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Chassis Paint
Front Row Joe - 20/11/06 at 12:04 PM

I have decided to go with POR-15 for my chassis having read a number of threads on this forum. Can anyone advise how much metal ready / POR-15 will be required to cover a low cost chassis (plus 4"? It's damned expensive.

I'm a new builder by the way but will try and avoid some of those newbie type 'which donor ' questions etc. I have gone for a +4" chassis based on plans from Darren at GTS Tuning with a 2.0 litre DOHC donor. I'm still at initial chassis building phase at the moment.

Many Thanks.


DavidM - 20/11/06 at 12:48 PM

I used about 3/4 litre of cellulose for two coats when I sprayed mine, but given losses due to overspray I'd say 1/2 litre would be enough if you are brushing it on.

David


Hellfire - 20/11/06 at 12:50 PM

Welcome to the madhouse. I reckon most people on here would advise getting your chassis powder coated. Maybe a bit more expensive in the short term but it'll save you loads of time and the hassle of painting it. You'll also get a tougher, more durable finish (if it's done properly) than you would with paint.

If you've already considered this but still decided to go for painting, then good luck.

Phil


bilbo - 20/11/06 at 01:13 PM

As my chassis takes shape, I've been thinking about this more and more. I agree with Hellfire that powder coating is the best way to go for finish, durability etc. The only problem for me is that I know I'll end up finding a bracket or something I've forgotten to weld up after the chassis been coated

At least with paint, you can patch it up easier.


fishywick - 20/11/06 at 02:32 PM

Good powder coating can be very good, a poor job will flake off after a while.
As usual preperation seems to be the key.

I have used POR 15 before on a chassis and found it to be very good. It never flakes and seems very durable, it will turn yellowish if not overcoated with something else. I would happily use it again.

As for your question, can't remember how much I used. Seem to think it was 750ml or a litre. Used it for lots of other brackets etc.


Front Row Joe - 20/11/06 at 04:24 PM

Thanks for the response. I had considered Powder coating but I know that I will end up having to weld other parts to the chassis and am concerned about touching up. I also need to keep the budget down. Looks like I'll need the big pot of POR 15. £27 notes for paint, ouch. Is Frost's the only place you can get this stuff?


kb58 - 20/11/06 at 07:47 PM

It's not just the POR-15 itself, but also the metal degreaser, metal prep, and don't forget the topcoat.


Avoneer - 20/11/06 at 08:23 PM

Speaking from experience of POR-15, Cellulose and Powder Coat....

Shotblast and powdercoat wins hands down every time.

Trust me.

Pat...


andyd - 21/11/06 at 07:45 AM

The best thing to do is to take a leaf from the likes of the American Chopper/Hotrod boys... build the whole thing so you know you won't have to do anything more to the chassis before you send it off to paint and chrome (powder coat).

I've been there with a lovely powder coated chassis and sworn loudly when other bits needed attaching.

The other thing I found was that the roll bar got dulled and scratched with the build going on around it.

My next build will defo run and function before I get anything painted or powder coated.

I'll put a vote in for powder coat nevertheless, very nice when a good job has been done.


robertst - 23/11/06 at 11:14 AM

i'm using a similar product to hammerite... it looks like its working...

i used it also to paint my homemade hoist and it seems to hold on really good (its been outside, under the rain, cold, wind for 5 months now, and there is no sign of flaking...


David Jenkins - 23/11/06 at 11:45 AM

POR-15 is good stuff - as long as you prepare the surface well.
First you have to degrease well; their Marine Clean is good stuff, but I'm sure that there's other stuff that'll do the job just as well. Just remember that ANY paint will fall off grease!
Second, the surface has to be roughened; They sell Metal Prep for clean and shiny metal, which leaves a slightly abrasive surface that's perfect for paint. Surface rust that's been wire-brushed is also perfect.
Finally, POR-15 requires a top coat, as it's affected by UV - not so that it degrades, just that the colour changes (e.g. silver turns into mucky yellow-silver).
Sounds like a load of hassle, but it is good stuff.

It is worth remembering that some people get good results with Dulux gloss, which is both cheap and easy to use!

David


Peteff - 23/11/06 at 01:49 PM

Lots of colours and not expensive and if some comes off you slop some more on Their wood and metal undercoat is decent stuff as well and you don't need special thinners, just white spirit.


kb58 - 23/11/06 at 05:13 PM

quote:
Originally posted by David Jenkins
POR-15 is good stuff - as long as you prepare the surface well.
First you have to degrease well; their Marine Clean is good stuff, but I'm sure that there's other stuff that'll do the job just as well. Just remember that ANY paint will fall off grease!
Second, the surface has to be roughened; They sell Metal Prep for clean and shiny metal, which leaves a slightly abrasive surface that's perfect for paint. Surface rust that's been wire-brushed is also perfect.
Finally, POR-15 requires a top coat, as it's affected by UV - not so that it degrades, just that the colour changes (e.g. silver turns into mucky yellow-silver).
Sounds like a load of hassle, but it is good stuff.

David


If you use it, don't brush it on like I did. I tried it on a trailer axle, and while I'm sure it'll last forever, it, frankly, looks like crap. Spraying it on will make it look much better, but spraying a three-dimensional tube frame chassis is amazingly difficult. Guaranteed you'll miss one side of a couple tubes.