Hi All,
does anyone have any photos of gear linkages for bike engine?
specifically in the engine bay, including the pivots on the engine cradle etc.
I would love it if they just happened to be "mid-build" of a '96 Fireblade engine in a MAC#1 worX car!!!

cheers,
Steve.

you could use a cable from MNR...

makes life easier

I'd much rather have the direct feel of rose jointed ali rods, plus, I'm sure the cable from mnr isn't as cheap as the "already in my possession" rods...

thanks for your help?

Steve.

Have a look at the build and rebuild diaries on our website (Link below). Should be a few pictures in there.

Phil

haha
I just happen to have your site open already (permanently at the moment!!!)
I'll have another look through as, after reading all of it a few times, I couldn't recall seeing a pic of the linkage?
like I say I'll have another look through, cheers...

Steve

a push/pull cable from Cabletec will have just the same feel as rods and is about 30quid

thats what I'd do

as before £30 and prob P+P on top isn't already in my hand price.
please anyone with any photos of what I actually have rather than suggesting things I don't have???
thanks (hellfire) phil, but you have a different linkage to me. Yours is attached to body/tunnel - mine is located on the engine cradle and the parts are totally different. thanks anyway...

Steve.

or paddle shift it like me with an aprilia rs250 brake lever bolted to my top engine mount and rose joints with alloy threaded bar

that was with an r1 engine

couple of pics in archive

Hi,

heres our MAC1 linkage on our blade


linkage1

and


linkage2

Ed

[Edited on 29/12/06 by esn163]

Thanks Ed,
Your photees have been the (only) closest so far, but from what I can make out, my mount is different to yours, mine being on the engine cradle itself, virtually above the gear selector rod itself..

jeez, what I wouldn't give for a build manual for this car!!!!!

Steve.

i think the worx already has the bracket labeled in the top pic welded into the chassis because colin had to make this up specially to fit the indy - this is probably why it is slightly different but will probably be a similar system that it is designed to fit

HTH


Ed

Yes, you are partly right (I think) - I think that "the bracket" in question is on my engine cradle, but when I piece the parts together in what seems like the obvious way, the ali rod between pivot in "the bracket" and selector rod is 90 degrees out, and just doesn't make sense???

Steve

Sorry, not very mac1 or blade specific, but this is how i did mine ( ST ZX9 ), might give you some ideas.



Description

Description


Description

gearlink1


gearlink2


gearlink3

gearlink4

there are a couple of photos of my linkage in my photo archive. the cables are closer to £50, the £30 ones have got far to much flex in them!

Thanks for photos, really clear and mid build, but now I'm thinking that I should of just asked for photos of JUST Mac#1 worX cars, as only photos of them will help I think as I want to use what I already have. I would take a photo, but it's a bit wet out there for my camera!, showing you what I'm working with. To be honest I think that it would work the way I have it if I could turn the "rose joint" type linkages 90 degrees as then it (should) all fit together IMO...
thanks to you guys that sent in photos of the releveant images...
As before if anyone has images of gear linkages of specifically worx cars with the pivot bracket on the engine cradle then please get them on!!!

Cheers,
Steve.

Whoops, sorry thought you meant paddleshift linkage.
This is a pic of the ST supplied gear change linkage. It should be fairly obvious how it bolts on (the actual change mechanism bolts vertically on the outer drivers footwell) and is just a tube rotating in a larger tube, with a nylon 'bearing' at each end.


Description

worX have you looked in my archive and read my comments

my pivot was above the gear selector shaft

slightly bent so at an angle

do you 100% want need a gear lever not paddle shift

I understand what your saying about using what youve got

but these are all tried and tested ways and weve all got slightly different cradles or engines etc

I actually read one of your previous posts with pics of your linkage in it and it isn't similar enough to me for it to be relevant to this stage in my build, I just checked again and it's not the same as the MAC#1 linkage, which I already have, and therefore no use to me at this time, thanks anyway, I appreciate the advice offered...

cheers,
Steve.

ok mate

have you got any pics

Before I went in the cars with both I wanted a paddle shift, and now I believe that I could change gear a lot quicker with a gear lever, and think it may weigh a little less in the car. so I think I'll stick to it for now thanks.

Cheers,
Steve.

check back in 2 mins mate, I'll just take some pics...

cheers
Steve

youve got to do it how your happy

but you cant beat keeping two hands on the wheel and a paddle change with movement of a few mm

please click below for a view of my photos, I thought it would be easier to upload large images here rather than in this post

http://www.p4nts.co.uk/help

cheers
Steve

well to get the best leverage and most accuracy
your L bracket needs to be pushing as good as straight down on the gear lever

have a fiddle with the lever and see what angle runs best turn it upside down etc

youd have to make another lever if you were having a lever gear change wouldnt you

does the L bracket work if you turned it upside down and ran the bar straight up from the gear lever

you may need a longer bar

you need to decide how you want it to change gear first

Like I said earlier it's probably me thats just not getting it - I have tried the L shape powder coated bracket both way rounds and it still doesn't seem right - if you take another look at the Photos, have a look at the angle of the ends coming off the ali rods, as this seems to be the biggest thing in my way - if one end was 90 deg further round (and the L shape bracket at the right angle [couldn't hold it and take pics]!) I reckon it would fit ok?

Steve

take it the rose joints dont turn then so you cant angle them differently?

Id see what mac 1 say as i can see where your coming from

I've tried twisting them, one end in a vice and the end just in my hand as I didn't want to give them beans just in case it's not meant and I'm missing something.
At least you know what I mean now - it was only the fact that it didn't seem willing to turn that I was doubting the mechanical aspects of it??!!??

Steve

Hi
this is how ours is fitted but may be different to yours since your bracket is on the cradle. I think we have the L shaped bracket the other way around to you but in your setup it might foul the engine. Perhaps the worx needs a shorter L bracket or selector peg?



Description

HTH

Ed

just tried it in the vice again, this time with an adjustable spanner at the other end, once again not giving it beans, and it doesn't seem keen! I personally think that the ends have been glued in.......

cheers for your suggestions anyway...

Steve

Thankjs for the adapted photo.
I had my bracket that way round initially as it was what seemed right, it was only my mate Desperation that turned it this way in the photo!
the problem either way round, as I said above, is the fact that the Ali rose jointed ends both point the same way, and as I am going across a 90 degree plain shift it can't work? IMO...

cheers,
Steve

[Edited on 29/12/06 by worX]

I'll have to post a pic off my scaptor in it's fab and rather sickly colour scheme...he he

can you do circuits yet??

Missus looks well worried there in the kitchen window

[Edited on 29/12/06 by macnab]

hi steve the rose joints should be on some kind of threaded bar

on mine I used 8mm threaded bar with some 8mm alloy sleeve to add a bit of stength

then you screw the rose joint on but before that put a nut each end before the rose joint you can then tighten this up against the rose joint when its in the desired position

you can unscrew the rose joint a little then tighten the nut up against them if you wanted a bit more length in the bar

I cant imagine yours arent threaded

flash them with a blow torch

then just give them a shock/ unscrew on the vice

as for your lever speak to MAC1

thanks ZXR
I wondered about them being threaded as that is the way everyone else seems to be, but I can see the tiniest bit of what looks like glue in between joint and ali tube, and from the weight and feel of it, I'd say there was nothing inside it - I suppose that it's prob best to wait and speak to MAC1 if I get a reply from my mails. I swear if I had a build manual for this car, I'd be a damn sight further along with my build...

cheers again,
Steve

steve its not at the right angle anway

so id just heat up rose joint
put it in a vice and turn it(undo obv) with a shock etc

unless welded theres got to be something going into the rose joint otherwise would break under pressure

build manual whats that an MK photocopied bit of a4 paper that I DIDNT GET

I'll give it a go now and see how I get on...
build manual - at least you had the excuse of MK doing their "usual" standard of service, I have been exposed to myself - I thought I was getting a different class of service from MAC1, but inspite of them being a couple of super blokes, have to say not a lot is different...

Steve