is the output shaft in a funny place on the aprilia RSV?

also There quite down on BHP but way up on torque

is this a good thing or bad?

my new car(Imp) I wont be able to get quite as light as my MK

I was thinking the ZX12r

but the engine already in the imp looks very much like a 4cyl bike engine already


anyone know the dimensions of any good engines

ta chris

hi mate Its going in the boot if it can someone else has already done it with a fazer engine but it needed to lean like the engine does in my car

hence why I was thinking the room with the aprilia engine

Torque is good if you want lots of acceleration across the whole rev band. Max Power is good if you want lots of acceleration in the top 20% of the rev band. Of course ideally, you want both.

The aprillia RSV mille has a (slightly) wider spaced gearbox than say and R1 or Blade so you can have lower revs at motorway speeds or a really low 1st gear giving mental acceleration.

Ive got 2 rsvr engines,i have one running in a stand if anyone can tell me how to attach an mpeg video I can post it.
Another good reason for using Aprilia RSV lump is it is already dry sumped as standard,that could save you a small fortune,and the torque characteristics may be better suited to a car especially when punching out of a corner from lower speeds.

Hi Chris

Yep Id agree with everything thats been said. The Aprilia isnt as easy an install as an R1 in a 7 due to where the sprocket sits vs the tunnel - this however is of no worries to you as you wont be as constrained by tunnels etc.
I seriously toyed with the idea of using an RSV motor having ridden a couple of them. Like you say they develop bucket loads of torque low down but are a step down in outright BHP from the inline thou engines. I wouldnt let that put you off they still pull like a train and like Smart51 says theyre also suited to lower RPM cruising if you get the right diff.

Dry sumped out of the box and that engine note................. awesome.

Given up on the Dodge then mate?

Ive not even finished my 7 yet but have a real liking for a Z cars style mini...........seems to be a recurring theme with kit car builders

Rgds

Rich

[Edited on 21/7/06 by RichieC]

hi rich my new garage isnt suitable for a supercar sized build I thought it would have been

but Im doing this now

the tl is another candidate for a mid mount

piccy
Rescued attachment picture.jpg

Just thought that may help in the torque debate?

I was very close to sourcing a TL1000 motor for my build but went for the R1 for my first attempt...

I'm thinking about a TL powered VortX RT+ next with NOS...

Here's a bit of TL inspiration: -



It has a true 140bhp and 89lb.ft of torque at the back wheel!
It wheelies off the power in 6th!!!!

Froggy - what's the RSV in?

That'll be his Kitten. I only know because I recognise the seats. Froggy, how's it going by the way?

I hope they are more reliable in a car than they are in a bike . Local bike mechanic dreads them.

quote:

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Originally posted by Peteff
I hope they are more reliable in a car than they are in a bike . Local bike mechanic dreads them.

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Im going to go and see an imp today see exactly how much room Ive got to play with


I dont get that torque graph

According to most bike data the aprilia makes 100ft of torque

also having ridden one I can say it pulls better in gears than the r1 apart from the ballistic top end...

quote:

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Originally posted by zxrlocost
I dont get that torque graph

According to most bike data the aprilia makes 100ft of torque

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mine is a tl motor and makes 120hp with 85lb/ft .apart from what it looks like the kitten has some advantages over the mini from a builders point of view, first its a shed load lighter to start with ,a stock mini is around 750kg where the reliant van is 515kg ,its rear wheel drive with double wishbone front end and the fuel tank sits under the radiadtor between the chassis rails unlike the mini where it gets baked by the radiator. mine still sits on 10" wheels which gives it at least a 30kg advantage over a 13" setup . if my sums are right it should be around the 460-475 kg mark which is pretty much the same as most bec,s but i stay warm and dry

[Edited on 22/7/06 by froggy]
Rescued attachment smallpixel 001.jpg

the tl is pretty tough but the gearboxes arent that strong so ive made a chain drive unit just like a go kart using the centre of the bikes rear wheel to retain the cush drive il post pics once i get the the lobro flanges back for it.
xzr id think about weight more than anything and deffo go for chain drive as if you go for prop and sierra diff you will have the same gaering probs that other becs have unlike chain drive which you can change to suit the engine .
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its a good plan but its a lot of work ,but its an all year round car and mine will be 240bhp/tonne and 300bhp/tonne once the nos kit is fitted
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Which mini weighs 750 kgs? Mine's around 600 kgs. I know that rover managed to add a whole load of weight though.

yep thought it sounded a bit much, more like 650kg in real weight .

My ZX10's (same size as zx9 & zzr1100, but a touch smaller than the zx12) give a dimension of approx 24" between the front of the exhaust headers (foremost point of the engine) & the rear axle centreline. Don't know if that helps at all the ZX10 is dirt cheap (as is the ZZR) & gives about 137bhp & around 70lbft torque - no need to dry sump with the engines positioned the same way round as the bike, I've certainly had no problems & pull some pretty high G b4 those big back tyres will let go!

Just to add a point on mini weight the 1959 mini was lightest (around 11cwt I think which would be about 525kg) it then got heavier as the years went by. I had an autocross mini which weighed less than 400kg, helped by a very thin fibreglass roof, doorskins, rear 3/4 skins, boot & front end, it also had a very light roll cage made largely from 1&1/2" dia exhaust tube, which I don't think you'd get away with in competition nowadays!! However it did work cos I stuck it on it's roof & am still hear to tell the tale 22 years later!

I want to put a bike engine in a kitten too but would prefer to change the drive to prop rather than sorting a chain drive due to lack of skills, is it better to source a new diff (sierra and shorten the axle) or is there a better way? Would love to see more pics froggy if you have them?? Thanks

this is my third modded kitten and my last one had a fiat twin cam engine in but all the weight ruined the cars nippy handling having to use 13" wheels raised the cars c of g too much making all the extra weight even worse . going with the sierra rear beam will give you the same problems although using 13" wheels with 175/50/13 do actually fit under the arches the gearing will be on the low side which is why ive gone for a chain drive to step up the gearing to compensate for the 10" wheels.
z cars have used one of there kits in a saloon but the engine seems a lot further forward than mine
Rescued attachment 930cre2.jpg

Ok, if that is the case, what is your way of changing the axle to chain drive? e.g - have you changed the whole thing using expensive parts or done it your own way? And have you kept kitten hubs/brakes? I could look at how my uni formula student team have done it but that would mean waiting until september

i get my (diff ) back at the weekend its having key ways cut into the lobro flanges at the mo then all will become clear. as far as the front brakes go i will be using rear discs from a bike with front bike calipers on a new hub but that will be later on.
so far ive been keeping tabs on the spend and none of it is off the shelf, ive used the same 13" coilovers as my mk and its all scrapyard stuff, if you have access to a lathe then the diff part is pretty straight forward

[Edited on 25/7/06 by froggy]

there are one or two kittens with prop driven bike engines but i think the z cars way is a better bet

[Edited on 25/7/06 by froggy]