just wondering what oil those on here run in their busa? Is the favour towards FSyn or SSyn?

Running Silkolene Pro 4 Plus 5W-40 in mine. This is fully synth.

thats what I run...

Thar ya go then!!!!

ahhh, but there is a reason I ask...

Lets just get everyone's position on this 1st

mmm. Intrestink.......

i ve just filled mine with Rock oil guardian Semi synthetic oil 10 - 40

no other reason other than Big cc recomend it and in the busa manual it recomends a 10 - 40

cheers

I Have an R1 and have (apart from running period) put 10W40 synthetic oil in it. I would concur bikes typically prefer the 10W40, especially if given a hard time on track for example. Normally the oil has been Castrol R4 but have also used Redline and others. No problems and engine was described as near mint when rebuild last year.

Some people worry about clutch slip with synthetic, I personally have no problems, all you do need to do is soak the plates in good mineral based oil first (or semi synth, its a fancy name for mineral oil).

Cheers

Paul

Having inspected the clutch plates I feel the silkolene pro-4 FS 5-40 is too light. The clutch plates have a bluey tint - too much blue for my likeing. I have planned to move to SS 10-40 ... just wanted too see what others used/general conscensus

At normal running temps there wont be any difference in 10-40 and 5-40. The lower number in the latter is the winter figure, ie viscosity from cold. So at colder temps the oil will be slightly thinner then former at start up.

As for the differences between mineral, semi and fully synth:-

3) What are the differences, in layman's terms, between mineral, semi-synthetic and fully-synthetic engine oil? (In terms of structure and performance.)

Before we get into details, the first thing to realise that there is no chalk and cheese difference between mineral and synthetic based oils. After all, the chemical compounds which make mineral engine oils so much better are themselves synthetic.
Synthetic lubricant bases are stepwise improvements on mineral oil, with more desirable properties and fewer undesirable ones. The second important point is that there's no one thing called 'synthetic'! There are several different types of synthetic lubricant, and to say something like: 'the Supergrunt GTI TURBO must have a full synthetic' is meaningless unless the 'expert' explains what sort of synthetic he means.

Equally, to imply that dreadful things will happen if the 1970 RV8 is run on anything other than good’ ole mineral oil is ridiculous. It may not need a 2007 synthetic, but it isn't going to come to any harm if the owner uses a 2007 synthetic!

The most basic type of synthetic is really a special mineral oil. Known as 'hydrocracked' bases, these are made in oil refineries by putting certain types of mineral fraction through special processing, so they cost more than the usual mineral types but not much more. They are useful because they resist evaporation at high temperatures. Although
used for years for genuine technical reasons, they are now popular with marketing men because the magic sexy word 'synthetic' can legitimately be printed on the label without spending much on the oil inside the can!

Yes, all low-cost 'synthetics' contain anything from a few percent to 20 percent (i.e. 'semi-synthetic' of special mineral oil. Using fairly simple chemical compounds or gases from oil refineries or other sources, it is possible to 'synthesise' or build up tailor-made lubricant molecules which have very desirable characteristics, such as great resistance to cold, heat, evaporation losses or excessive thinning as they get hot. These are the true synthetics, and the two that are used in engine oils are PAOs (poly alpha olefins) and esters.

Neither is cheap! PAOs are related to mineral oils, and are the ideal carriers for all the chemical compounds used in mineral oils. Because they do not gel at very low temperatures, all genuine 0W-something oils have to be based on PAOs to pass the 0W test at a sub-arctic -35C.

Esters were originally made for jet engine lubricants, and to this day all jet oils are ester-based. Although similar in performance to PAOs, they have a valuable extra trick: they are good lubricants and help to protect metal surfaces. Esters help with transmission and valve train lubrication. 100% fully synthetic oils are actually quite rare, probably because they are very expensive to make, and even more expensive to buy.
Even so, an ester/PAO with a very shear stable multigrade polymer is the ultimate oil for high output engines that are worked hard, which means racing.

The above from Opie Oils.

Sure the bluing on the clutch is not due to slip?

[Edited on 6/5/08 by iiyama]

Blueing on the clutch plates is normal.

Coose, u for Haggis this Sept? Last time I saw u guys, you had the flying gear attire, tops and tails :D

Is that Tim of NI7ers? If so, how are you doing? I think the last time I saw you was at Autosport last year (sans flying goggles!)?

Nah, I'm unfortunately not doing any tours this year as the Striker has now gone and Mrs Coose is due to give birth on Thursday!

But, that doesn't mean to say we won't be back.... A BEC Fury/Phoenix is on the cards in the next few years, and I've just started restoring Mrs Coose's mk1 Mini. So, as I'm now a member of tour-org it gives me the right to come along whatever the vehicle!

(or the truck, bearing in mind how much I used it on the last Haggis tour.... )

ohhh yeeessss.... tis me.

Have been trying to post to tour 7, but keeps failing. Still peruse all the posts tho. Haven't had time to sort out subscription. Have enuff on my plate keeping JJ on a leash

well, I'm sure we'll see you on the next mini tour, in the emerald isle. Ps.. don't wear the tops and tails and speak in a PR accent when you get lost in the burbs of Belshaft- you'll most likely get knee capped