Yesterday collected the chassis pack (plus bits) from Steve at Fury. It's the first factory built Duratec chassis so I plan to do a build blog (once I can get round to making a decision on which blog site to use - they all seem to be much the same).

Once I get a chance I'll add some photos of the chassis mods that have been done to take the planned Duratec set up (Type 9 gearbox, RWD bellhousing, Raceline sump and Raceline oil filter housing).

Steve's also produced engine mounts and an exhaust manifold if anyone's in need of these.


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Ooh, sounds interesting.

Would like to upgrade from my trusty pinto to a duratec, so will enjoy watching your progress and spend!

Are you going for the le mans or classic bonnet and will it clear the engine ok?

Se7ensport on here has done a lovely conversion to his Stylus (as have others).

Good luck with the build, the Fury is a great car especially with a Duratec installed.

Lots of pics please

Steve

Cheers Steve. Can certainly recommend the upgrade from Pinto to Duratec (although not necessarily the cost) - I've been from a 2.1L Pinto to an almost bog standard low port 2.0L Duratec and jumped 45 BHP (with scope for cams etc).

Current plan is to go for the Le Mans bonnet - bonnet clearance TBC but as you say a number of people are doing conversions to Duratec (Furyous, FuryRebuild and others) and my conversion from Pint to Duratec cleared in a Tiger. It was assisting with Furyous' conversion that got me interested in the Fury in the first place.

In terms of pics didn't get a chance last night but intend to get some tonight - still unpacking and loving the quality of the workmanship on the wishbones, pedal box etc.

Got to get on and decide on the blog site to go for - blogspot being the current preference.

Cheers
Pete

Sounds like a good project PJ, keep us updated. What's happening with the Tiger, is it sold?

Are you on the standard pedal box, or has Steve upgraded it?

Sam from OBP got in touch after my post on making their pedal box fit, and they are wondering if there's a requirement to make a fury specific pedal box, catering for the narrow footwell.

If you want, I'll make an intoduction.

Also, where are you in berkshire? I'm in slough usually once a week, and would happily pop over to see the new arrival.

Hi Mark - thanks. The plan is to sell the Tiger once a reasonable way through the build (very much depends on finances though).


Hi FuryRebuild - Steve said the pedal set is a new addition (it's separate and bolts to the floor in the foot well). Have to say I'm not entirely sure what was used previously but the pedal set supplied looks very nice. Hopefully get some pics tonight.

Thanks for the offer on an introduction but I'm hopefully sorted - liked the work you on the OBP pedal set though!

Your blog (www.furyrebuild.co.uk) looks excellent is it custom using Wordpress or standard? I'm not yet experienced in this blog stuff and trying to decide between Wordpress or blogspot.

I'm south of the county, Camberley way so not exactly close to Slough or easily on your return route to Harrogate.

More than welcome though to come over and see what is no more than a pile of parts at the mo!

Well hope it all goes to plan mate and look forward to seeing it grow What made you build another and get rid of the Tiger?

Thanks, has always sort of been the plan since didn't build the Tig but have always wanted to. Wife likes the style of the Fury over the Tig so only way to get the build sanctioned!

What are your plans since you sold your Tig?

Pics as promised...

New FSC pedal set:

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FSC Duratec specific chassis mods:

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Hi PJAY

The blog is a custom wordpress install on hosting bought from easily.co.uk. It's fairly smart and even though it's a custom install, it still hooks back into the wordpress mother ship to give lots of analyitics.

It has very rich editing features, plugins, commen and media management. It's free and you can do a lot worse

by default, only other wordpress users can comment which keeps spam very low, but I find that discourages the casual commenter, and being an virtual attention seeking approval whore that bothers me, so I manage a bit of spam instead. It's not a hassle.

I have it hooked into a facebook group (furyrebuild.com) which means all my posts are echoed there with links back. That means people can follow it on FB without having to friend me.

Mark

I've brought an Elise 111s and have done a few bits to that, exhaust and induction and so far have managed to get much more use out of it than the Tiger due to the fact of having the roof as an option. It's got a k series in it at the moment, but if that goes pop then I plan to do a duratec upgrade to that

I'm going to be making a couple of duratec gated sumps soon ... let me know if you want one doing. They're made in stainless to the flak-monkey design. You need a donor sump to salvage the dipstick and dipstick tube, but that's all.

M

Hi Mark (FuryRebuild) - thanks for the info it sound like a very good set up. I'll have a look at both Wordpress and Blogspot and take a decision shortly. James (Furyous) has mentioned your work on a 10* Duratec sump - sounds good!

Hi Mark (Tiger Super Six) - the Elise looks very nice. I suspected you'd probably be looking for an excuse to get Duratec into your next car!

hopefully today I'll get the cad drawings up for my replacement footwell, including top mounted access hatch - without one I found the pedal box a bit of a mare to work on when the car's finished - access is difficult.

Sounds good with the access hatch (got one on the Tiger and as you say makes it easy to work on the pedals if necessary).

What do you reckon to the new FSC pedal set?

It's very much the same as my original - floor mounted plates to bolts acting as bearing surfaces, slight improvement to throttle pedal which will probably mean less rattling.

You have the cable clutch pedal I think (as in pulls rather than pushes on depression).

The old throttle pedal was a round tube instead of a flat bar. It seems to mean you can't get a good clamp on the tube so it wobbles side to side a bit. I'd imagine the flat one would be easier to keep steady.

If you don't have an access hatch on the foot well you really need to put one in. I tried doing something under my dash once and it involved lying on my back with my feet on the roll bar. As young as I am, I can't be bothered doing that again. The hatch makes it nice and easy to adjust the pedals.

Regarding bonnet clearance, I have a finger's width of space between the Le Mans bonnet and my Duratec. I worked out from Steve's photos that he got the engine at pretty much the same height as me, despite mine being tipped over. With the engine being upright there should be less of a problem with the intake pointing at the bonnet. Your engine will also be a little further back than mine so it would be further into the bonnet bulge.

I've got a finger or two as well, including the filler cap. My original pinto install necessitated me taking the filler neck off and sealing the rocker cover. It was a nice burton cover, so easy to work with.

Furyous suggested I also upload the pics taken by Steve at FSC. These were taken whilst he was doing the chassis mods with the loaned engine and gearbox (Raceline sump, T9 + RWD bellhousing):


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If you only have one brake cylinder there, how are you biasing between front and rear?

Going for the tandem master cylinder so fixed bias to go through IVA. May look at changing it afterwards but never been far enough in the Tiger to need it adjustable.

Understood - it pays to have an easy run at this point. I don't know if IVA has a different set of regs to SVA regarding bias. Balance bars were allowed but they had to be un-adjustable. I cross drilled and r-clipped mine and we had a great debate about a spot of weld is a permanent fixture, not an r-clip. My counter point was that there was little to stop me grinding off the weld at a later date and he let that one through. there were other failure points though, so we didn't argue.

Even after I had my bias dialled away from the back, I was still locking up under breaking, so I went for a brake bias valve very much BRAKE BIAS VALVE LEVER TYPE | eBay. It was straightforward to fit and made the difference.

It may be an option for you as you progress past IVA and want to make all the good stuff adjustable.

Well argued and a nice bit of kit. Will certainly consider once past IVA (long way off ATM though)!

I'd definitely recommend a valve over a bar. It took me ages to get my head around how the bar is supposed to work but my car was off the road by then. It turns out it was completely wrong all the time I had it, which is why I could barely lock the brakes while putting all my weight on it.

A valve seems a lot more simple and less likely to go wrong.

Another shot of the chassis this time showing the openning for access to the pedal box (based on an earlier discussion and FuryRebuilds thread http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/2/viewthread.php?tid=174664):


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Also in the background the lowered floors are visible.

[Edited on 25/9/12 by pjay]