hi everyone

ive been looking around your site and seem to have fallen for the idea of building a BEC.

i would like to build one with the Suzuki Haybusa GSXR1300 engine. now can some kind person point me in the right direction of where i can purchase a kit that has a tubular chassis (more stronger??) and one that i may be able to fit this engine.

the reason ive chosen this engine is that it is able to produce high bhp which in a light car would be really fun

im currently driving a evo8 (clicky)
but want something for the track which i can have fun in without having a huge repair/maintain cost of the evo. I did look at the K1-attack (clicky)
kit car but feel it doesn’t fit in with what i want. im looking at spending around 5k for a self build but that’s a blind estimate.

thanks in advance for any information given

cheers

jav

edited to add: how do you change your password?

[Edited on 23/5/06 by 786evo8]

alright jav Id first look at your price tag mate


5k youd use 80% of that on the engine and dry sump which the busa really needs

any of the kit manafacturers MK MNR MAC'1 etc there all 7 type cars take a look in my photo archive under r1 indy thats an MK INDY with a 99 r1 engine

you could build a fireblade version which will still 4secs to 60 which comes up in almost 1st gear


I bought most things brand new like the wheels etc etc quick release LED lights these all add up to about a 9-ten grand car

if you went for a pre 95 engine which might be down on power slightly you would have no emission tests and could upgrade when passed SVA

Ive had all my jap performance cars before and these are in a totally different league there a bit phsyco if you dont respect them

ta chris

hello there and welcome.

afriad your budget is rather low unless you alteady have an engine. the hyabusa lump is typically £2500+ and then you need bits to install it in the car and to build the rest of hte car.

Realistically to get a car on the road I would double your estimate if using that choive of engine.

cheers,

Ned.

Welcome to the madhouse!

To be honest if you are going to put a Hyabusa in you are not going to get alot of change out of 4k for the engine and ancillaries alone!!

I would suggest the whole car is realistically going to cost you more like 10k

Best bet is to have a look at MAC1, MNR, MK, GTS, Fisher, RAW and see what you think.

Rich.

I would go for an R1 engine

MK Indy

and if you ever want more power! Put NOS + Turbo on it

But your budjet might need increasing

I think that all of the MNR vortx chassis are now round tubing, I know my RT+ is, but I'm not sure on the RT. I don't think the MK chassis is round either.

5k with an R1 engine would build you a Vortx RT, but you'd be cutting corneres and not buying the nicest of everything.
There's no way you'll do it with a 'busa lump as they're around 3 grand alone.

I've just sold my evo v to build my vortx rt+ as I want a cheaper to run track animal.

Do you really need round tube with a bike engine??? I think not!

welcome aboard shipmate !
If your finished with your old car.........first dibs to me please

thanks for the warm welcome and all the reply’s

so the busa seems to be out of my price range. i heard it was the best so wanted to see what i could get away with but 10k is a bit high form me.

i think i saw the mk indy at the stoneleigh kit car show but never managed to get the details. i think they are attended anther event in mid june so i’ll pop alone for that.

with regards to the R1 how would this compare to the busa in terms of performance? i take it there is a turbo for the R1 which i could add at a later date? what kind of performance would i get from a std engine?

the reason for the tubular frame is that it is meant to be stronger but was unsure if it is overkill for a BEC??

once again thanks for the info…….im going to look into the Vortx RT kit and have a look around your site, at least now ive got a list of things i can type into the search button

cheers guys

jav

nice pics chirs, love the paddle gears on the steering!!

quote:

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Originally posted by donut
Do you really need round tube with a bike engine??? I think not!

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quote:

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Originally posted by donut
Do you really need round tube with a bike engine??? I think not!

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They have a new chassis that looks more than up to the job..

I have never heard anyone complain about their chassis flexing or not being up to the job regardless of chassis make and/or bike engine used. If they can take a V8, Honda S2000 and powerful Zetecs then a 200bhp bike engine should be no problem i would have thought.





[Edited on 23/5/06 by donut]

After two 3 figure "incidents" in an Mk chassis one included several rolls, the other 100mph+ too zero mph in 2 yards, both of which I walked away from with nothing more than a sore neck, seat belt rash and a few bruises I can testify that an MK chassis is more than up too the job, now I must go and cut chunks off things too get that engine in.......

have you thought about the zx12 engine ,only 500 pound more than an r1 .
you can turbo the r1 but it will cost you over 4k to do it.

Jav,

have a look at our website and read our build and rebuild diaries. It should give you some idea of whats involved in building an MK Indy with a bike engine. Other manufacturers will be pretty similar. Like OX says, it's worth considering the ZX12R. Slightly more BHP but slightly less torque. Overall, pretty similar performance wise. The Busa is better catered for though in the aftermarket goodies department.

Phil

[Edited on 23-5-06 by Hellfire]

Hi Jav

To answer the question about the comparative performance of an R1 and a busa, the busa will be a little quicker, but in my experience you really only notice a significant difference at very high track speeds (ie 100+mph). Half the reason is because although the R1 is 20bhp down on the busa/ZX12, its around 30kgs lighter so gains back a bit in power/weight terms.

The ZX12 is a good alternative to the busa though, and although its not as well proven on track so its hard to say 100% whether it needs a dry sump for extreme track driving, the signs look promising as there's now several cars out there with wet sumps and they havent gone pop yet I dont think.

Try getting along to a local meet or see if anyone on here will take you out for a spin, because even a blade will blow your socks off and are still very quick on track so don't discount those engines. If you're near me (north Hants / Surrey border) then Id be happy to take you for a spin.

cheers

Chris

[Edited on 23/5/06 by ChrisGamlin]

glad you likebelieve me mate as like I say I love and have had performance Jap Cars, these things are in a totally different league they do anything from a 3.5 to 4 secs to 60

remember they rev to 11.5k+ this is the part that catches people out

and you cannot beat the noise from a bike engine

The one I,m building is all home built, using an 893 blade engine for emmissions.

Mostly round tube chasis and as many ali panels as I can get as weight will be key with a low power unit.

So far cost is £3k and I can lift each end seperately with only a few pounds in weight to add now.

If it cannot make a sub 4sec 0-60 when its finished I,ll be in tears .

So far 6 months of 1 day a week... its a lot of work, you may be better off scanning Ebay for a bargin and changing out the engine.

The question you need to ask yourself is s how good are you with your hands and how patient ?

I would echo what Chris (zxrlocost) has said.

The performance is in a different league. I have had modified Impreza's in the past and they are nothing in comparison to a BEC.

I am running a stock Blade in my MK and the performance is "more than adequate" for road use. Yet to take it on a track to see if I get passed by everything else, so I may want a Hayabusa if that happens!

Don't underestimate the performance - there was a set of pictures on here a couple of days back of a chap's car who must have done just that. I think there are still bits of the car in the bushes.

Martin

Hi Mark

You've mentioned using all ali panels to save weight, but if I can make a suggestion you may want to weigh your wheels (if those 18" (?) are the ones you're going to be using?) and see how much you'd save with smaller 13/15" rims. I suspect you'd probably save more weight there than all the ali panels put together, and especially as its unsprung and rotating mass, it may well be the difference between hitting your target or not.

JUD, don't worry about the track performance, very little will be overtaking you except for other high powered Caterfields, on all but the most open circuit you'll crucify all the tintops.

cheers

Chris

[Edited on 23/5/06 by ChrisGamlin]

quote:

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Originally posted by JUD Yet to take it on a track to see if I get passed by everything else, so I may want a Hayabusa if that happens!


Martin

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Hi,

The wheels in the picture are just for pushing around on, they are on Ebay now. I have a set of 13" minilights which are going on (much lighter although the rear brakes are now an issue).

Cheers Mark

quote:

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Originally posted by donut
They have a new chassis that looks more than up to the job..

I have never heard anyone complain about their chassis flexing or not being up to the job regardless of chassis make and/or bike engine used. If they can take a V8, Honda S2000 and powerful Zetecs then a 200bhp bike engine should be no problem i would have thought.





[Edited on 23/5/06 by donut]

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having a bike engine is all the more reason to use round tubes - the weight saving is even more important than usual. Round tube is about 25% lighter than square (pi/4). Combining that with 19mm and 13mm tubing can save a lot of weight.

Stuff the busa, if you want a cheap fast build just stick an r1 in and keep your eye on the weight. Think minimalistic. Foam instead of seats etc. It all adds up. I hope to be sub 400kgs with full enclosed bodywork.

my r1 indy wet weight was 468kg

considering Ive gone for looks aswell Im well happy

that gives about

341 bhp per ton which is plenty enough and you deff cant find the cars limits only yours

How about a RH2B ?

once again thanks for all this information! i came home at 6 and stayed online till 11 (got eye strain now ha ha).

thanks phil, read most of the information on your site. will defiantly keep it as a favourite link when i need to find out what to do next, love the vids as well. build looks very good and i would be very happy if i managed to get anywhere near that standard. only one suggestions that the pics could have been a bit bigger. im sure the pic’s were getting smaller as the build progressed, especially in the rebuild part. but excellent site overall!

Thank you chirs for the very kind offer , im sure ive got a vague idea of how scary these cars are so don’t need a heart attack just yet . will defiantly try to have a spin when i attend a show later on in the year.

there is so much information im trying to sort though so i’ll keep quite for a now while i sort out which options im going to take. you guys use way to may abbreviation and engine code so ive got a list here which im trying to figure out 1st ha ha…

cheers guys


jav

quote:

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Originally posted by 786evo8
. only one suggestions that the pics could have been a bit bigger. im sure the pic’s were getting smaller as the build progressed, especially in the rebuild part.

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ooppss ha ha, i tried clicking on them in the 1st section up didnt bother after, ha ha, much better now

where abouts do you live mate

ta
chris

quote:

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Originally posted by mark chandler
The wheels in the picture are just for pushing around on

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quote:

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Originally posted by zxrlocost
where abouts do you live mate

ta
chris

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