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Chassis paint
Hopley89 - 20/12/13 at 08:37 PM

I looking repaint my chassis over the winter .. But don't want to spray it on as 70% ends up on the floor or my shine new parts
What would be the best brush on paint
Would this be ok or is this to expensive and is there something just as good but cheaper
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_829867_langId_-1_categoryId_255239
Cheers


jacko - 20/12/13 at 08:47 PM

Don't use Hammerite its to brittle and chips
Frosts make a good paint for what you want
I cant remember the name but if you do a search you will find it
Jacko
Found it
POR15
http://www.frost.co.uk/brands/por15.html?gclid=CIjUpMnWv7sCFY_MtAodDi0A_g

[Edited on 20/12/13 by jacko]

[Edited on 20/12/13 by jacko]


Hopley89 - 20/12/13 at 08:52 PM

Is this the stuff
http://www.frost.co.uk/automotive-paint/por15-paints/por15-chassis-coat-black-paint.html
Some people have said use normal house gloss ??? I thought that would be brittle as we'll !?


Hopley89 - 20/12/13 at 08:55 PM

£35.74 a litre is expensive tho and I'll need more than a litre !!!


mark chandler - 20/12/13 at 09:10 PM

Get some plant paint from your local agricultural suppliers, teamac paint is excellent, sticks to anything and is very durable.


rusty nuts - 21/12/13 at 01:37 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Hopley89
£35.74 a litre is expensive tho and I'll need more than a litre !!!


Didn't need a litre when I repainted my chassis after stripping off the powdercoating Used Hardnose from Frosts as a topcoat , still unchipped after nearly 5 years of use.


coozer - 21/12/13 at 01:44 PM

Ive used Hempathane on mine, its used in extreme off shore environments. Got it from the local paint shop supplier.

NOT CHEAP (min quantity was 5l tins, DOH!) when you combine the correct primer, thinners and what not, but promises to be the best and works out no more than all the others....

http://www.hempel.com/en/products/hempathane-topcoat-55210


renetom - 21/12/13 at 05:00 PM

Hi
I found the best to be BLACKFRIARS used it on the underside of our kit car
wrought iron gates , use an anti rust primer first & will last for years
wont chip under normal use , of course if you hit it hard enough.
Brewers & most DIY sell it & its reasonably priced, 1/2 ltrs & larger.
There is another which is heatproof for painting barbecue's
which is also very durable , both are eggshell finish similar to powder coating.
Good luck

[Edited on 21/12/13 by renetom]


Hopley89 - 21/12/13 at 05:37 PM

Iv red oxided the hole chassis .. An I'm gonna paint it with
Normal black gloss as its strong durable and other people
Said it had worked a treat so off to the local DIY


43655 - 22/12/13 at 10:12 AM

Epoxy mastic is what i'll be using. very tough, brushes on fine, and dries to a pleasant satin.
Not too cheap though £100/5l although comes in 1l kits too


jacko - 22/12/13 at 12:26 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Hopley89
£35.74 a litre is expensive tho and I'll need more than a litre !!!


You say Expensive but how long is the chassis going to last if you bodge the protector ?
Jacko


drt - 22/12/13 at 02:22 PM

I personally know a guy at 'Galvanord'.
In germany (sorry)
They have a new micro zinc process.
Will only add 1 - 2% weight.
and wil last 35 years ^^
350€ it will set you back... :s incl etching your frame.
And you can get it in all RAL colours.

Some Morgan 3wheeler frames are been done, but BMW and Audi do all there
suspension this way... (the steel components)


coozer - 22/12/13 at 02:49 PM

The Hempathane works out at £10/L

5l of primer and 5l of top coat cost me £95, that included some rollers as well.

[Edited on 22/12/13 by coozer]


formerley IDONTBELIEVEIT - 23/12/13 at 09:39 PM

Hopley,
We powdercoat loads of chassis, from bare metal £150.00 any standard RAL colour plus many more non standard.
regards wayne


drt - 24/12/13 at 02:01 PM

quote:
Originally posted by formerley IDONTBELIEVEIT
Hopley,
We powdercoat loads of chassis, from bare metal £150.00 any standard RAL colour plus many more non standard.
regards wayne


150 isn't bad,
And how does it fair against corrosion ?
do you have some VDA/DIN 50018/Kesternich data?

I always fear the oxidation you can't see, like inside the tubes...
In the past I've tried to coat the inside via a small perforated tube (spray piant)
with a great variation in protection as a result...
Anyone any ideas ?


waggy - 24/12/13 at 10:14 PM

quote:
Originally posted by drt

I always fear the oxidation you can't see, like inside the tubes...
In the past I've tried to coat the inside via a small perforated tube (spray piant)
with a great variation in protection as a result...
Anyone any ideas ?


I'm at a similar crossroads and I just wasn't sure what to do, I've decided I'm going to powder oat the outside of the chassis and I'm going to protect inside the tubes by filling with waxol and then tipping the chassis a few times to allow the excess to 'run out'. Just my 2c.


formerley IDONTBELIEVEIT - 24/12/13 at 10:23 PM

Waggy,
Remember to drill some good size holes at all the junctions prior to tacking and welding up


drt - 26/12/13 at 01:51 AM

so waxol?
Is it any good (like POR15 good?)
indeed leavid some holes will save you a massive headache later on


waggy - 3/1/14 at 11:43 AM

Waxol is great stuff, It really does work but it's dirty and messy.