). 
Sorry for another thread.
But, ive got an electric reverse system (MK's) on my 2008 R1, but whenever i start reversing with engine running, but in neutral, the enginne
just cuts out.
is there anything on the engine that could cause this? any type of safety cut off for a bike?
or could it be that, its using up all the power, and the engine can't cope?
or anyone with any other ideas?
cheers
I had this on my R1, it seems there is too much of voltage drop when they reverse is being used, it seems to reset the ecu and cause the engine to
stall. Only suggestion is to use a larger capacity battery.
There may be some way of using a very large capacitor to smooth out the supply to the engine loom, but I just ended up pressing the starter button
again as it was easier.
As above - or possibly two batteries and a split charge system - not a great weight saver though!
[Edited on 18/10/11 by TimC]
ahh ok, so i take it, the easiest is to just turn the engine off when reversing?
And hope, it doesn't completely drain the battery, to get started again.
what happens when you rev the engine when reversing?
Does it still cut out?
Shouldn't be anything from the bike side - I've gone backwards down hills at a reasonable pace fine on bikes (both intentionally, an in
enduro-conditions, less so ).
quote:
Originally posted by tomgregory2000
what happens when you rev the engine when reversing?
Does it still cut out?
.
Yes, it's the reverse motor dropping the voltage enough to upset the ECU. TADTS :-)
Not worth worrying about it. I thought of using an additional battery and some sort of diode but decided there was no point. Easier to just hit the
starter button after reversing!
eye, thats an idea, can't try it now, but will try that in the week. But theory is, with more revs, there should be more volts going back to the
battery (i think), and it deffinatly can't do any harm i supose.
also just checked the battery, and its only showing 11.7V, so i would say thats the main reason, i will get it on a good charge.
They always do it, just rev the nuts out of it while reversing.
quote:
Originally posted by amalyos
They always do it, just rev the nuts out of it while reversing.
Why not just get an electronically controlled vacuum switching valve and wire it in parallel with the reverse - auto idle-up. My car uses these for
air con and a few other oem features.
[Edited on 18/10/11 by coyoteboy]
its more likely that the reverse motor is putting too much draw on the alternator which is then straining the engine at idle and causing it to cut out. more revs when reversing should cure it or put a bigger final drive gear on it so there is less torque required from the motor to move the car
If its a voltage drop to the ECU.... wouldnt a suitable large capacitor and a diode on the input to the ECU overcome this?
Should be able to get this to work:
Vauxhall Redtop C20XE C20LET C25XE X30XE idle air control valve SAAB B308 V6 | eBay
One point though, if you're running an aftermarket ecu, check your battery voltage compensation - with it sufficiently wrong you could stall a
car with the wipers.
quote:
Originally posted by tegwin
If its a voltage drop to the ECU.... wouldnt a suitable large capacitor and a diode on the input to the ECU overcome this?
Just to shed some light on myprogress with this.
I fitted a small jap style car battery with 330 amps
This charges absolutely fine on the charge system and draws enough power to run the electric reverse with a slight rev to 2k engine won't cut out