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Can you paint
garratt83 - 8/6/07 at 09:59 AM

Hi

Just wondering has anyone here painted or coated there chassis. If so what with????

James - 8/6/07 at 10:06 AM

Tin of Screwfix's Red Oxide followed by a tin of Homebase exterior black gloss!
Total cost about £15.

I did a minimum of 2 coats of the Red Oxide. (Exposed areas subject to lots of water/gravel got lots more).

Then the same again with the gloss.

In 2000 miles it's survived pretty well so far with no rust I'm aware of.

It doesn't look too pretty (you can see brush strokes on the floor) but it's a damn sight cheaper than shot blasting and powder coating!

Cheers,
James

garratt83 - 8/6/07 at 10:08 AM

Cheers James

Which parts did you do. Did you do all the frame as well??

James - 8/6/07 at 10:13 AM

Ah, perhaps I misunderstood you initial question- do you mean the steel chassis when you say 'frame'?

It's only the chassis I painted this way. Mostly cos I knew it'd be hidden by the ali bodywork and GRP and the interior panels!

HTH,
James

[Edited on 8/6/07 by James]

garratt83 - 8/6/07 at 10:23 AM

cheers

DavidM - 8/6/07 at 10:30 AM

Sprayed two coats of Zinc 182 followed by two coats of cellulose. 2000 miles also with no problems, and easy to touch up any chips.

David

nick205 - 8/6/07 at 10:36 AM

2 coats of red oxide followed by 2 coats of chassis black. 1000 miles and lasting OK so far.

I am considering adding some spray on stone chip stuff to the exposed chassis parts under the car. You don't notice it in a tin top, but the gravel and sh1t that blasts the underside of your car is pretty harsh.

garratt83 - 8/6/07 at 12:11 PM

Cheers everyone

Think I will do it James way, seem the best cos u don't see the frame as much.

James - 8/6/07 at 04:19 PM

quote:
Originally posted by garratt83
Cheers everyone

Think I will do it James way, seem the best cos u don't see the frame as much.


To be honest, although it's what I did, I probably might well not do it that way again.

A 2nd time, I'd grease the chassis somehow (WD40 maybe), build the car, then strip it back and get it shot blasted and then powder coated. Then re-assemble the car.


Cheers,
James

Canada EH! - 8/6/07 at 07:30 PM

Back in the old days when aircraft had tubing fusalages, like a Locost, when repairs were made they would put an air fitting into the tubing and use an oiler (same as airpowered tools) and let it feed light oil into the inner tubes preventing rust. BUT there weren't a hundred or so pop rivet holes in the tubing, and don't even think of welding afterwards.

RK - 8/6/07 at 09:36 PM

Search.
I read recently on here that you could cut TremClad (Rustoleum in the US, Hammerite in the UK?) with mineral spirits and paint it on with a brush or roller. Do a couple of coats and then sand 600 grit, wetsand 800 grit, and 1000 to 1500 grit. It looked very good on a car body, so it would probably work for us for a frame. I plan on doing this.

jgs - 9/6/07 at 12:24 AM

I have the misfortune of having to build outside.

Having blasted the chassis clean i used 2 coats of Galvafroid Zinc paint.

It really does a good job of protecting the metalwork from the elements.

RK - 9/6/07 at 12:28 AM

I may be forced to do the same. SWMBO has threatened to take her half of the garage back. I may get one of those 8' by 8' plastic and metal garden sheds.

bobster - 9/6/07 at 08:43 PM

in '97 on my first build I used zinc 182 painted on with a celluslose top coat. however I have rebuilt the chassis this year and found it has gone rusty in several places. This time I have sprayed the rubbed down metal with upol etch primer (from halfords) which is excellent - drop something on it and it barely chips. I will now use 2 coats of high build primer with 2 cellulose top coats. You could just use hammerite or a cellulose top coat over the etch primer. I have sprayed waxoly (halfrauds) into all rivet/bolt holes. hope this helps. chris