Hayabusa FI Light
bobinspain - 5/3/12 at 01:06 PM
Since delivery a few weeks ago, I have the FI light illuminated more often than not.
I have done the paper clip 'wheeze' on the mode-switch coupler and got A C00 (no fault) on the diagnostic readout.
My worry is that if I have a genuine fault, I wouldn't be able to distinguish it from the false alarms I'm currently getting.
I have a Gen2 engine (2011) with a PC5 fitted. (I now know I could've saved five-hundred quid by utilising the engine's own ECU). Could it
be anything to do with that?
The light may come on 5 miles into a drive, or after 200yds. It goes out on shutdown, doesn't appear to be rev-related. The fuel gauge is
inaccurate, that I know, but the 'no-fault' code has me flummoxed.
SJL has been ultra helpful thus far (thankyou Steve). I just thought I'd put it out to a wider audience. 
Peteff - 5/3/12 at 01:33 PM
It seems to be a common thing on all the Suzuki engines from 600cc up. On a lot of them it seems to be the TPS which causes the problem and there is a
wire that you can cut to stop it showing the fault which causes no other problems apparently.
bobinspain - 5/3/12 at 01:50 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Peteff
It seems to be a common thing on all the Suzuki engines from 600cc up. On a lot of them it seems to be the TPS which causes the problem and there is a
wire that you can cut to stop it showing the fault which causes no other problems apparently.
SJL very kindly sent me the Busa wiring diagram. It's like a cross between spaghetti and a bomb-disposal expert's worst nightmare.
Don't think I dare approach the wiring with anything sharper than the aforementioned paper-clip Pete. Thanks for the input though.
Davegtst - 5/3/12 at 02:14 PM
Did you not get a warranty? it's a brand new car!
Stott - 5/3/12 at 02:41 PM
On mine, like I said in the previous thread, is related to the flatshifter.
If I drive it using the clutch up and down the box it never comes on. As soon as I rev it and do a flat shift it will come on, due to the ecu seeing
that for some reason the ignition was just cut briefly.
Have you tried driving it using the clutch for all shifts and see if the light comes on?
Hth
Stott
[Edited on 5/3/12 by Stott]
bobinspain - 5/3/12 at 02:58 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Stott
On mine, like I said in the previous thread, is related to the flatshifter.
If I drive it using the clutch up and down the box it never comes on. As soon as I rev it and do a flat shift it will come on, due to the ecu seeing
that for some reason the ignition was just cut briefly.
Have you tried driving it using the clutch for all shifts and see if the light comes on?
Hth
Stott
[Edited on 5/3/12 by Stott]
Good point Stott. The F/S appears sensitive to any movement of the gear-stick whether clutched or not and it may well operate the cut irrespective.
For example when using the clutch (as I do for downshifts, low-speed upshifts and coming to a halt, it's a bugger sometimes to get from 2nd or
3rd back to first/neutral.
Andy Bates is sending me a Flatshifter isolater kit that he fits as standard to his cars. That way I'll be able to tell for definite, because
I'll switch the F/S out completely unless I'm 'on a mission.'
I'll post my findings.
bobinspain - 5/3/12 at 03:02 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Davegtst
Did you not get a warranty? it's a brand new car!
Long story Dave, but as I'm 1,000 miles away, a warranty would have been impracticable.
I opted instead for a 5% (£750) discount, which I 'spent' on upping the spec of the car.
(u2u sent).
iiyama - 5/3/12 at 09:36 PM
Bob, didnt you have a fuel sender issue? This will be why the FI light it lit. There is a socket that you can jump with a wire and that will give you
the error code as to why the FI light it lit. The wiring diagram should show this socket.
SJL - 5/3/12 at 10:35 PM
Yeah I have been through this with Bob. Hence the reason I sent him the wiring diagram and a picture of the plug so he knew what to look for.
At the moment the FI light isn't on so no codes recorded.
Unfortunately we don't know what sender is being used do MK use the Busa one?
I know Bob now has the switch from AB to bypass the Flatshifter so hopefully that will take it out of the equation. I have also suggested that if it
still occurs after that to read the codes with the light on.
The other option after that is to disconnect the Power Commander.
bobinspain - 6/3/12 at 08:56 AM
Just as an update for the helpful folk who are assisting me on this (and other threads), the evidence, gleaned from various sources would seem to
place the 'hot money' on Flatshifter with Power Commander 5 as a close second favourite which may be 'talking to' the FI warning
light system and telling it there's a problem. (Power cut to the coil in the case of F/S, or it would appear that the addition of an aftermarket
'black box' like PC5 can interfere with the Busa sensing).
Dynojet (PC5) came back to me yesterday saying they thought it unlikely it was their product that was involved. They did say that they thought there
was no 'memory facility' on FI-light and thus in order to read the error code, the light must be on when the bridge (paper clip wheeze) is
made. I got C00 (no error), but I didn't have the light illuminated at the time, as I'd simply switched on the ignition with the car in the
garage. I may take it out for a blip today and retest with the FI light illuminated.
As Steve (SJL) says, Andy (AB) has very kindly sent me a 'Flatshifter bypass kit' gratis to try to help 'cure' another problem,
(see Hayabusa transmission thread). Once the Flatshifter is isolated, I'll get no FI light if it was the culprit. Many thanks again Andy.
Assistance above and beyond the call of duty, an exemplar of the standard of service the kit-car industry should aspire to. Truly appreciated. I have
emailed you
Graham at Flatshifter is out of the same mould as AB and is being extremely helpful to resolve a problem (not of his own making). Can't speak too
highly of his input. Thankyou Graham.
SJL has been patience personified answering my 'schoolboy' questions too.
We'll get there in the end. I just thought I'd publicly thank those individuals who truly deserve it.
Bob.
iiyama - 6/3/12 at 04:36 PM
Dont know how the 5 comapres with the 3, however I have a PCIII USB and a trickshifter fitted and the only error code I get is from the tank sender
not being calibrated properly.
bobinspain - 6/3/12 at 06:33 PM
quote:
Originally posted by iiyama
Dont know how the 5 comapres with the 3, however I have a PCIII USB and a trickshifter fitted and the only error code I get is from the tank sender
not being calibrated properly.
It may well end up being the sender. I simply don't understand why every MK with my spec' doesn't suffer from the same problem. And
wouldn't Mk have sussed it as a systematic fault which could easily be remedied and fixed it? As I've said, I've had the float and
sender arm out to adjust (bend) it downwards to get some sort of meaningful reading on the fuel gauge.
Graham at Flatshifter emailed to say the following: Pre 2002 Suzuki engines suffered from FI illumination caused by short-burst power cuts triggered
by Flatshifter. From 2002 onwards Suzuki de-sensitised the ECU in order that it didn't react to the cuts of power to the coil. Since that time,
Flatshifter have never had a single FI issue attributable to the operation of their kit.
Dynojet (PC5) say it's unlikely to be their kit (as they would).
I'm determined to get to the bottom of it, so I'll nip out manana and illuminate the FI light, come home and bridge the block to read the
fault code whilst the engine's still running. If it turns out to be a sender code, I have a sparky pal with a 'wiggly-ammeter' to
hopefully diagnose the problem.
Bob.
[Edited on 6/3/12 by bobinspain]
bobinspain - 7/3/12 at 02:17 PM
OK, been out in the car again and spotted the FI light came on as decelerated using downshift (clutched) braking. Stayed on 'til I got home and
did the diagnostic. Code is -C40 which is 'Idle speed control valve'.
Anyone got any ideas?
SJL - 7/3/12 at 03:33 PM
Hi Bob,
I don't know if you recall but I mentioned that the Busa has gear based mapping. So a fuel and ignition map for 1st gear,2nd gear etc. The really
clever part it it also has a neutral map. This is only activated when the clutch is pulled in to start the bike safety related basically. If you do as
I did and remove the clutch switch wiring (basically join the two wires together in the loom) the bike will run in the neutral map all the time.
It has been proven that the bikes lose power with the clutch switch bypassed.
So my question to you is do you have to put the clutch down to start the car?
The thread I found on another forum indicates that the owner bypassed the clutch switch and had intermittent FI lights coming on and poor low speed
driveability.
I have a simple fix for this if this does prove to to be case that doesn't involve too much wiring 
Post below
"Hi just thought I would share a recent finding on my 08 busa, I jumpered out the clutch overide same as I did on my previous 06 model so I
didn't have to pull in the clutch to start....well I find out the 08 doesnt like that at all.
Bike was throwing a FI light with code C40= ISV, was hard to modulate on/off throttle, had me scratching my head and about to take it to the dealer,
but did a google on C40 error and got a lead from the gixxer guys. Its the clutch mod....
changed it back bike runs perfectly - go figure they obviously have the cpu check the clutch circuit during operation."
[Edited on 7/3/12 by SJL]
bobinspain - 7/3/12 at 03:39 PM
Yes Steve. Clutch must be depressed, otherwise zilch.
SJL - 7/3/12 at 03:45 PM
Can we get MK to confirm that they are using the Suzuki interlock with the clutch switch?
It could be they have wired it to not use that and you just need to press the clutch to complete the circuit from the starter button. Then the ECU
wouldnt see that the clutch is in
bobinspain - 7/3/12 at 04:27 PM
quote:
Originally posted by SJL
Can we get MK to confirm that they are using the Suzuki interlock with the clutch switch?
It could be they have wired it to not use that and you just need to press the clutch to complete the circuit from the starter button. Then the ECU
wouldnt see that the clutch is in
Steve,
Just spoken to MK. They do use the Suzuki interlock with the clutch switch.
I've emailed the 'story so far' following my conversation with Steve at MK.
(A head-scratching icon would be appropriate).
SJL - 7/3/12 at 05:34 PM
Bob any chance you can get a photo of the clutch switch on here please?
My suspicion is that it might be a hydraulic switch. If it is we may have found the culprit
bobinspain - 7/3/12 at 06:06 PM
Can do for tomorrow morning Steve.
I may as well telephone MK first thing and ask the q.
Custardpants - 7/3/12 at 08:12 PM
does seem very strange bob hope you get it sorted. My light only comes on if I stall the car, and goes out if i take the key out before restart. I did
have a faulty clutch position switch on mine which was electric - car wouldn't start at all.
bobinspain - 7/3/12 at 08:36 PM
quote:
Originally posted by Custardpants
does seem very strange bob hope you get it sorted. My light only comes on if I stall the car, and goes out if i take the key out before restart. I did
have a faulty clutch position switch on mine which was electric - car wouldn't start at all.
You may be a lucky one Luke, since in speaking to Steve at MK this evening, he says it's a problem common to all their installations.
Downshifting/revs seem to be the key and the combination triggers the C40.
Steve says he's spoken to a 'chip wizard' re' the ECU and he couldn't suss the problem.
Mal at Yorkshire engines suggested a solution involving cleaning the iscv, but given the generic nature of the problem, I'm reluctant to go down
that route, as it would involve Suzuki main dealer involvement.
If I get to the bottom of it, It'll be with SJL's formidable input. He has a 'cunning plan.'
Bob.
SJL - 7/3/12 at 08:59 PM
To try and help anyone else out here is what I have found out so far.
BEC/bike owners will know a certain amount of this anyway but I will try and describe it so that if anyone has an issue like this in the future it may
help - if we are correct in what we think it is.
Most motorbike engines are fairly basic with the fuelling etc compared to car engines. Even with fuel injected engines it was quite common to have a
manual enrichment device (choke) normally just a little lever you pulled for cold start.
Car engines have been using idle air valves (ISCV) for 20 plus years as cars have been subject to stricter emission control.
Bike engines have only in the last 5 years or so have had to tighten emission control hence the reason that they now have ISCV's fitted and
catalytic converters. So the ECU is taking control of the engine fuelling and ignition systems.
The upside of this is the ability (certainly) with Hayabusa engines is to have a separate map for each gear and neutral through the use of a gear
position sensor to tell the ECU which gear it is in and to use the appropriate map.
Hayabusas are restricted in gears through 1-4 all map based. The timing is retarded in those gears as is the case with a lot of the litre bikes. If
anyone have ever fitted a TRE (timing retard eliminator) there is probably a good chance that your gear display only now reads 5th gear. Obviously
this isnt a particularly good idea as the 5th gear map is being used all the time.
OK so now I have hopefully covered the fuel and ignition side of it lets move onto the relevance of the clutch switch.
Although I rode motorbikes for 15 years I just assumed that the clutch switch was just a safety function to stop you starting in gear. Well in essence
it is. Although that has evolved with the improved ECU technology.
Suzuki motorbikes that have gear based mapping will start on their neutral map when the bike is started with the clutch lever pulled in. If as I am
sure a lot of us have done you bypass the clutch switch by just joining the wires together the ECU just thinks you are in neutral. The gear position
switch will work and indicate you are in whatever gear you choose but the ECU is still running the neutral map.
This usually manifests itself with a reduced upper rev limit of minus 500 rpm and less power. This has been proven on various dyno runs carried out
and published on the WWW.
Why have a neutral map? Cars have been doing this for years. Why? Its all about the emissions. When I was working for Subaru we had performance issues
with Impreza Turbos and this was discovered to that the machined detent in the gear selector shaft was incorrect and the cars were constantly thinking
they were in neutral (as they use a neutral switch as do a lot of car makers) and running a cleaner,lower power map. When are emissions usually tested
- stationary and in neutral .
Hopefully I haven't come across as condescending or trying to teach you all how to suck eggs.
So where does this leave us with Bob's car.
One of the solutions to bypassing the clutch switch is to as I have said above is to join the wires together or to use a hydraulically operated brake
switch. These work fine for your brake system but are not so good with clutch pedals as they cannot keep up with the change of fluid states from
pressure to no pressure. The ECU would then be thinking that the clutch is in and the engine should be running on the neutral map. Although the actual
rpm could be anywhere between say 2000 and 10,000 and this would then cause the FI light to come on as the IACV is trying to pull the rpm down to its
normal speed.
So in summary if Bob's car has a hydraulic switch for the clutch then there is a good chance that is the cause of the problem.
If it isn't then I am stumped 
iiyama - 7/3/12 at 10:10 PM
Interestingly I have a TRE and a gear indicator fitted. It shows all six gears with no issues.....
SJL - 7/3/12 at 10:20 PM
The gear indicator on Bobs car works fine as I believe its a GI Pro but the bike clock display is stuck showing 5th.
I never had clocks with my 2007 engine so I dont know if Gen 1 Busas had a gear indicator as standard. Not actually ridden a Busa bike.
Is yours a Gen 1 engine? Are you using the bike clocks?
The normal TRE's that were fitted are just resistors that piggy back into the gear position wiring. I know it has moved on a little now and I
have never used a TRE.
I reflashed my car with ECU Editor.
Davegtst - 8/3/12 at 08:02 AM
SJL is the clutch switch applicable to all years of hayabusa? I have read that the first couple of years it makes no difference. I have a K1 (2001)
in mine and i didn't fit a clutch switch because of this. Starting to think i should do now.
The gen 1 bikes didn't have a gear indicator on the dash btw but my GI PRO works fine.
[Edited on 8/3/12 by Davegtst]
SJL - 8/3/12 at 08:16 AM
Hi Dave
Yes this applies to all Busas.
Thanks for confirming what I thought about the gear indicator on Gen 1 bikes. Thought I was right and I hadn't gone senile! The gear
indicators will work as they just piggy back into the gear position switch your ECU just isn't seeing what actual gear you are in.
On mine I actually have used a hydraulic brake light switch although mine is installed at the slave union. It works ok for me as my engine is a 07.
Gen 2 bikes with IACV need to see the switch on/off cycle due to the newer better ECU technology.
Although in hindsight now it would have been easier to install a micro switch on the clutch pedal. I had to do this with my brake light switch as the
standard Westfield one although working needed lots of pedal pressure to make the lights come on.
Does that make sense?
Steve
bobinspain - 8/3/12 at 08:50 AM
quote:
Originally posted by Custardpants
does seem very strange bob hope you get it sorted. My light only comes on if I stall the car.
Further to my reply yesterday Luke, (I'm re-reading everything to try to get it into my thick skull): My FI light comes on at what is really a
'stall' ie, on downshifting (manually), say from 5th at 6k rpm. Lift-off throttle, depress clutch, revs fall off rapido, (down beyond idle
to the stall). Drop into 4th and release the clutch, engine picks up (like a 'bump start'
and off we go, with the FI light illuminated.
The above is what MK say they find in their installations (the reason for which is proving illusive to track down).
Bob.
[Edited on 8/3/12 by bobinspain]
[Edited on 8/3/12 by bobinspain]
Davegtst - 8/3/12 at 09:01 AM
Might be a bit of a rubbish sugestion but what about some kind of damper on the throttle just before it shuts. IIRC some old peugeots have this to
stop the engine stalling when you come off the throttle fast.
bobinspain - 8/3/12 at 09:28 AM
The plot thickens------
Just spoken to MK (Dan) and he confirmed that "----a hydraulic clutch position switch is used. That's what the bike uses."
SJL may yet prove my salvation. Over to you Steve.
[Edited on 8/3/12 by bobinspain]
roadrunner - 8/3/12 at 10:22 AM
I might come across a bit fick here, but couldn't we just leave the clutch switch as it is on the bike. Surely it would be just a case of
engaging brain
every time we park our cars , and leave them in neutral ready for the re start.
That would then solve the fuelling and mapping issues related to newer bike engines.
Brad.
eddie99 - 8/3/12 at 10:32 AM
quote:
Originally posted by roadrunner
I might come across a bit fick here, but couldn't we just leave the clutch switch as it is on the bike. Surely it would be just a case of
engaging brain
every time we park our cars , and leave them in neutral ready for the re start.
That would then solve the fuelling and mapping issues related to newer bike engines.
Brad.
The reason us 'racers' do it is incase we spin and stall, bike engines can be a pain to get from 4th to neutral without rolling forward and
backwards, something you cant do when your on the track. However instead of just joining the two wires on the switch like you can do on the old
BEC's, we have momentary switches on the steering wheel etc.. otherwise we have found that just 1 set of injectors work or something annoying
like that.
Speak to Andy Bates, see if he has any other ideas
[Edited on 8/3/12 by eddie99]
SJL - 8/3/12 at 10:48 AM
It only really becomes an issue when you have gear based mapping as is used on a lot of the current Superbikes.
I am sure Mr Suzuki didnt decide to have a map per gear on a whim
SJL - 14/3/12 at 01:41 PM
Just to bring this up to date.
Bob has been out and tested the car today and has confirmed it is the switch.
To test it I had asked him to start the car with the switch connected then disconnect it once running. He then tested the car and has had no F/I light
come on 
.
Upon reconnecting the switch the F/I light illuminated within 1 kilometre.
What a result
bobinspain - 14/3/12 at 02:23 PM
I found I could delay the onset of the FI light by slow downshifting and allowing revs to drop right off. That way, I'd get 6 or 7km without
illuminating the FI light. First hint of an 'everyday downshift' and on came the light.
Tried SJL's suggestion and with one spade off the clutch-switch/hydraulic union (photo) located on the bulkhead, did around half a dozen robust
downshifts over 3kms with no appearance of the light.
On reconnection, as Steve say's, FI back on within a km and the first downshift.
Muchas gracias to SJL and those who helped him help me.
purdy - 14/3/12 at 08:02 PM
Hi guys
ive picked up a diagramme of the net, im sure you have proberbly seen it, i see that resisters have been added to avoid certain sensors and switchs,
im currently wiring a k2 into a new westfield busa kit, the local wiring is in i'e 2x fuse boxes and wiring loom for lights,horn,etc,etc. the
bike harness isnt intergrated as yet anyone with any pointers on how to go about this????
Cheers
Purdy
linky for diagramme. http://www.team-moto.com/HayabusaWireHarness.jpg
ps helpfull phone numbers would be apprieciated as i will be in the garage all day tomorrow and i want to get this nipped in the busa....
TOS is replaced with a 68 K Ohm resistor (KILO OHM).
Connect one end of the resistor to the black wire coming from the ECU (pin # 2, not the black wire that goes from the ECU to your #2 ignition coil!).
Splice the other end of the resistor into the B/Br wire coming from the ECU.
For the ignition Switch, connect one end of the 150 Ohm resistor to the O/Y wire coming from the ECU. Connect the other end of the resistor to Ground
(B/W wire).
For the 1999 model there should be a Red wire and a R/W wire coming from the starter relay, (later models just replaced the R/W wire with another Red
wire).
Run the R/Bl wire from your fuel pump relay straight to the R/W wire from the Starter relay. Place a 10 amp inline fuse between the R/W wire and the
R/Bl wire.
Connect the O/B wire from your kill switch direct to the Red wire from your starter relay. Place a 15 Amp fuse inline between the O/B and R wires.
Run the O/W wire from your Kill Switch to your fuel pump relay. (The O/W wire also feeds the Starter Button).
The Y/R and Y/B wires lead to the ECU.
Don't run the fuel pump dry. The pump relies on fuel running though it for cooling.
See how that goes.
Mark Purdham
markpurdham@aol.com
SJL - 14/3/12 at 08:22 PM
Bit confused with your post but have sent you the proper instructions for the Busa loom mods.
bobinspain - 12/4/12 at 01:21 PM
Now fitted a dpst push button instead of the single pole as supplied.
The double pole single throw isn't as 'pretty' as the chrome factory fit, but I've tarted up the switch body with some di-noc and
it blends well with the c/f aero-switch backplate.
Ran the clutch position indicator wires from the hydrauylic union on the bulkhead to two poles of the starter button.
Fires up spot on (without depressing the clutch now), but I can't test for the FI light as I can't get off my driveway for a bloody big skip
blocking the way.
The theory is, that the ECU should always 'see' the clutch as engaged (except for startup) and thus not fanny around with dropping revs and
illuminating the FI light 'thinking' that over-revving's occurring because of clutch disengagement.
Flatshifter 'Expert' now arrived, so got that to fit., along with AB's F/S bypass (threads passim).
Need to have another bash at recalibrating the fuel gauge, (still reads 10 litres or so low).
Got some sexy, black ally to glass in as a rad' stone guard.
Track days starting at Calafat (one hour north of us) next week.
At this rate, my pride and joy will be too precious to track!
bobinspain - 22/4/12 at 04:59 PM
Now been out for an 80km test run. The DPST Push button is the answer to the problem. No FI light over the whole journey.
I have informed MK.
bobinspain - 26/6/12 at 07:38 PM
Update on fitting a DPST large momentary push button to cure the FI light problem:----------
There's such an item on ebay which is rated at 16a 240v a/c. I removed the MK single pole button and fitted this one.
I needed a double pole single throw (DPST) which would ideally be rated at 40-50a and 12v d/c and couldn't find one. This was the nearest
alternative.
I fitted the button to my Busa and the two circuits simulataneously operate the starter motor and the clutch-position-indicator circuit. I encountered
a problem yesterday which may be down to 'splashing' of the contacts which produced the short I experienced.
I have the 'gated' aircraft toggle switch for power-on/off and the push-button for starting. I was taken aback yesterday, when on operating
the toggle switch, (without touching the push-button), the engine fired into life. (See photo 2 in my archive for the dash setup).
Turns out there's a short on two contacts of the DPST push button. I switched off and removed the switches and by easing (with pliers) the spade
contacts broke the short, but I'm afraid it may happen again, and a permanently made staarter-motor circuit wouldn't be healthy.
Any ideas where I can get the correctly rated d/c DPST momentary push button?
I know watts=amps x volts and just using the numbers, the a/c switch would appear man enough for the job, (16a x 240v versus 50a x 12v for the d/c
switch--if I could find one).
I started a new thread in 'electrical,' but since you guys on this thread are familiar with the history, then you may have a head-start.
(Especially you Mike and SJL). Any assistance would be really appreciated.
Bob.
bobinspain - 7/10/12 at 03:11 PM
So 5 months down the line, car and engine now done an astronomical 700 miles, (400 since the DPST switch was fitted to 'cure' the spurious
FI light) and guess what?
Yep, out of nowhere, the bleedin' FI light has started coming on again.
This time, it is not downshift related. I was simply pootling along at 4-5000rpm and on came the light.
I stopped, re-started, no light, but within 5 km, on came the light again.
No other symptoms.
Any ideas? (Given the history as documented on here).
Davegtst - 7/10/12 at 05:40 PM
Is it still the same code stored?
cosmick - 8/10/12 at 08:34 AM
Don't forget that the FI light is there for any Fuel Injection related fault. It may not be the same problem. can you tell us what the C code is?
bobinspain - 8/10/12 at 08:55 AM
quote:
Originally posted by cosmick
Don't forget that the FI light is there for any Fuel Injection related fault. It may not be the same problem. can you tell us what the C code is?
Mike,
I still have my trusty paperclip, but I've forgotten which terminals to bridge to get the code up
Additionally, with the light being intermittent, (came on after 5km) will the code come up without the light being illuminated?
If not, I'll have to drive around to get the light on and return to the driveway to do the diagnostic thingy.
cosmick - 8/10/12 at 12:28 PM
Unfortunately, it will only show you a C code when the FI light is on, if you want to see the code Do not turn the ignition off, stall the engine
instead and have the paper clip ready or connect the paper clip before going out on test.
The colours of the wires to join together are White/Red to Black/white.
bobinspain - 9/10/12 at 02:43 PM
quote:
Originally posted by cosmick
Unfortunately, it will only show you a C code when the FI light is on, if you want to see the code Do not turn the ignition off, stall the engine
instead and have the paper clip ready or connect the paper clip before going out on test.
The colours of the wires to join together are White/Red to Black/white.
Just been out Mike. -C 40 came up.
Nothing to do with revs or downshifting. I was coasting down a very steep, twisty hill in 3rd, and on it came.
I was 300yds away from the driveway, so came straight back and checked it out.
I have the DPST switch fitted. It's one of two I got sent out. I have a brand new unopened one in the garage.
Regards, Bob.
bobinspain - 25/10/12 at 11:24 AM
So the story continues---------dear reader----
Went out yesterday and got the FI light on within 200m of leaving the driveway.
Did around 20km and parked back on the drive. Inadvertently, I'd left the car in second gear.
Realising my mistake, I flicked the power-on switch (didn't touch the starter button), and was shocked to hear the car turn over (very
sluggishly). I'd naturally depressed the clutch, since I knew I'd left the car in-gear.
Car didn't start as there wasn't enough ooomph in the turnover.
I waited 5 mins and went back to try again. Depressed clutch, and power on switch to 'on' vroom, fired and started.
I can only assume the DPST switch has splashed/arced closed and thus and the starter circuit is
permanently made, without depressing the start button.
Having temporarliy solved the spurious FI light, I'm back to where I started.
I have a spare, new DPST start button, but (see previous posts) I'm not sure it's man enough for the job,
and why did I get the FI light back when for 300km the DPST switch appeared to solve the problem?
Any ideas? (particularly Cosmick and Steve).
gtr_garner - 25/10/12 at 05:06 PM
hmm im going to have to watch this thread and have a look what clutch switch setup i am using.
Mine is an MK GT1 without a flatshift and i havent had the PCIII plugged in yet. I dont have to clutch down when start, is an 02 engine and i have an
aftermarket push start button.
I occaisionally get the FI light, the drivability is never affected like yours. havent been able to get a code reading yet but will when i next get
the car out, is so intermittent which is annoying.
SJL - 30/10/12 at 08:22 PM
Bob you have email.
Will post the details up here if the fix works
If not I am coming over for a LCB holiday!
[Edited on 30/10/12 by SJL]
bobinspain - 31/10/12 at 08:28 AM
Spare appt. downstairs all permanently prepped up for guests. Just ask Baz at MK and his co-driver who delivered my car. They had a very pleasant few
days stay, (though february was a little too cold to use the swimming pool).
I've replied to your email Steve.
Duncan36 - 6/11/12 at 01:18 PM
quote:
Originally posted by SJL
Bit confused with your post but have sent you the proper instructions for the Busa loom mods.
Hi SJL
If you still have them, is there any chance that you can send me the instructions as well. I had the same image as above, but writtien instructions to
modify the loom would be much easier. My busa is a generation 1 from 2003.
many thanks
Duncan
bobinspain - 7/11/12 at 03:18 PM
This is a bit like 'Groundhog Day.'
Just when I think I'm getting out of the loop, I'm drawn back in again.
As a temporary measure, I've fitted the new DPST I'd ordered earlier as a precaution. Since it'll doubtless go the same way as the
first after 20 or 30 starts, (if the last one's anything to go by), I'll still need a better (permanent solution). Two sources have
recommended using the original single-throw, single-pole starter button with a relay in tandem for the clutch position indicator/sensor.
I now have it from an impeccable third source, that the above method has been tried and the FI light inexplicably still illuminates, and that the only
'proven' solution is to use two independently-wired buttons simultaneously. A somewhat inelegant if effective solution.
I'll post what happens next. Be prerpared for Punxsutawnwy Phil to appear !
Smartripper - 7/11/12 at 10:24 PM
Hello,
Why not use a microswitch behind your clutchpedal ?
I had this with my zx12 and zzr14 engined cars and worked a dream, that way its working like its design to work.
The engine will see the right things then and you can start the engine in every gear because you depress the clutchpedal.
And i think its a much easier solution and neater then 2 switches on the dash
greetings Daniel
bobinspain - 8/11/12 at 07:47 AM
quote:
Originally posted by Smartripper
Hello,
Why not use a microswitch behind your clutchpedal ?
I had this with my zx12 and zzr14 engined cars and worked a dream, that way its working like its design to work.
The engine will see the right things then and you can start the engine in every gear because you depress the clutchpedal.
And i think its a much easier solution and neater then 2 switches on the dash
greetings Daniel
Daniel,
Thanks for the input. SJL has previously suggested this route, having gone down it himself with his Busa engined car. He kindly ordered
for me the same microswitch he used and sent it out here to Spain. (It lies unused in my garage). The reason it does so is simply accessibility, (or
lack of it).
My mechanic/spark is 76yrs old and though he's ripped to the bone, the pedal-box of the MK is all but inaccessible to 'normal people.'
I'm clueless, 64yrs old and fat, so forget that approach too. Prosaic reason for not adopting the tried 'n' tested solution is we
can't get at it.
Smartripper - 8/11/12 at 09:51 PM
Ahhh ok thats makes everything clear,
cant u take off the fiberglass plate infront off the shuttle ??? in the engine bay then u can acces the pedals from above.
Been working on a couple off indy's and indy r before
gr daniel