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mdc124 - 15/1/03 at 09:01 AM

Has anyone got any ideas/ pictures/plans for a really 'nice' looking dashboard retaining the bike clocks?

Or should I go for stripped out racer mode?

Anyone been there and done it?

(Yes John, I know i could have a digidash like you!)


ChrisGamlin - 16/1/03 at 10:05 AM

I put my blade clocks on the tunnel, as I couldnt see a way of mounting them on the dash in a nice way. They arent in an ideal position for viewing I'll admit, but I find it OK. Another reason I did it was because I plan on fitting a Digidash / Mychron at some point soon anyway, so didnt want a bloody great hole in the dash from the old bike clocks.

Chris


mdc124 - 16/1/03 at 10:18 AM

That's quite neat actually - I am going for an ally dash, but theres no reason that wouldn't work.

As for viewing the clocks - if you're looking at the clocks - you're not watching the road - and if you are in town you'll be slow enough that it shouldn't matter

What's the kit?

[Edited on 16/1/03 by mdc124]


ChrisGamlin - 16/1/03 at 11:02 AM

Yeh, I dont tend to use it on track days, just change gear from ear, and there's always the limiter there if need be. In town etc its fine, easy enough to just glance down for speed etc. The only thing that might help by being on the dash in front of you is indicator warning lights, as you dont really see those out of the corner of your eye and so can leave em on occasionally.
The "kit" is an MK race chassis I bought as a part built abandoned project, with ST bodywork.

Chris


ChrisGamlin - 16/1/03 at 03:02 PM

Another Pic here, I didnt realise it existed until about 5 minutes ago, on someone elses website!



sting - 16/1/03 at 03:08 PM

Looks good Chris that rear panel is it painted alloy or grp.if grp where did it come from?

Cheers
Sting


ChrisGamlin - 16/1/03 at 05:47 PM

Hi sting

Its GRP, all the bodywork was from Stuart Taylor, bonnet and rear panel as well. It was a git to fix to the MK chassis as the distance between the top an bottom tubes on the MK is slightly more, meaning the panel lower lip doesnt wrap around the bottom tube very well. I had to grind the lip away and basically Sikaflex the bottom lip directly to the tube. If you look at the car from a low level you can see half of the bottom tube, but its not really noticable.

cheers
Chris


chrisg - 16/1/03 at 07:12 PM

Hi Chris,

I like the look of the bonnet vents, are they part of the bonnet moulding or did you put them in?

Cheers

Chris


mdc124 - 16/1/03 at 07:47 PM

What size wheel are you using there?


ChrisGamlin - 16/1/03 at 09:30 PM

ChrisG (another one!) - The vents are standard Stuart Taylor "vents" moulded into their bonnet, although in mine, they arent opened out at all, so dont actually vent anything! You can get the dremmel out and open them up for additional cooling but I havent bothered.

The wheels are 6x13" Compomotive ML split rims with 185/60-13" A032R tyres, although since that picture was taken, I've gone up to 205/60 on the rears to try and gain a little more rear end grip

Chris

BTW, got a few on-board videos at the link below, though you'll need broadband for the big ones.

Llandow videos

[Edited on 16/1/03 by ChrisGamlin]


chrisg - 16/1/03 at 09:40 PM

Cheers Mate,

I know that a ST bonnet wont fit the monster !, any chance of a close up so as I could make some ?

Cheers

Chris


sting - 17/1/03 at 09:28 AM

Sorry Chris but more questions.
What seats are they and what light kit did you use.

Sorry to be a pain but i`ve finished plumbing the brake and fuel lines,fitted the fuel tank and looking at fitting the alloy panels next but a don`t like the idea of alloy side panels and am looking at fitting westfield bodywork instead but i don`t know if it will fit.

Cheers Sting


ChrisGamlin - 17/1/03 at 03:54 PM

ChrisG, havent got a close-up of it I'm afraid, will try and remember to take the camera down with me next weekend (it lives in my mum's garage!). Might be worth ringing Ian Gray and asking him if he's got a couple of cut-offs from a manky bonnet he might be willing to sell you cheaply? Alternatively, are these pictures any better, lighter colour so you can see them better?
Orange Locosaki Link

Sting - Seats are Westfield seats as supplied with the Megablade kits etc. They are over £200 each from Westfield but I picked em up for £150 the pair second hand.
The light kit is Stuart Taylor, although the side repeaters I got seperately from Vehicle Wiring Products rather than use the horrible Land Rover ones that come in the ST pack. In fact I think ST source all their lighting pack from Vehicle Wiring Products as they are only down the road from them, so prob best off going to them direct anyway. I would recommend getting proper headlights though if you plan on any night driving, mine are sealed beams and are absolute pony!
From my experiences of a Westfield body (my mate built a Megablade), I would very much doubt you'd get the bodywork to fit properly, especially around the back end and rear wheelarch area. You might might also find it a struggle to get hold of one as I doubt westfield will be too keen on selling you one for fitment to a non Westie, and they are around £1000 a shot I believe, plus £300 for a bonnet and probably about £200 for a scuttle, also rear arches are seperate. Why not do them in ally and get em sprayed, or even powder coated or anodised? I wasnt too keen on the thought of ally sides when I was building, but I quite like them now, I think with the right colour GRP they look pretty good.
Alternatively, ST do GRP sides but a friend who got a pair said they were shite (Ian to be fair did advise him they werent very good and was better off with ally, and he did refund him on them afterwards).

cheers
Chris

[Edited on 17/1/03 by ChrisGamlin]


ChrisGamlin - 17/1/03 at 04:14 PM

Better view of seats......
Front three-quarter view


sting - 18/1/03 at 12:02 PM

Thanks mate

Won`t be going westie body route me thinks. Looking at yours it looks great as is, love those seats aswell.

ho hum