I'm getting a bit of clutch slip at full throttle. I have a barnett pressure plate which has 6 coil springs that fit on the 6 bolts that hold it
all together.
I have drained the excess engine oil which has improved the clutch slip a bit. I was wondering if I put a washer between each bolt and spring, might
this reduce the slip further by adding a bit more pressure to the plates when engaged?
Or is this a bad idea?
dont laugh but years ago when i used to run 350 lc,s i used to scuff the friction plates up on tuned engines and it worked for me. has anyone tried to add an extra plate with shorter springs?
I may be wrong, but I vaguely remember a discussion on the BEC list where the standard Yamaha plates were used with the Barnett springs....
I have fitted EBC standard clutch plates. They were new nearly 500 fairly gentle miles ago.
It behaves well at modest throttle inputs but where's the fun in that. I need to sort this before I can have the engine dynojetted, I guess.
Ditch the EBC clutch plates and go for either Yamaha or if you can afford them, Barnett clutch plates.
quote:
Originally posted by Hellfire
Ditch the EBC clutch plates and go for either Yamaha or if you can afford them, Barnett clutch plates.![]()
OK so no-one screamed "don't do it" so I did it. one 2.5mm thick 12mm washer between each spring and the top hat bolt holder thing.
Bob is very much my uncle with not a whisper of clutch slip.
Just got to sort out the carb fuelling at full throttle and the job is prety much done.
DONT!
No not really , although you you need to make sure the washers are thin enough that the springs dont go coilbound before the clutch fully
disengages, otherwise the clutch will drag, especially when its hot.
quote:
Originally posted by ChrisGamlin
DONT!
No not really
I did a similar mod to this, I put a waster under the bolt head on 3 of the 6 springs to add a bit more pre-load. I made sure they wouldnt go coil
bound first. For the other 3 springs I got some massey ferguson clutch springs of a similar size, squashed them in a vice and measured. Finding they
would go coil bound I cut them down a little. I have approxiately doubled the clamp load on the plates. I also now have a clutch pedal with a decent
amount of resistance which has dropped my reaction times by 0.2 secs on average.
BTW I did this over night between the two days ofa race meeting.
Barnett springs are a waste of money, they dont add much extra clamp force on the plates.
Carnut
my brother told me not to use EBC plates in a high stress environment after having 2 r1 sets explode on the start line..
He is using stock plates in a 200bhp race bike...
Check that the grooves in the clutch baskets have not worn so that they
have "steps" or indentations in them from the tangs around the circumference of the clutch plates.
If the plates are not free to move in these grooves, then you are overcoming the true cause of the problem by fitting stronger springs/washers etc
My mates race FZR 400 3TJ's (70 bhp ish) and used EBC friction plates, which lasted one start then fried. I had a Suzuki TL1000S (fookin'
beast) and suffered clutch slip with the standard suzuki items in. Once I had changed the springs, friction plates and drive plates for Barnett ones,
she'd lift the front wheel in forth on the throttle! Nuff said, get Barnett ones, that's my plan later in the year when I get the engine
in.
Hope this is useful info.
Cheers
what the results are..??
but EBC is an NONO..
Tks