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Starting my 'blade
unixguy - 16/8/05 at 01:54 AM

I have it wired up, all now seems correct. With the ignition on, the fuel pump pumps, I touch the two "start button" wires together and the starter turns the engine over. However, it does not start.. I put a test meter on the wires going to the coils - nothing. I have "bypassed" the clutch and side stand switches by twisting the ends of the wires together to complete a curcuit - is this the right way to do it? Are there other things I'm missing?

Although I said I didn't get any current showing on the coils, please don't assume this is the problem, I may have been doing it wrong :]

So, any suggestions as to what I should check/change/etc? I should note my engine is 1993 RRP.

Thanks :]

Brooky - 16/8/05 at 06:06 AM

its a long time since i did my wiring but dont the clutch and side stand wires need to be earthed rather than twisted together ?
But as usual i may be wrong.

shortie - 16/8/05 at 06:27 AM

Yep, they need to be earthed out the circuit, also the fuel pump relay is usually removed as this also stops ignition if not connected right.

Have a look at my wiring diagram which may help Indyblade wiring diagram

Rich.

ReMan - 16/8/05 at 07:34 AM

http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=29995

unixguy - 16/8/05 at 10:24 AM

Thanks for the replies guys.

When you say I should earth those wires, which ones should go there? For example, the side stand has 3 wires, and I have two of them twisted together to simulate the "up" position, according to Haynes. Should I just connect all three of those to earth, or what?

G.Man - 16/8/05 at 12:15 PM

You oughta wire the side stand switch into a momentary button on the gear lever...

Superstock quick shifter style



Its a long time since I have done this (and not on a honda) but arent the clutch, sidestand and neutral switches all wired so that the combo has to be correct for the engine to run?

On a yamaha you can start the bike and run it on the sidestand no problems as long as it is in neutral... when you put it in gear the engine stops, unless the sidestand is now up...

Bit like a 1st floor landing light system..

G.Man - 16/8/05 at 12:18 PM

My engine and wiring loom are RRV (1997) but the CDI unit I have happens to be a later RRW (1998) which works fine but features an anti-theft system which must be present or the CDI will not generate a spark. Simulate this device by fitting a 390 Ohm resistor in-line between the 12v supply and one of the CDI unit pins. See http://www.dodgyroger.com/locost/RRWCDIunitwiring.pdf for a wiring diagram. If your engine won't start and you get no spark, you may have a later CDI unit.




[Edited on 16/8/05 by G.Man]

unixguy - 16/8/05 at 02:35 PM

I'm pretty certain I have my wiring correct now:

Following the Haynes manual and replies, I have connected the green/green-white side stand wires to earth, closed the clutch switch and the neuteral switch is to earth.

When I connect the battery, the fuel pump (an R1 carb model pump) sucks up fuel until the carbs are full and then stops (I assume it's pressure sensiteive?) I have connected my multimeter to the wires going to the coils, and I don't see any charge going to them when I activate the starter by means of the starter "button". Either I am not testing the coil wires correctly or the plugs are not sparking.

Am I trying to start my engine correctly? This is the procedure I have tried: I press the starter button (or rather, cross the two wires), the engine then turns over on the starter, the carbs appear to be full, I pull the choke.. nothing happens.

Suggestions?

Peteff - 16/8/05 at 02:50 PM

Take a plug out and put it to bare metal while you turn it over so you can actually see if there is a spark. That's what I did to check on my ZX9R engine and found I only had a spark in neutral till I crossed the sidestand and clutch wires. I had to turn it over for a good minute to get it to actually run so don't expect it to kick up straight away even if you have a spark.

unixguy - 16/8/05 at 03:58 PM

I don't have a suitable tool to reach down the plug hole - can anyone suggest an accurate way of testing whether I'm getting current to the plugs without actually taking one out?

nanosleep - 16/8/05 at 04:23 PM

quote:
Originally posted by unixguy
I don't have a suitable tool to reach down the plug hole - can anyone suggest an accurate way of testing whether I'm getting current to the plugs without actually taking one out?

I'm not sure how the plug wires are done on that engine. Can you pull the wire off by hand? If so, just stick a screwdriver of the appropriate size into the electrical connection where the plug would go. Then lay the screwdriver metal part so it touches the engine block (or other good grounding point). You should see a spark and possibly hear a pop. The nice thing about screwdrivers (plastic handled only) is that you can hold it in place without getting a nasty shock.

There's only two things you'll need to run: gas/air and spark. You can check the spark via the screwdriver method. I think you said the carb bowls were getting pumped full. Are the jets possibly stoppped up? Open the throttle blades and look down into the carbs. Do they look wet deep inside? If not try getting a small bottle of gasoline and squirt a little down into the carb barrel. After the squirt, if she cranks and runs for a few seconds then you have carb stoppage. Be sure to set the bottle well away from the engine when cranking. You might get a free haircut otherwise.

HTH
-Andy

colibriman - 16/8/05 at 04:53 PM

you have U2U...

unixguy - 16/8/05 at 05:39 PM

Colin, your the man! That sorted it out! Starts first time and runs great!

colibriman - 16/8/05 at 05:49 PM

cool....!

glad to be of help....!

have fun

Colin

Winston Todge - 16/8/05 at 07:23 PM

What sorted it then?

G.Man - 16/8/05 at 07:25 PM

Dont you just hate it when they PM solutions rather than help people who might use the search function later

colibriman - 16/8/05 at 07:28 PM

haha....now now lads.....

did it over the phone ()

It was the stop switch that hadn't been shorted out so there was no feed to the cdi or the coils....

Winston Todge - 16/8/05 at 08:09 PM

Hehee, thanks Colin, just curious...

Chris

G.Man - 16/8/05 at 09:15 PM

Wicked, glad it was all resolved..