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Guilding the lily
Mark Allanson - 23/1/03 at 10:28 PM

I am going to make my steering rack mounts this weekend. Are the book plans up to the job or can they be improved?

When doing modifications, I always try to make additions do two jobs, my idea is to stiffen the front suspension brackets at the same time using crossbracing on the FU's and these crossbracings support the rack as shown in the really professional CAD drawing shown below

My questions to the panel are
1, will this all be over engineering?
2, will this foul my newly acquired 2.0i Pinto?
3, will it restrict air flow through the rad?
4, will it bugger something else I haven't thought of yet!?

All comments/advice gratefully received

Thanks
Mark Rescued attachment DCP_0326Steering.jpg
Rescued attachment DCP_0326Steering.jpg


Simon - 24/1/03 at 09:04 AM

Mark,

I don't know what rack you're using, but for my Sierra (modded) rack, I welded a piece of 2" x 1" between lower front rails with "tags" welded on (front 1/8" plate).

I popped a quick doodle into archive under "rack mounting"

Hope it's of some help!!

ATB

Simon


Jasper - 24/1/03 at 10:40 AM

To strenghten the rack supports I just welded a piece of 3/4 tube from the top inside of one diagonally down to the chassis rail underneath the other. You only need to support one as the rack will then support the other.

I think there are some pics in my section


kingr - 24/1/03 at 12:41 PM

Obviously I can't say for sure, but it could be a little tricky to actually get the connection to the rack with those bits of steel in the way. Just something to watch out for.

Kingr


Mark Allanson - 25/1/03 at 06:30 PM

Couldn't make out the pictures in Jaspers Photo's but seemed a good idea so I did this today Rescued attachment DCP_0468sml.jpg
Rescued attachment DCP_0468sml.jpg


cymtriks - 25/1/03 at 06:59 PM

Extra diagonals around the front suspension area are a good idea. If you've seen some of my earlier postings then you'll know that I've done a proper stress analysis of the chassis which shows how to decrease the number of tubes, reduce the weight and double the torsional stiffness. A lot of this improvement comes from properly triangulating the front. As standard the lowcost chassis is actually no better, weight for weight, than a simple X braced ladder frame in 14 gauge 2 x 4 RHS.

Adding diagonals between FU1/LB and FU2/LA, a V brace from the bottom ends of LA and LB to the centre of LC and welding in a steel panel between LD and E (optional in the book) will significantly improve the chassis.

If you want the full list of mods I'll e-mail them to you.


Mark Allanson - 25/1/03 at 09:25 PM

Cymtrics,
A list of modifications, would be a great help.
Does it make a huge difference if you use some mods and not others? I am sure I have gone too farin some areas to make radical alterations now (about to drop the motor in!)

mark@crofthooper.fsnet.co.uk
mark@allenautobodies.fsnet.co.uk

Thanks
Mark


fastenuff - 26/1/03 at 08:26 AM

have a look at the "Strength-willit be enough" post and i think cymtricks has posted his txt at http://web.ukonline.co.uk/acwsj/help/questions.htm />

ingmar


Jasper - 26/1/03 at 12:00 PM

That's exactly what I did.....


Mark Allanson - 26/1/03 at 12:31 PM

Jasper,

Spot on!!

Thanks,

Mark


Mark Allanson - 26/1/03 at 12:37 PM

Jasper,

Spot on!!

Thanks,

Mark