I'm gonna paint my ali floor separately from my chassis. Anyone got any suggestions for the best primer/paint combo for aluminium?
Cheers,
Chris.
mark allanson is the main to ask. you need an etch primer methinks to stop the paint flaking off.....
do you need to pain alu? underside wont show, and you could put some car carpet or rubber sheeting inside
atb
steve
Well, it's not gonna corrode, but I like things to be tidy. Besides, it's a reclaimed sign from an industrial estate and there's
writing all over one side. Gonna sand it, but don't want the scratches.
Etch primer sounds good, but can you brush it on?
[Edited on 11/9/04 by Chris_R]
Yes you can brush etch primer, it gives a surprisingly good finnish 'off the brush'. I strongly recommend that you put some form of
protective finish on the underside of your floor especially around any metal to metal joints. Aluminium will corode like mad especially if it comes
into contact with road salt. Bonnets are easy to keep clean, not so the underside of your car.
Mick
The safest way of applying 2K chromate etch is with a roller, it is more even, quicker (less time at risk). Please remember the stuff is lethal, best
done outside on a breezy day.
Standard 2K etch is not as dangerous, but still needs care, it is not quite as good a chromate, but better that any of the 1K stuff available.
Mark, thanks. don't suppose you'd have a rough idea of price?
About £22 for a litre of std etch with accellerator - don't get chromate, even if they would sell it to you, you would probably contract cancer by using it. I used to use a full rebreather suit when I used it 12 yearsago
£22 or slow painful death. Think I'll go for standard.
quote:
Originally posted by Chris_R
£22 or slow painful death. Think I'll go for standard.
Think I'd rather go for bog standard. Thanks for the warning.
I have the equipment to use chromate, but I am going to use std 2K etch - I want to enjoy driving the car as well as building it
Good choice. I've got the facilities to spray, but unfortunatley nowhere to do it. Can't wait for that lotto win and the workshop that follows.
We used Alocrom 1200 on aircraft - great stuff!!
2 part mix that after a couple of hours started to give off cyanide gas (or som closely related derivative) unless disposed of properly
And yes - being squaddies we didn't use anything more advanced for protection than a pair of plastic gloves
i know alot about this, i've even got a piece of paper that says so,
strip the paint off with stripper, if you want the best finish, take it to be anodised, and then leave it alone as it will not corrode, you can even
have a colour.
alternativly clear anodise and then paint with any etch primer, rollered on, you won't drop dead just do it in a ventilated area, use a mini
roller.
you only get a problem if it is sprayed and becomes airbourn as particals.
do not flat after application, do this just before painting.
remember, any paint under the car will chip eventually
quote:
Originally posted by Mark Allanson
We were warned that death could be almost instant in some cases, without warning, paralysis of the nerves that make you breathe, the same ones that tell you that you cannot breathe, first thing you know is that the lights go out
MEK = fantastic stuff - just NASTY
years ago we used to wash our hands with it at the end of the day!!! then we were told exactly why it was a bad idea.......
get some !
here
well worth it!
crikey, now I'm all worried!
Mark A - if I go to my usual paint supplier and get "activated cellulose etch primer" then that's not so bad is it? That's what I
usually use, yellowish tan sort of colour stuff, that comes with a bottle of special "activated" thinners .
I always use Cellulose paint cos of the dangers of 2 pack stuff.
[Edited on 23/9/04 by NS Dev]