I bought an air shear on Friday with the sole purpose of cutting out the 16swg steel floor. Bl**dy thing only managed 15cm I only got it from Machine mart as it was the only one that listed the capacity as 16swg. I will have to take it back now and experience there customer service once again

Moan over.

On a lighter note, it took longer and was much messier but the trusty grinder came through again

[Edited on 22/10/06 by big_wasa]

Try a jig saw with a metal cutting blades +spray the blade with wd 40 oil next time
Jacko

[Edited on 22/10/06 by jacko]

Nicely done. One heavy-ass floor though!! Looks like you're riviting it too - that right?

Liam

No going to weld it. Plug welded every 50mm. Clecos to hold it whilst I cut it out.

Couldnt make my mind up alloy or steel. Just went with the 16swg steel as per book in the end.

well why not

good stuff!

I managed to break one of those as well on my floor, took it back and it was swapped for a new one no problem. Ihaven't broken the replacement, BTW it was in a white box the original was in a printed box. it was the heel of the blade that broke on mine.

Caber

Those have a nack to use sucessfully
To much air pressure and they cut jack s**t
lower the air pressure and spray wd on and it will work much better. Getting the angle of attack right is critical as well as a slight lean.
Hope that helps

I'm just going to use a nibbler on mine. Used 'em before and quite happy to use them again.

I'm trying to work out what is going on in the photo - is it the front (cut ouyt for sump) or the rear (cut out for diff).

In either case you onluy need the floor to be strong for the occupants so you surely have gone beyond that area with the heavy steel; I'd peersonally use aluminum sheeting on the underside, rivetted in non weight supporting floor areas.

Also think bout welding it - are you sure you can do a proper job and how would you remove it to gain access to stuff - with rivets that oulwd be easier.

Apart from that, good show, and cary on!

(oh, I#ve had bad experiences with MM tools - avoid their impact screwdriver - that lasted about 5 thumps).

You do realise that it aint going to fit in your garage with the wheels on!

Quote
In either case you onluy need the floor to be strong for the occupants so you surely have gone beyond that area with the heavy steel; I'd peersonally use aluminum sheeting on the underside, rivetted in non weight supporting floor areas.

Bear in mind that the floor is a structural component and prevents the frame from lozenging. It is therefore important to bond it to the chassis by either welding or rivets at 50mm centres and panel adhesive, not silicone rubber.

John

Nibbler worked for me too, still going strong on the first punch and die and it's done two floors and 3 sets of aluminium panels plus bits of jobs along the way. Keep the cut line oiled and you can't go far wrong.

Marcus, It depends where he puts the wheels! I reckon that if he puts the chassis on its side and welds the wishbone pick ups on what is normally the top and bottom he will be OK!

Caber

I have one of those air-powered shears - works OK for me, but I've only tried it on aluminium. IIRC, 1.6mm was its capacity on non-ferrous metals - for steel it was 1.0 or 1.2mm.

I have used a nibbler in the past - very effective, but I find the crescent-shaped swarf difficult to cope with - it goes everywhere.

David

I will get it in the garage May have to get a shed to put the parts washer ect in it tho

The reason I got the shears is because I killed the nibbler on some 16swg. Now that was my fault as it was meant for 18 swg. The website AND insrtructions only state a max capactity of 1.6 mm for the shears, it does not state in what tho. It was the heal of the blade that broke of.

[Edited on 24/10/06 by big_wasa]

Yep . Once again it`s dirty dangerous anti social angry grinder that comes out tops ........Thats what I used. Long stitch welds on floors plus two longitudinal rhs to combat floor shrinking when welding.If you don`t brace it bulges and causes a popping sound when you jump in and outa the car kidding yourself that someday it`ll be finished
Alex

I've found you've to be a bit cautious with MM tools, poarticularly if they are own brand ones (Clarke) as they can be 'variable quality' lets say. I had two sets of basin pliers from them and they were terrible The stepped section where the sliding jaws engage was badly machined so they used to slip, not ideal one might say
You could try Cromwell Tools on Royce Road, P'boro? Their own brand stuff is either Kennedy or Kobe and that's usually OK. Short of that, disc cutters work just fine.
p.s. being nosey, any chance of having a snout at your car Big Wasa?