I was gutted to find today that with my sva in less than 1 month and already having my work cut out to get finished in time that my engine (893cc blade) is only sparking on 2,3+4.

I'm hoping that its the plug at fault which I'll whip out tomorrow to have a look at. If it is the plug then shall I...

A, Get standard plugs to replace what I have at a cost of £27.50 (HERE)

B, Push the boat out and spend an extra tenner and get NGK Iridium plugs (HERE)

Or
C, Your suggestion which hopefully will be better and cheaper than my ideas above??

Thanks in advance,
Mark.

[Edited on 8/3/09 by Mark G]

couldn't you just swap the plug and see if the fault moves? Ruling out plug / ht lead?

Cheers

Rich

quote:

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Originally posted by RichardK
couldn't you just swap the plug and see if the fault moves? Ruling out plug / ht lead?

Cheers

Rich

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You "could" try the old trick of giving the plug a quick blast with a blow torch.

Blade plugs are more than a bit picky, so you might have to bin them off and start again. Still - best to try a freebie first.

If you cant get the plug out how do you know it's not sparking on number 1?
If you've tried with a spare plug an that's not workig, then it's the coil/lead.
If you're sure it's the plug, get it out and give it a good clean.
I can't believe the number of peeps throwing good (but dirty or wetted) plugs away.
It's not that the plugs arre faulty, it's that the engine is very easy to flood

quote:

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Originally posted by ReMan
If you cant get the plug out how do you know it's not sparking on number 1?

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quote:

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Originally posted by ReMan
If you've tried with a spare plug an that's not working, then it's the coil/lead.

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quote:

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Originally posted by ReMan
If you're sure it's the plug, get it out and give it a good clean.
I can't believe the number of peeps throwing good (but dirty or wetted) plugs away.
It's not that the plugs arre faulty, it's that the engine is very easy to flood.

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quote:

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Originally posted by Mark G

quote:

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Originally posted by ReMan
If you cant get the plug out how do you know it's not sparking on number 1?

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Tried to read the revs using an inductive pickup, didn't read anything on no 1 plug lead. Also, it runs the same when the plug isn't connected, and using an infra red thermometer on the manifold 2,3+4 all were at around 70'c and 1 was at 30'c.

You didn't mention that before

quote:

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Originally posted by ReMan
If you've tried with a spare plug an that's not working, then it's the coil/lead.

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I haven't actually swapped the plug over yet as my plug socket is at work. The blade engine uses wasted spark ignition so I plugged the no.1 plug lead onto no.4 and the engine ran the same as before so this eliminates coil/lead.

Nor that

quote:

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Originally posted by ReMan
If you're sure it's the plug, get it out and give it a good clean.
I can't believe the number of peeps throwing good (but dirty or wetted) plugs away.
It's not that the plugs arre faulty, it's that the engine is very easy to flood.

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This is a job for tomorrow night. although I don't think its flooded as the engine sounds the same as it ever has since I've had it running.

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Sorry, I started to write a little rant about why it wasn't sparking including all of the details, then somehow managed to delete it all and couldn't be arsed to do it again so left out the boring bits.

I'm keeping my fingers crossed for a stinking dirty plug, I'd even settle for a broken one as long as the engine is ok...

Will find out tomorrow I guess.

I had this problem with my R1 engine when it wasnt ran for a while.

It was only running on 3 cylinders,wasnt the plugs it was muck in the carbs not fueling no 1 cylinder
You could bare your hand on the manifold on that cylinder and the others were hot.

Cleaned the carbs out and ran like a good un!

quote:

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Originally posted by sonic
I had this problem with my R1 engine when it wasnt ran for a while.

It was only running on 3 cylinders,wasnt the plugs it was muck in the carbs not fueling no 1 cylinder
You could bare your hand on the manifold on that cylinder and the others were hot.

Cleaned the carbs out and ran like a good un!

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We use the iridiums in the race engines but in my experience the bog standard NGK,s are very good, if you do decide to fit the more expensive iridium plugs in the future, never clean them with a wire brush as it damages the plating and will almost guarantee a misfire.
I agree that you could be looking at a carb issue if the plug checks out ok. Also check that the little balance port plug under the casting where the rubbers push on the head is in place. I have known these fall out or get left open causing a major air leak into the affected cylinderand misfire
regards
Andy

quote:

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Originally posted by Andy B
We use the iridiums in the race engines but in my experience the bog standard NGK,s are very good, if you do decide to fit the more expensive iridium plugs in the future, never clean them with a wire brush as it damages the plating and will almost guarantee a misfire.
I agree that you could be looking at a carb issue if the plug checks out ok. Also check that the little balance port plug under the casting where the rubbers push on the head is in place. I have known these fall out or get left open causing a major air leak into the affected cylinderand misfire
regards
Andy

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Those are the idle screws !!! do not touch at this stage of proceedings.

On the head casting where the carb rubbers push on there are take off points for carb balancing, these have the little rubbers Andy is refering to.

Regards Mark

I'm with ya, I think one may be missing!

hi,those screws are your mixture screws. i think the factory setting is around 2 and a half turns out ,but that will be a little week, after a service you'll probably find them at least 3-4 turns out but theres no set rule,,every one will be different ..


edited as i didnt read the other replies properly

[Edited on 8/3/09 by OX]

Just looked back at an old photo of the engine, turns out that the screw is missing so it'll be drawing in loads of extra air then...
Can't really see when the photo has been uploaded but the screw is definately not there and I haven't put one in it.

Top marks class, you passed with flying colours! This was of course a test, I'm not that stupid!



How do you setup the mixture on the carbs? I have a flow meter to setup the flow rates but don't know how to do the mixture. I guess I'll have to do this before the sva???

[Edited on 8/3/09 by Mark G]

If you are missing that screw and can't find one then you can get a set of four stainless turned spigots from ABPerformance That you can use to tune the carbs.

With regard to setting up the mixture screws - Do you have a dynojet kit fitted and what airfilter do you have?

From Base settings I would suggest starting all four screws a smidge over 2 and 3/4 turns out from screwed in.

You need a grub/thumb screwdriver to adjust them.

What advantage to I get from using the things from AB Performance? I only ask as I don't really know what they do apart from not letting air in.

I don't know the history of the carbs, All I've done is seperate them and fit new rubber 'o' rings to fix a fuel leak.

Is there an easy way to see if they've been dynojetted?

quote:

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Originally posted by Mark G
What advantage to I get from using the things from AB Performance? I only ask as I don't really know what they do apart from not letting air in.

I don't know the history of the carbs, All I've done is seperate them and fit new rubber 'o' rings to fix a fuel leak.

Is there an easy way to see if they've been dynojetted?

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I took the plugs out tonight after fitting a ne bolt in the balance hole and all seem ok. cleaned the plugs up and refitted with no.1 in a different hole and still ran the same. no spark on 1.

checked the mixture screws and they're all over the place. screwed them all in and then out by 2 3/4 turns as suggested and still the same. I think the carb on 1 must be blocked or something. I'm going to have to strip it and check.

The carbs have definately been apart before as all of the screws look knackered and of the mixture screws only 1 has its original head.

I hope this doens't take much longer to sort as I just don't have the time. Sva in 4 weeks today and none of the panels are even fitted yet...

Mark
give me a bell on 01449 736633 _ I will talk you through the settings and worse case scenario get you a set of carbs out on loan for sva
regards
Andy

Thats very generous of you andy, I may call you tonight before I strip the carbs apart if thats ok. What time are you available on that number?

Cheers
Mark.

quote:

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Originally posted by Mark G
I took the plugs out tonight after fitting a ne bolt in the balance hole and all seem ok. cleaned the plugs up and refitted with no.1 in a different hole and still ran the same. no spark on 1.

checked the mixture screws and they're all over the place. screwed them all in and then out by 2 3/4 turns as suggested and still the same. I think the carb on 1 must be blocked or something. I'm going to have to strip it and check.

The carbs have definately been apart before as all of the screws look knackered and of the mixture screws only 1 has its original head.

I hope this doens't take much longer to sort as I just don't have the time. Sva in 4 weeks today and none of the panels are even fitted yet...

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Completely off topic for a minute - like the finished car Andrew - that livery looks cracking - seems an eternity ago I was chatting to you about sourcing a motor.
Nice job mate
Andy

quote:

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Originally posted by ReMan
Mate, Dont think i'm being funny, I'm trying to help.
But I don't get why it's the carbs now as you are sill saying no SPARK on No1?
Have you spun the engine over with No1 plug out on the head and seen it spark or not?
Kind regards

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A big thanks to Andy B for talking me through the Blade carbs earlier this evening. It really helped.

Tonight I took the carbs off expecting to find some crap in no.1 carb, As Andy had explained that they get gunked up after being sat for a while.

I removed the bottom cap off the carbs and needless to say I was more than supprised to find them as I did, Photo below of the 2 jets both completely unscrewed and resting in their respective holes.



So after finding this I decided that I'd better check the others too. Removed all 4 covers and replaced all of the screws as you can see from the photo that they've seen better days. The others were ok.

The jets in the carbs are 115 main jet and the other is 40S. Standard according to the haynes manual.

Refitted the carbs, definately runs better than before. Revs unbelievably easier and sounds better but still not picking up a good spark on no.1. The exhaust was getting hot though.

Decided to swap the ht leads in the coil pack and see what happens and hey presto, no.1 sparks like a good un and no.4 has a weak spark.

So to sum up, misfire on 1 due to an air leak from a missing balance screw, fueling probs due to loose jets and a weak spark from a dicky coil pack.

Just got to get a pack and hopefully she'll run like a dream.

Many thanks for all your help and suggestions, couldn't have done it without ya.

Mark.

quote:

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Originally posted by Andy B
Completely off topic for a minute - like the finished car Andrew - that livery looks cracking - seems an eternity ago I was chatting to you about sourcing a motor.
Nice job mate
Andy

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Mark
glad to see you are getting there. I think your spark problem will be lead or cap as the coil runs both cyls so if it is dodgy you normally lose 2 cylinders. If you send me your address I will send you a coil and lead with cap
regards
Andy
P.S
Andy our email here is sales@abperformance.co.uk
regards
Andy

[Edited on 11/3/09 by Andy B]