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Lopsided avon
Lightning - 30/11/05 at 07:57 PM

Put wider wishbones on the nearside and the left the offside as stock for comparison Rescued attachment Exeter_show 036.jpg
Rescued attachment Exeter_show 036.jpg


Lightning - 30/11/05 at 08:01 PM

I am going to strengthen where the shock meets the bottom wishbone. The main difficulty was fitting the polybushes as they leave no margin for error in the U brackets on the chassis. Rescued attachment Exeter_show 037.jpg
Rescued attachment Exeter_show 037.jpg


Avoneer - 30/11/05 at 08:18 PM

Not one to criticise, but I really think the shock should be much closer to the ball joint - the closer the better.

Doing it like this will put tremendous stress right in the middle of the bone.

Unless I'm completely mistaken!

Pat...


carlgeldard - 30/11/05 at 08:23 PM

Lighting

I would say the same as Pat. And moving the pick up point on the wishbone closer to the ball joint will give you more travel.
As it looks like its sat on its bump stops.

Carl


Lightning - 30/11/05 at 08:36 PM

Good point. This can be done easily. Its not on the bump stop though.
As I said its coming off again. I have to say that was concerning me a tad.
Any other comments?


andrew.carwithen - 30/11/05 at 08:48 PM

You'd probably have to get longer shocks, mind, as I reckon your GTS shocks are about 2" shorter than Tiger ones! (when I got the ol' tape measure out at Exeter, yours were 10" between centres, whereas mine are 12"!)
Just had a gander at MK and their shocks are mounted a lot nearer the hub and thus are more inclined.

Andy.


Avoneer - 30/11/05 at 09:10 PM

Best geommetry is with the bottom shock mount in the centre of the ball joint.

Obviously this is not possible, so try to get it as close as possible to the ball joint without the shock hitting the top bone.

Jack up the car, give the bottom bone 1" of droop from horizontal and then with the shock fully extended and mounted at the top, weld the lower shocker mount wherever the lower end of the shock lands on the bottom bone towards the ball joint.

Hope that makes sense,

Carl - aren't you meant to be on holiday abroad somehere hot and exotic???

Pat...


JoelP - 30/11/05 at 09:23 PM

id have to agree with the mob those bones are better than some i made, but i cant see them lasting long unless its one hardcore thick tube. Assuming its around 2mm wall thickness, i think you do need to move the shock pickup point out. A pushrod would save changing the shocks, but might be more effort than its worth.


carlgeldard - 30/11/05 at 09:25 PM

Our lass is still packing and i'm keeping out of the way. Back to the thread don't Tiger supply the wrong size shocks for the Avon. Hence you should be able to move the mounting point out towards the ball joint.

Carl

I will go get my shades


carlgeldard - 30/11/05 at 09:36 PM

I started to model up an inboard shock set up for the Avon on the cad system at work. If we ask Antonyg he might log on to my cad station and produce a BMP to post on here. Please note its not finshed yet and is only a concept to see if I could get fit it between the engine/rad etc. I won't be able to answer an questions for a while. I will send Antony an e-mail just to drop the hint.

Carl

Hint droped

[Edited on 30/11/05 by carlgeldard]


antonyg - 1/12/05 at 01:02 PM

carls front suspension concept


chrisf - 1/12/05 at 02:34 PM

That is not the way I'd do it. You probably don't want the rocker mounted in single sheer. Why not mount the rocker upside down and place it on the top tube?

--Just and opinion, Chris


DaveFJ - 1/12/05 at 04:28 PM

I have always thought that the box section around the front suspension is a weak point. How about an added crossmember with a rocker mounted on top ?


antonyg - 1/12/05 at 04:58 PM

Some tubes have been removed from the model just so you can see the suspension setup ( sorry dont know anything else about it )

Carl will be back next week to talk about his design

Thanks Antony