Board logo

Oil for Fireblade 919RRV (97)
mike smith1 - 21/5/07 at 10:50 AM

As you can probably tell in my other post ref uprating clutch springs i'm going to need some oil as i want to change this when i do the springs.

I haven't got the manual with me and i cannot remember the grade etc.

I know not to use fully synthetic.

Any recommendations / preference of brands etc

Mike


worX - 21/5/07 at 11:02 AM

just get semi synthetic bike oil from a bike shop for the '97 Blade, or if you find them a bit dear, halfords etc

a lot of people go on about how important all the oils are but it's all relative and pretty much any semi will be fine Mike!

Steve

[Edited on 21/5/07 by worX]


mark.s - 21/5/07 at 12:46 PM

Andy Bates (AB Performance ) recommends Casrol GPS.....trust me he knows his stuff

[Edited on 21/5/07 by mark.s]


MOz - 21/5/07 at 01:03 PM

Castrol GPS was wot was recommended to me when I changed the bird springs...

Seems to have done the trick.....

Any bike specific semi should be fine...

MOz


higgsti - 21/5/07 at 02:14 PM

used castrol gps and shell semi synthetic no probs with either


andrew.carwithen - 21/5/07 at 03:41 PM

Yep, another here who used Castrol GPS on Andy Bates recommendation.


asn163 - 21/5/07 at 05:21 PM

Hi Mike, another vote for Castrol GPS here.

Are you on the road yet?

Simon


higgsti - 21/5/07 at 05:39 PM

because blade clutches dont like fully synthetic it causes clutch slip.castrol gps /shell advanced vsx are what ive used in my blade and busa without problems although i did change it every 3000 mile


worX - 21/5/07 at 11:26 PM

I was told this by a guy that could of been lying his arse off Chris so don't hold me to it, but:

you shouldn't really mix your grades of oils - ie normal should stick with normal, and semi with semi - the reason for this (I was told) is that the man made oils (synthetics obv.) can break down the carbon deposits that have built up and have been left round the engine over the years/miles and now are in a relatively hardened state and therefore can perhaps clog and cause premature wear.

Like I say, don't hold me to this, and obviously the effect of this would have less of a step between semi and fully than what it would of had between normal and fully etc!

Steve

quote:
Originally posted by chris mason
might open a can of worms but why not fully synthetic, i've run all my bike engine on it and never had any problems whatsoever, seeing as though the job the oil does is very important to life of your engine, why go for anything else, buy the expensive good stuff (motul/putoline/mobil/redline) and you'll have no problems, cheaper stuff may be ok too, but i've never used it

Chris