Been breaking more stuff inside my clutch..

There's this inner basket which takes the 5 bolts for the springs. This basket is fastened to the big shaft which goes to the gearbox, via a big retaining nut. The nut is locked in place with some "stake" (according to the Haynes manual). I don't know what this stake is but now it's very important for me to know because I took the nut off, breaking any stakes. Result, the big threaded shaft is nice and clean with no stakes (takes a new nut smoothly), and the old nut was damaged when I took it off.

Can you take a look at the pics and tell me how in big sh1t am I? Will I need to replace the big shaft or what?

Cheers,

Alex
Rescued attachment shaft.jpg

Damaged nut..
Rescued attachment nut1.jpg

Another view..
Rescued attachment nut2.jpg

Hi Alez
As far as I can recall, this is the normal method on Jap bikes of retaining the nuts for the clutch. The shaft is hardened, and the "stake" area, i.e. the collar which you stake into the groove, is mild steel. Therefore when removing the nut, virtually no damage is done to the threads, and you can fit a new nut and stake it as before. Same method is used on, for instance, the drive shaft outer nut on most Escort variants. I always dig out as much as possible of the deformed collars in these applications to reduce the chance of any damage, but have never encountered damaged threads on the shafts over the years.
HTH
Petemate

The stake is the locking mechanism on your nut Alez. It's best to tap it out with a punch (screwdriver ). If you use a new nut you tap the thin edge into the cutout on the shaft to lock it. You shaft looks fine.
Rescued attachment nut1.jpg

The way I feel after reading your posts can't be explained with words (and I'm not exaggerating, honest). I was having nightmares about dismantling my gearbox.

Cheers,

Alex

All looks fine to me too Alex, just get yourself another nut from the Honda dealer

As Nick Ross always says, don't have nightmares, do sleep well!

Cheers Chris, I got the new nut already and goes very smoothly (by hand) into the shaft so I've not damaged the shaft thread at all!

just replace nut...

oil axle an bit with engine oil..and put it on..

then carefully slam the nut into the pos for it..and it cant go anywhere...

Tks

Thank you Walter!

Senor Alex

want to tell you that for

putting the new springs on you will need an special tool?

because they need to be tightened by an wrench wich you can adjust on his torque..

offcourse the bikeshop does have them?
to buy them they are expensive and you need to store them on 0 Newtons..

Tks

I don't have such tool But I now understand how important it is: the reason why I had to take the big nut off is because one of those 5 bolts BROKE while I was tightening it. Still I should be using a normal tool again as I don't have an alternative

Cheers,

Alex

Guys are those bolts tightened to an stop? or are they 'flying' and is the torque process only for the amount of pre spring force??


Tks

alez if they are flying you need an torquewrench, if not you could do it by the way you did but then more carefull!

its impossible that an bolt wich compresses an spring will undo...

They bolt down to a stop, just not very tightly as they are going into ally

Thank you guys. So what happened is I just continued tightening them up past the stop

Anyway, it's almost finished now, I'm posting a few more pics.

Cheers,

Alex

Washers for the (big) locking nut, I took this pics because one of the washers looks quite dark and blue. I have fitted them back anyway..
Rescued attachment washers1.jpg

Washers..
Rescued attachment washers2.jpg

New locking nut, fitted & punched. I'm posting this so you let me know if the punching looks good to you..
Rescued attachment new_nut_installed1.jpg

New nut:
Rescued attachment new_nut_installed2.jpg

Punch!!
Rescued attachment punched_nut.jpg

BTW I have just ordered one of these torque adjusting tools (whatever their name is, sorry!) They ARE expensive but I don't want the same sh** happening again (or the opposite, a loose nut is not good either!).

So I should not use it for the 5 pressure plate bolts, but I guess I'll be using it for the many bolts of the outer cover (the one with the gasket).

Cheers,

Alex

Alez,

The nut looks to be punched Ok.

Cheers,
Sebastiaan

Thank you Sebastiaan. I was not too sure because the old one looks like it was punched more heavily but I haven't been unable to warp it more than that. I'm sure it will do!

Cheers,

Alex

You need to deform it that way

that it cant pass by the edge of the shaft

its that easy...

but if you torqueed the big nut up to the hayness amount..(or bloody much) then you sure are ok....

if the hayness states 25N/m then it is by hand tigtened up...

if it states 300N/M then you need an 1 metere bar to do the job?

(its just for some feeling of how much is stated for the aplication....)

you could also compare values..Alez

between oilfilter (done by hand)

- engine support bolt
- schok bolt

etc.

Tks

Thank you so much for all your posts. Clutch now repaired, just in time for a track day yesterday which was fantastic. I experienced no slip whatsoever.

Cheers,

Alex