Hey guys
Looking to shed weight and figured aside from cutting out the pies, the battery may be a good saving. I've seen this battery on eBay, says
it's only 900 grams! Downsides seem to be bad cold weather performance as it's lithium and also they advise against using the usual
suspects for battery conditioners, which is a pain. But 900grams!!!
Anyone tried one or opinions? Anything similar I should look at?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-G650-X-challenge-Lithium-Ion-Battery-Light-Weight-Save-2-16kg-2007-2008/171661041018
is your cars alternator designed to manage and charge lithium batteries or lead... I can see it having quite a short life
ok seems they have built in charging circuity so yeah why not...
[Edited on 5/10/18 by Mr Whippy]
Although 500 grams!!! And suitable for the CBR1000rr, allegedly
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-CBR1000-RR-Lightweight-Lithium-Ion-Battery-YTZ7S-2-Year-Warranty-525gram/381406664608?epid=2071930404&hash=item58
cd9bd7a0:g:tHoAAOSwEetV-uOD
Mate running lithium moto battery in car for two years or longer, still no prob.
Ran one on a 1.8 Zetec for over 2 years, no issues. Bought another for latest build (CBR1000).
I like the idea of saving a nice chunk of weight, however, I'm concerned about the blades charging circuit and extreme low cranking speed - if
the engine doesn’t fire first hit it will flood - the blade uses iridium spark plugs that cost £128 a set and once fouled that’s it - we are talking
engines with compression ratios of over 12-1 they make car engines seem very tame.
We are also dealing with a diode bridge reg rectifier which in all bike installs is the weakest link and they don’t react well to overcharging, when
they blow they fail in two ways:
1) open circuit - battery just goes flat.
2) closed circuit everything gets hit with 80 volts - the end result of this is usually a blown ecu, sensors etc which is a pain, but stick 80 volts
into a lithium battery and boom.
For now, I've decided to take the safe option and stick with a light weight, standard battery. But will keep an eye out on peoples experiences
with them, particularly in BEC and again, with later model Blade engines.
I wonder if there is a solution that would prevent the battery receiving over a set amount of volts? That's the biggest worry for me.
I am not great with electronics - but - what about a fuse? Resistance won't change I assume, so if voltage goes up it will blow due to increased
current? Then a voltage readout on the dash so you can see if it's gone open circuit.
IIRC the fuel pump self-regulates so it won't keep firing fuel in if the engine doesn't start, Andy Bates would know for sure though!
[Edited on 12/10/18 by AdamR20]
quote:
Originally posted by M@rk
the blade uses iridium spark plugs that cost £128 a set and once fouled that’s it
quote:
Originally posted by coyoteboy
quote:
Originally posted by M@rk
the blade uses iridium spark plugs that cost £128 a set and once fouled that’s it
Really? Re-used iridiums that had been fouled literally tens of times on my car when I started from no base maps or cranking info. Blast under the blowtorch and it's as good as new.