Hi everyone,
I am having a weird issue where my engine idles ok and if you give it some revs in neutral it will rev freely to say 6k ok once but if you try to rev
it again straight away it misfires and farts unless you let it settle for about thirty seconds. It sounds like a fueling issue but the fuel system
seems fine.
What I have checked so far (also using the CBR1000 workshop manual):
- Fuel pump and pressure regulator are fine and within spec
- Fuel pump filter is fine as is the additional inline filter which is new and flow direction is correct
- Fuel lines are new and right size
- Tank breather is fine and not blocked
- Tested fuel flow and fuel pressure and both are within factory spec
- New MAP sensor (factory one was reading out of spec)
- New spark plugs
- New fuel
- CMP & CKP sensors tested fine and within spec
- Injectors (all 8) have been flow tested and are all fine
- No intake air leaks
- HISS is bypassed and checks ok
- Speed sensor tests fine and within spec
- Exhaust servo motor is still connected and tests fine
- ECT Sensor is fine
- IAC Sync is fine
- Vacuum lines are fine
Video of issue here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sahP59tS3VM
This stupid problem has got me stumped.
What happens if you put it in gear (clutch in)? Wondering if there may be some sort of over rev protection?
AFAIK the neutral mapping is different to in-gear mapping.
[Edited on 7/11/18 by AdamR20]
It's a bit difficult to hear it properly from the clip but I have put a similar engine (2007) in my striker and don't have that problem. My
problem is light throttle running is very jerky like it needs the choke on in old carbed cars, a dyno session will hopefully sort that.
How have you done your air intake as I see you have a foam filter.
quote:
Originally posted by AdamR20
What happens if you put it in gear (clutch in)? Wondering if there may be some sort of over rev protection?
AFAIK the neutral mapping is different to in-gear mapping.
[Edited on 7/11/18 by AdamR20]
quote:
Originally posted by davspeed
It's a bit difficult to hear it properly from the clip but I have put a similar engine (2007) in my striker and don't have that problem. My problem is light throttle running is very jerky like it needs the choke on in old carbed cars, a dyno session will hopefully sort that.
How have you done your air intake as I see you have a foam filter.
quote:
Originally posted by DANMAN
Interesting point though about the idle maps being different, I would like to try and get confirmation on this as the neutral wire does feed into the ECU via the clutch diode when the engine is in the bike. I bypassed the clutch diode, side stand switch, etc as they obviously weren't required but I figured the input to the ECU was only there to stop it from starting without the clutch pulled in, side stand up or the engine in neutral.
Has anyone got a car edited version of a CBR1000 wiring diagram? I just worked through the harness myself culling and bypassing the stuff that wasn't required but maybe I ar$ed something up?
[Edited on 8/11/18 by DANMAN]
Crank position sensor
Interesting way of doing it, I tried the original air box on my striker and it was worse than an old school hot rod with a massive blower on it so did
it like in the pic below. it may not be perfect but at least I can see where i'm going.
2018092
7_152409 by david.vangils, on Flickr
[Edited on 8/11/18 by davspeed]
[Edited on 8/11/18 by davspeed]
quote:
Originally posted by AdamR20
I have the Woolich Racing software.
[Edited on 8/11/18 by AdamR20]
quote:
Originally posted by davspeed
Interesting way of doing it, I tried the original air box on my striker and it was worse than an old school hot rod with a massive blower on it so did it like in the pic below. it may not be perfect but at least I can see where i'm going.
2018092 7_152409 by david.vangils, on Flickr
[Edited on 8/11/18 by davspeed]
[Edited on 8/11/18 by davspeed]
I had huge issues with airbox changing on mine.
Out of interest can you put the standard airbox on to test it and see how it runs?
Oki doki, so a bit of an update.
Basically to get the engine to fit under the bonnet I have had to lay the throttle bodies over on an angle (there are legalities here in Australia
about things hanging out of bonnets) and went to a lot of trouble to keep the factory distance and angle relationship between the top of the trumpets
and the secondary injectors the same as factory but also needed to shorten the trumpets (make new ones from scratch) so the total inlet length was as
close to factory as possible due to the fact that I had increased the inlet tract. So the throttle bodies and new air box looked like this:
https://i.imgur.com/NfLgM9L.jpg
After a lot of fault finding and thinking it may have been air leaks around the intake pipes causing the issue I think the problem was actually the
primary injector angle and the new intake pipes. I believe the fuel from the injectors was hitting the intake pipe walls and dribbling into the engine
rather than being properly atomised.
Pulling everything apart and putting the throttle bodies directly on to the factory head mounts cleared the misfire issues when free revving so I had
to figure out another way to get everything under the bonnet with the throttle bodies in their factory location (if it wasn't for the secondary
injectors none of this would have been an issue).
After making a new air box, some screwing around with intake piping and a bit of mucking around on the lathe I managed to get the new setup under the
bonnet but it is a bloody tight squeeze with only 3mm of clearance:
https://i.imgur.com/0m6kwQ1.jpg
Took the car for a spin yesterday and everything seems to be running fine with the exception of a far touchier throttle and a lot more engine braking
than the 919 engine I had in there before.
[Edited on 18/2/19 by DANMAN]
Glad you got sorted with a nice solution, and thanks for updating the thread!
I'll definitely be keeping the standar airbox then, all that farting about seems like quite an effort