blue instead of black!

I brushed mine on but in future, for aesthetic reasons, I'd probably roller it on.

After 2 thousand miles, a fair bit of it wet, there's no rust. It's chipped in a few places where I've bashed it, but the joy of it is that I can just open the tin of paint and touch it up which couldn't be done with powder coat etc.

Cheers,
James

Another vote for Screwfix red-oxide (where are our advertisment payments? ). Can't say about the top colour, but don't see why it souldn't be fine.

I always used Tractor paint from my local Agri merchant.
Guaranteed as Pig P*ss proof... Sounced good enough for me, and worked well.
Also a LOT cheaper than other sources.

Finally, ANY paint or coating work on any material will depend on how good you do the prep work.
Poor or shoddy prep, will give you a bad job, regardless of how good it loos when you have finished.

Do good prep work, and it will last a whole lot longer. My drinking mate told me this years ago, and he is Foreman sprayer at Marshals Special Body Division, and has been there 30+ years. (Marshalls do a lot of Military and commercial paint jobs, to high standards)

Hope that helps.

quote:

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Originally posted by wilkingj


Finally, ANY paint or coating work on any material will depend on how good you do the prep work.
Poor or shoddy prep, will give you a bad job, regardless of how good it loos when you have finished.

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Interesting thread, and I'm not looking to start a flame war here, but I'm going to go for the zinc infused powdercoat approach. Basically, a gray powder coat infused with zinc powder is applied, and partially baked. Then the colour is applied and finally baked.

Steve from Fury Sportscars recommended the approach.

However, I know to my expense that powder-coating requires meticulous prep, and if it chips there's no easy fix. Best fix I've found was hammerite.

quote:

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Originally posted by wilkingj
I always used Tractor paint from my local Agri merchant.

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