What sort of 0-60 times do you get from your BEC.

I've got an Aries running a 919 fireblade with a Sierra LSD 3.92 diff and my first attempt was 6.5 seconds, now for the excusses slightly up hill, I'm still having problems getting it moving (not use to revving something that high!), c**p tyres and the car only passed IVA 4 weeks ago!

What should I be getting from this setup? This should give me something to work towards!

Cheers,
Iain

4.5-5.0

Need to factor wheel/tyer size and weight of ar and driver though.
The crap tyres shouldnt affect it too much, youll soon warm them up :-)

you may find 3.93 is a bit short in the long run

You need to give it some revs and pretty much dump the clutch to get a really good launch

I didn't realise that bike-engined 7's could crack the 60mph mark!

quote:

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Originally posted by scootz
I didn't realise that bike-engined 7's could crack the 60mph mark!

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when mine was a super blackbird it used to do about 4.25 seconds with a 3.9 diff @ just over 500KG + driver

tilly

My Dax only managed 5 seconds with the RF900 engine. same sort of power as the early 900 blades.

Best 0-60's with the ZX12R is 4.4 seconds.
Getting going seems to be the problem.

I do not see the point trying to better the times any more. Don not want risk of busting the clutch.

Not trying to be rude or take the p155, but anything over 6 secs for a bike engined car sounds very slow. With the old Furore with the Toyota 1.6 AGE lump (now sold long ago!), which was bog standard & pretty tired, I could just about hit the 6 second mark & the Furore is probs a little heavier than most 7's, certainly than a bike engined 7. I would have thought any bike engined 7 should be capable of a 5 sec or less 0 - 60 even with a fairly heavy driver & a high diff, & you have a very low diff, tho' you don't mention driver weight? With the ZZR1400 lump I can get sub 4 secs.

Part of the problem with BEC's is getting them off the mark, instead of an absolutely standing start (which abuses all mechanical parts) why not try a "just rolling" to 60 time, if it is dramatically better then there is probs nothing to worry about with your setup, it's more a matter of technique, & as has altready been said, if that's the case, why keep trying to improve, it will only break something sooner or later!

Last month I did a morning up at Hedley Court in Surrey for the troops, myself and a few more exotica ended up giving rides from outside the hospital.

It has about a 3/4 mile straight outside. I was using Full Launch Control with 440bhp from a standing start on the limiter in first and second, times where around 3.2 seconds without using boost in gears control.

Using a traction lock diff, car try’s to go sideways for the first 10 meters then it’s gone. Even as the driver you feel you are pinned to the seat, never mind bringing it all under control for the bends at the end of the road.

Having now raced my locoblade (929) for a year there is definitely a knack to getting them of the line. Having raced minis for years it’s much the same.

When your car is on the rollers find out where max torque occurs. Hold the revs at this point, mine is about 9000Rpm.

Then dump the clutch and control the initial wheel spin on the throttle do not back off to soon or it will bog. The trick is to get the wheels spinning; this will take some of the load of the clutch as it’s engaged.

You don’t want to go doing it at every set of lights but I have had minimal clutch trouble, running barrnet plates and springs with standard driven plates.

I race with a guy who has a radical SR3 and I beat him of the line regularly.

Your 0-60 times are all dependant on the start you get. Most 0-60 times are down to the driver.

BEC are quicker than CEC more often than not due to the speed of the gear change and lack of weight. My car gets realy slow when I stick someone else in it for a track day.

Hope this helps.

isnt 3.92 a bit high for rapid acceleration & more for top end speed?

No, 3.9 would give you better acceleration and less top end.

My GPS performace measurer thingy measured mine at 4.10 seconds. That was with 123bhp at the wheel and 520kgs (with driver etc) and on warm slicks.

Although 3.92 should theoretically give you more acceleration, perhaps it doesn't.

What gear are you in when you hit 60? Too many changes, too much time in the wrong part of the rev range may be detremental.

A 3.62 or a 3.38 (recommended by racers such as Andy Bates) would be worth trying. I would get a 3.62 and go from there, I've been in a few 'blade cars and a 3.62 seems fine.

3.62 should give you 60 in second , 3.92 might get it there a bit quicker as the 1st to 2nd is quite a big jump and takes the revs out of the best place on the 0.60 sprint IMHO, but there wont be much in it
But for a better top speed I'm moving to a 3.38 this winter, just might need the Mrs to get out for hill starts (ducks)

Thanks for all the advice.

Hope I get another dry weekend to give it another go

Cheers,
IainL

I'd say you'd be well under 4.5, my st engine CEC can hit 4.7-4.9 and was before the last rolling road session.

ATB Dan.

3.1 0-60

Gen II Hayabusa powered Sylva J15 with custom 93 inch WB
445 kg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r5JVT_tO5ao&sns=em

I can give you an accurate 64ft time of 2 seconds. 2 seconds equates to 1g of acceleration. I would estimate 3.5ish with zx14 and soft slicks.