After owning my car locost for a summer and having really enjoyed it, its time to take it off the road for the winter and give it a bit more poke. The old cross flow is going!!

Having sourced a ZX10 engine package from a guy off of here for a good price its time to start collecting other bits and bobs that im going to need aswell as asking some questions.

Firstley is there and ideal length I should be looking to get between the prop adaptor to the diff flange?

Im going to get a 2 piece prop with a centre bearing but can any one suggest a supplier??

Lastly (for now) whats the best method of converting from a cable pedal clutch to a hydrolic bike clutch?

Cheers for all your help

If I was where you are now , I'd pop in an MNR reverse box and a two piece TRT prop

Some bike engines use cable clutch, some pics of engine end may help

You might need a fuel pump with lower pressure (if it is an old ZX10), or higher pressure (if it is a new zx10r).

Might be worth filling in where you are in your details.

Matt

You may want to think about a prop catcher while in that area, I know I now wish I'd stuck one in when I had that area opened up.

I'm looking forward to my winter upgrade too, 1.6 pinto out and a 2l zetec in

Cheers

Rich

Don't think there's an "ideal" length for the prop' but people normally mount the engine as far back as they can to improve weight distribution. Then order a prop to that length.

Probably best to go for a TRT prop to help smooth things out. An MNR reverse box wouldn't be a bad idea at the same time, but they're not cheap.

I got my prop from BaileyMorris but there's also Dunning&Fairbank and a few others.

Have you checked out the sticky BEC convertion thread at the top of this section?

adrian

You could just put the clutch MC in the engine bay and actuate it with a cable and return spring.... IE keep the existing pedal. Swapping isn't a major problem but it'll likely mean mucking around down the footwell which isn't my favorite way to spend a few hours. In fact once I spend that much time upside down with my legs in the air my legs became so hypoxic I couldn't use them to get out of the car so I had to kind of do a wierd kind of push up with my arms behind me and then grab hold of the roll bar and pull myself sideways. Only then did my legs start getting blood again! Not good...

I'm not sure there is an optimum length for a prop. Most people just position the engine as suits and get the prop made accourdingly. The real question is where to put the engine. If you put it as far "back" as possible you'll have very little weight over the front of the car which is good and bad....

dont worry about prop length just ensure its a two piece prop if its toward the front of the engine bay as it will stop vibration.

good luck.

engine mounting i would copy the one of the MNR for the ZZR1100 engine which should be the same.

dave j

quote:

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Originally posted by BenB
You could just put the clutch MC in the engine bay and actuate it with a cable and return spring.... IE keep the existing pedal. Swapping isn't a major problem but it'll likely mean mucking around down the footwell which isn't my favorite way to spend a few hours. In fact once I spend that much time upside down with my legs in the air my legs became so hypoxic I couldn't use them to get out of the car so I had to kind of do a wierd kind of push up with my arms behind me and then grab hold of the roll bar and pull myself sideways. Only then did my legs start getting blood again! Not good...

I'm not sure there is an optimum length for a prop. Most people just position the engine as suits and get the prop made accourdingly. The real question is where to put the engine. If you put it as far "back" as possible you'll have very little weight over the front of the car which is good and bad....

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thanks for your replies!! so a few things ive pick up on are as follows:

a) mount the engine as far back as I can
b) fuel pump (know sourced a facet pump that was "kicking about at work " )

c) whats a prop catcher??

cheers again

[Edited on 1/10/10 by mattyc]

Essentially a strong hoop that goes around the prop and securely fastened in the tunnel so if the prop does let go then it doesn't let the prop wave about inside the tunnel trying the destroy your hips, fuel lines and electrics, I heard of large exhaust clamps been modified and used as catchers.

Cheers

Rich

Linky has a few examples

[Edited on 1/10/10 by RichardK]

ive used a two piece shaft with a center bearing if your using this method make sure you get the shaft made with the slip joint at the rear near the diff so you can use the center bearing to keep a little tention on the front end of the shaft this way the front of the shaft is pushed against the engine flange so if any bolts work there way loose this stops the front end of the propshaft dropping of the engine its a much safer way of mounting the shaft (if the slip joint on your shaft is at the front of the car and any bolts come loose the shaft will just drop straight away!) dunning & fairbank is where i had mine made dont skimp on this part of the car its the most important part this could make or brake your build !

pleeeeeeease make sure you have got a prop catcher.

people have been seriously injured not having one.

imagine one side failing of the prop and spinning around.

i only have 16 gauge steel between me and a prop which could spin at 1000 times a minute.

not fun if it fails and rips through the side wall into your side.

dave j

quote:

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Originally posted by jossey
i only have 16 gauge steel between me and a prop which could spin at 1000 times a minute.

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ye as above maybe faster. i dunno. i try counting it and lose count at about 3 or 4

dave :O)