Maybe a silly question, but can you adjust the rear toe in/out on an MK? If so, how?
Cheers
Craig
you can adjust the camber but the only way to adjust toe is by remaking wishbones or moving mounts, so not really
tom
quote:
Originally posted by indykid
you can adjust the camber but the only way to adjust toe is by remaking wishbones or moving mounts, so not really
tom
Pants,
it looks like the little off has done some more damage. Can not see any dame to any of the suspension components, no flaking or bubbling
of the powedercoating on the chassis, but it looks like the rear near side, has now got toe out, whilst the ldrivers side is neutral.
Cheers
Craig
You can do it by shimming between the rear hub and the hub carrier, not ideal but its possible
To me its getting hold of the equipment to check it that's the hard part, the only home method that I know of is to use string around all 4
wheels again not ideal
Kev.....
Kev, can you explain the string around all four wheels method please?
Cheers
Craig
quote:
Originally posted by Kev99
You can do it by shimming between the rear hub and the hub carrier, not ideal but its possible
To me its getting hold of the equipment to check it that's the hard part, the only home method that I know of is to use string around all 4 wheels again not ideal
Kev.....
quote:
Originally posted by mookaloid
quote:
Originally posted by indykid
you can adjust the camber but the only way to adjust toe is by remaking wishbones or moving mounts, so not really
tom
You can shim the hub on the upright to adjust the toe
ok, so for sake of the dumb (me) how do you shim the upright?
cheers
Craig
disk or drum
disk
quote:
Originally posted by mad-butcher
disk or drum
What I mean is loop all 4 wheel with a a piece of string you can see where the string touches the tyre e.g. If you need to shim the front of the rear
wheel out or the rear out and which one .you need to keep the rear wheels in line with the front
If u just use a set of tracking gauges on the rear u can get the car crabbing
Hope this explains it
Kev....
take the wheel off and slacken the 4 bolts that hold the hub carrier/bearing carrier/the thing that the caliper mounts on. (what ever you want to call
it) to the upright. put washers between the 2 components at top and bottom rear bolts then tighten up. not the ideal solution.
I'm working with wozsher to develop some adjustable rear wishbones
tony
Depending upon which MK you have - ISTR the near-side rear is a fault and; unless dialled out, is always toe'd out by about 5 degrees. The
offside is neutral. We have had to rose joint ours to bring it correct - so the suspect damage you have may not be damage at all.
S
quote:
Originally posted by aka Keith
Pants,
Cheers
Craig
Hellfire, it has been a long day, just nipped back out to garage, it the near side rear has toe in, not toe out...
any ideas?
Cheers
Craig
quote:
Originally posted by Hellfire
Depending upon which MK you have - ISTR the near-side rear is a fault and; unless dialled out, is always toe'd out by about 5 degrees. The offside is neutral. We have had to rose joint ours to bring it correct - so the suspect damage you have may not be damage at all.
S
quote:
Originally posted by aka Keith
Pants,
Cheers
Craig
Keith,
The "as factory" rear end of my Indy was measured using 4 wheel laser alignment and found to have 1.5mm toe OUT O/S and 3.0mm toe IN N/S.
Reading several sources including Kit Car Suspension and Brakes by Des Hammill it is suggested that the rear wheels of an IRS set-up should always
have a small amount of toe in to improve rear end behaviour. The recomended start point is 2-3mm total toe IN across the rear axle - i.e 1-1.5mm toe
IN each side.
On the Indy, as you know, there's no provision for adjusting the rear toe. However by fitting shim washers between the rear upright and the
hub/bearing carrier you can effect an adjustment. Effectively your altering the angle of the wheel in relation to the angle of the outer face of the
upright. It's not the perfect solution, but very quick and easy and from personal experience it can give a marked improvement in geometry and
handling.
Using basic trig I calculated that a 0.3mm shim would result in approx. 1.0mm of toe adjustment. Using 0.3mm shim washers sourced from Namrick I
therefore shimmed the O/S by 0.9mm (rear hub carrier bolts) aiming for 3.0mm toe IN adjustment to give a final setting of 1.5mm toe IN. On the N/S I
shimmed by 0.3mm (front hub carrier bolts) aiming for 1.0mm toe OUT adjustment to give a final setting of 2.0mm toe IN.
As yet I haven't been able to get back to have the adjustment checked on the 4 wheel laser set-up. However on the road there is a very definite
imrpovement in rear end behaviour over bumps, undulations and particulalrly when cornering/on roundabouts.
Hope all this makes sense and stick with it becasue it's worth taking the time to do.
Hi
There Is only one small problem with the shimming of the rear hubs.You are aligning the tracking / toe But are making sure that the thrust line is
central. The Indys that i have had to redo when the rear was way out needed all sorts of shimming to get the thrust line centered. And have a toe in
that was acceptable.
Ps instead of washers you may do better with Shim steel to get the adjustments to a finer accuracy.
Cheers Matt
Matt, where can I buy Shim steel from?
Yours
Craig
Hi
Any engineering supply company. I use our local CROMWELL TOOLS. I
haven't looked but RS may even do some also.
I think it was Steve Higgnet who did a workings out table of how thick a shim equaled what change in toe setting. Not sure if that table in online
anywhere. But would be useful and save some time as it's amazing how even a thin shim can make a big difference to the toe and more importantly
the thrust line centralisation.
Cheers Matt
Edit. Just looked on RS 
it comes in 5m lengths quite pricey. Mind one tin would sort a few cars out.
[Edited on 24/7/09 by procomp]
Cheers Matt.
thanks
Craig
Have you checked that the upright/hub carrier is not bent? had a similar problem on mine after kerbing the o/s rear wheel.If you take the wheel off and lie under the car looking upwards at the bottom of the upright you should be able to see any damage,what looked on my car to be a very small bend in the upright resulted in about 15 degee toe in !. New upright from mk cured it
Jase, it is a new upright.
I used some box steel clamped to the disk face for reference, and eventually used a 2mm washer on the front top and front bottom bolts to get the rear
wheels better aligned.
might not be perfect yet, but will do until i get the whole set up measured properly.
cheers
Craig
quote]Originally posted by jase380
Have you checked that the upright/hub carrier is not bent? had a similar problem on mine after kerbing the o/s rear wheel.If you take the wheel off
and lie under the car looking upwards at the bottom of the upright you should be able to see any damage,what looked on my car to be a very small bend
in the upright resulted in about 15 degee toe in !. New upright from mk cured it
Sorry but I'm confused now, Surely if you had toe out on the n/side and you've put 2mm washers front top and bottom you have increased the
toe out.
tony
Sorry Tony, on Page two of this thread, I fessed up and admitted that I had got it wrong, the car had severe toe in, on the passenger rear wheel.
Cheers
Craig
quote:
Originally posted by mad-butcher
Sorry but I'm confused now, Surely if you had toe out on the n/side and you've put 2mm washers front top and bottom you have increased the toe out.
tony
Keith,
Try Namrick for shim washers staring from 0.3mm thick - cost about £0.30 each IIRC + postage.
Nick