Well i started the engine the other day only for a second mind as the oil pressure was showing 50-60 psi which obviously wasnt right it turned out the sender unit wasnt earthed as being remote mounted it wasnt getting an earth from the engine.

I earthed the gauge and it showed 0 which is more like it, tried turning engine over again and the gauge didnt move so now im worried and so gave Pace a ring to see if everything is present and correct with the dry sump system...

Turns out i have plumbed it up wrong which is to say the least a bit annoying as the hose and fittings wern't cheap and to route them wasnt easy either.

Pace have been helpful so far and i am led to beleive there are gonna help us out with swapping any fittings i may need to change.

What did you do wrong?

Pace dry sump kit is a pain to fit, especially routing all the aeroquip fittings...

Wish there was an easier way, if I can help at all let me know..

the pipes dont bend very easy

And I was going to ask you for help with the plumbing!!!!!! What did you do wrong as fitting the hoses is one of my next jobs.

Also how do you measure the BSP fitting is it the thread size or the internal hole I/D

Carl

This is a good site for anybody thinking about dry sumping a ZX12

What does the inside of a dry sump tank look like.

Cheers Carl

quote:

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Originally posted by carlgeldard
This is a good site for anybody thinking about dry sumping a ZX12

What does the inside of a dry sump tank look like.

Cheers Carl

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Have you got any photos as I need to know/confirm what pipe goes were.

Pace have now faxed my a diagram which i will post on here soon (just need to scan it).

But basically i plumbed my oil cooler in between the tank and the pump and it should apparently be in between the scavage return line.

I explained this to my Dad who doesn't think its gonna make any difference especially with oil pressure as there should still be a constant flow of oil .

But im not one to argue with pace especially as i bought everything from them so they should know how it is put together.

Will post the pic shortly.

Just want to get this straight...

You plumbed the cooler in the feed from the tank to the pump...

Mine is plumbed between the pump and the tank on the return line to the tank...

You still have the oil/water heat exchanger in the main pressure feed anyway, so in reality, the cooler can fit anywhere in the "low pressure" part of the system, but obviously better in the return line to the tank as this then cools the oil held in the tank... and doesnt hinder supply to the pump.

You can then put your oil temp gauge sender in the tank...



[Edited on 4/1/07 by G.Man]

Gman

I was going to put mine from the lower rear union on the pump that goes to the top of the tank. But then I don't know what goes were as I don't have any instructions yet.

Carl

Carl

thats where mine is plumbed...

On the return feed to the top of the tank

It sounds dumb i know but yeah i did plumb it into the pressurised part but i was only doing as told over the phone from pace obviously some wires got crossed but this is not something i would have just listened to willey nilley.

Anyways the diagram would have help if supplied with the kit. I didnt have a chance today but will post up tommorrow.

G.Man

How have you put your oil temp sender in the tank ?
Was some alloy welding required ?
Also can i ask what you did with the crank case breather with regards to any sort of one way pressure valve?

Cheers

mini k&n style filters on the tank/crankcase breathers

Just to stop them sucking in dust..

oil temp is just a boss welded into the tank...

PS. Forgot to say, you can attach the crankcase breather to the klean air intake on the rocker cover..

That is "alledged" to give a few bhp gains, however, I closed off my klean air system because the back fires on overrun were too big and the headers got VERY hot...

So there was no kinda of valve on the crank case breather as i remember speaking with Pace a few months ago and apparently they fit one, i will be speaking with them again soon so will double check.

Here is the pic as requested:



[Edited on 7/1/07 by the moa 2]

Just as I expected, but what does the -10 and -12 stand for and how close is close for the tank location.

Cheers Carl

Just a guess, but does the -12 and -10 refer to the Jap thread sizes for the connections? JIC dash sizes?

See http://www.speedflow.co.uk for info?

HTH

Mike

quote:

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Originally posted by Guinness
Just a guess, but does the -12 and -10 refer to the Jap thread sizes for the connections? JIC dash sizes?

See http://www.speedflow.co.uk for info?

HTH

Mike

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Can I ask you zx12r guys what water pump you are using?

Mine, which is a bosch, might not be up to the job...

Thanks in advance..

This may be dumb question, but here goes!

Why do you want the tempreature of the oil in the tank? Wont that be the coolest area? Would have thought you would want to see the high tempreature areas??? Surely it dosent matter how cool the oil is, but how hot?

Or am I being blonde?

For me, its about seeing the temperature of the oil that is about to enter the engine... Not how hot it is as it leaves the engine and heads off to the oil cooler...

Essentially, I guess it doesnt really matter, as you just adjust your mind to deal with a higher or lower max temperature based on the position of the sender...

I suppose it would be good to install the temp sender in the dry sump pan, but i was concerned that the highly effective scavenging would remove too much oil to make this viable...

Anyway, Marc Norden suggested the oil tank as the best place, so that's what I went with...

Its very simple to move it if need be...

http://www.pellgenesis.com/Apr-04a.htm

he has done the same with his zx12r racer..

I am using the "Craaaaiiigg David" or smething like that Electric water pump and controller.

I have no experience if it works well yet only time well tell. Something which we are having problems with at the moment is with the thermostat.

You have to take out the mechanical thermostat to enable a constant flow of water and replace it with a wire thing which goes into the top engine block then comes out and you slip over your rubber water hose and after two attempts we cant seal it, it very slowly seeps out so as soon as theres any presure its not gonna hold.

You probably dont understand what i said above but i will post a picture tommorrow.

Yep, I understand

used to do the same thing with other engines...

try some silicon sealant or teflon tape around the wire where the hose clamp will be..

I can't remember what make it is, but the variable fan controller on my MGB has something similar. It has a curved bit of rubber that sits between the coolant hose and the casing and has a tiny little channel in it for the wire to go through. It's never leaked and came as part of the kit for it.

had another look at it tonight took the coolant pipe off and it looked fine as if it would have sealed, but there is just the smallest of lines where its not quite filled.

What we did was use a combination of silicone and a peice of rubber hose which we cut and used the wire to fill the gap we had cut and then siliconed that . It was a very awkward and bodge kind of job and it failed because of that.

It didnt leaked for a couple of days and was fine but then it did.

I dont want to do it again without being convinced its gonna work as its such a job draining the coolant each time.


Anyway managed to just about get my oil lines sorted didnt work out too bad just need to swap 1 fitting and were there.

[Edited on 7/1/07 by the moa 2]

i never had one leak with just clamping the wire with the silicone hose and a tiny amount of teflon tape..

Not had ago at the water hose yet but received my hose and fitting from pace today and they didnt charge me anything so well pleased with there helpful customer service.



[Edited on 12/1/07 by the moa 2]

Ordered the davies craig ewp80, should be better than the crappy bosch which doesnt flow enough water...

PS.I am gonna remove thermostat and run full time