Hi Guys,

I've been offered a ZZR 1100 engine (showing 35k on the clock) for £200. It comes with 2 sets of carbs, starter & alternator but no loom, rad or oil cooler. It's been taken out of the bike as it's starting to make a 'knocking' noise. My friend who has swapped the engine (put a new one in the bike for a friend of his) says it sounds like it's coming from the bottom end but has made no further investigations.

This leads me to my 2 questions:

1, Are the ZZR 1100 engines used in the locosts, are they worthwhile or would I be better off with a 'Blade engine for ability of conversion parts etc?

2, Is £200 a good/bad deal for the suspect engine and are the repair parts (over size shells/bearings) available/expensive?

Any help is (as always) much appreciated.

Cheers,

Max

Hi Max

Firstly, the ZZR1100 is a good engine to use, pretty pokey and torquey, and has been used in BECs a fair bit, although mostly in Radical type single seater racers or grass track cars rather than 7 type cars.

The knocking is a bit worrying though to be honest, if it is a main or big end bearing thats gone its usually not as simple as throwing in a new set of shells like it is on an old X Flow. Im not sure exactly how Kawasaki do it, but I know that Honda for example have 6 different standard main bearing sizes and 6 different big end bearing sizes, all which are matched to the crank when they are fitted for closest tolerence. Also the cranks are usually coated so you cant just simply get it reground, and anyway oversize shells arent usually available even if you could.

Having said that, it could be something such as the clutch basket making noises or something else thats relatively simple to replace, in which case it would be a bargain as ZZR1100s go for fairly high money due to their use in the Radicals and grasstrack cars etc.

So the long and short of it is that if you can find out what the fault is before you buy, and its not too serious, then buy it, but if its crank related do a lot of homework into the potential costs before handing over any cash

Chris

[Edited on 28/5/03 by ChrisGamlin]

Max,

I used to have a ZZR1100 - engines were superb.

Is the engine restricted or unrestricted (restricted was the Big 4 Gents Agreement not to exceed 125bhp), unrestricted had 147 bhp and was obtained by using the carb tops from a ZXR750 - allowed slided to fully open.

(IMHO) I think the engine would be great in a Locost (V8 meself but others on here love 'em).

As for rumbling I think your best bet would be to have a chat with an engine rebuilders (look in the back of MCN) to get an idea of what it might be and cost.

Also check out prices of complete engines from breakers (with ALL ancilliaries), then do a bit of maths to see what works out your best financial route. Repairs to engine might come to a grand, in which case you'd be better looking elsewhere. If it can be fixed for 50 quid and you can get the rest of the bits you need for another 50, then £300 for a ZZR1100 may well be a bargain.

One last point, if these engines are looked after, there's no reason why they shouldn't do intergalactic (read 100k) mileages.

Knackered after 35k makes you wonder what it's been doing!!

Hope this of some help.

ATB

Simon

also try part finder for s/h crank and shels re built my gpz 900 £85 to the door get price and then make a choice with s/h bits or new oe parts for kwak be seated when you get the price Lenny

Thanks guys, I've spoken to my mate and he's suggested that I take the engine and strip it down to take a look before parting with the folding stuff. I've not worked on bike engines before but loads of experience with cars. Is there anything bike specific I need to look out for? Should happen in the next couple of weeks, if there is anything of interest I'll report back.

Simon, how can I tell if it's the big horsepower lump (doubtful as would have probably been mentioned to me), are there obvious markings/numbers on the carbs that I can check?

Cheers,

Max

Max,

Having owned the bike about 12 years ago, I couldn't say, but I reckon your best bet would be remove air box, if fitted, and open the throttle (using linkage) whilst looking into carb venturi. If slide goes all the way up, I reckon you'll have the unrestricted version. If not, then only 125bhp:-)

ATB

Simon

Thanks Simon, much appreciated!!

Max

I've bought a zzr1100 for my grasstrack.
Can anyone tell me whats the best solution for the ream air system?
Do I need to buy new carbs as my wallet's already hurting

Max, if it's a knocking noise as opposed to a loud rattle, I would bet it's #3 big end. It's the Achille's heel of this model. The oil gallery takes a funny route. It probably only affects a small percentage of engines, but is a known trouble spot. Pull the sump off, and have a look at #3 bearing. If the crank is clear, throw a complete set of new bearings in regardless. I've done this on several.
If you end up stripping the engine, remove the balance shaft and weld up the hole in the cases. The balance shaft does nothing other than help stop the rear view mirrors on the bike from vibrating.
These are a stonkingly fine engine. If there was another problem with the early ones, it was a weak 2nd gear. Not actually the gear itself, but the dogs. For some reason, Kawasaki changed the number of dogs on the early 2nd gears. Post "C" model will be OK. It's not dificult to rectify a mushy 2nd gear, you'll need to split the cases, and regrind the dogs, or alternatively, fit ZX10 parts.
Drill the front right side of the head, tap it, and run an oil hose (low pressure) back to the return line going into the sump.
Fit the sump and oil pick up from a GPZ 900. It's identical, but 74mm shallower, which gets the engine sitting nice and low. Fit a post 98 pressure relief valve.
Use fully synthetic oil, and you'll never have oiling problems again (use mineral oil until new parts are bedded in).


eganronan, see my post in ZX9 fueling (or what ever the thread's called) about closing off the air jets. Fit a good aftermarket foam filter in place of the bike's airbox. You don't need to buy a needle/jet kit, they're extortionally expensive.
Weld a bung into the headers at the first Y pipe, and hook up a 3 wire (hot wire) Lambda sensor (either new or from a scrap car) to a temporary air/fuel gauge. A few test runs will show you where you need to adjust the carb/replace jets.