Sitting at my desk at the moment daydreaming out paddle shift systems, so ondering is someone can help me.

How much leverage (movement) do you really need on a Paddle shift system, for the cable to change gear.

I have a zx9r C1 engine, if that makes any difference.

Cheers
Craig

surely it depends on the setup.
How much leverage you have on the geabox and the paddle. But this needs to. So if you have a short linkage on the gearbox then less movement is needed.

Cheers Mike,

I appreciate that there are many variables involved, but as I am at my desk a couple of hours from my car, I was wondering what others with similar set-ups are using.

As far as I know, everything on the bike engine/gearbox is standard.

I have just finished making a paddleshift for my ZX9 C1 engine.....

I have remade the gearlever arm to change gear with 3/4" of movement...

This is fairly easy to achieve on a small paddle.....I have made the pivot on my paddles adjustable so I can change how much leverage I have on the fly...

If you want pics etc U2U me..

Several hours with a saw and file makes for some nice results!

Tegwin, you have U2U
Cheers
Craig

I don't have up to date photos, but I figured the easiest way would be to make the rocker/fulcrum points changeable.

Have a look in my photo archive and then in the Paddle folder.

Just for good measure I also made the point on the Paddle symetrical so I could turn it round and adjust the "throw" and then also made the clutch spigot arm with multiple holes.

I've just realised the above response is more suitable for a rod change system but it's practice that could also be put into place with a cable change.

I personally prefer rod change for feel and I also wanted it in case I fitted a flatshifter...

Steve

we are midway through building ours, we have mounted of the bottom of the steering coloum using the holes that hold the bonnet release, we will be using rod and rose joints. I will probably invest in a flat shifter system once everything is up and running. Once the pivot points and basic movements are worked out the force needed can be alltered also as mentioned travel can be adjusted to suit.

photos so far

Macspeedy, thanks for he photo.. I am being very stupid here, but i am still trying to see where your rod will be joined to your paddle, and how the pivot will work. :dunce:

Macspeedy, thanks for he photo.. I am being very stupid here, but i am still trying to see where your rod will be joined to your paddle, and how the pivot will work. :dunce:

the rod will be 2-3 inches from centre line on the left, will post more over the weekend.

cheers, it is much appreciated.

update on the paddles

2

3

4

will this give a right for up a gear?

Have you finished this yet? If so did it give the right gear selection (ie right for up)
Also how have you mounted the lower bell crank?

Cheers

That paddle looks very thin. I kept bending mine while on my Euro trip and am in the process of making a thicker version. It's surpring the grip you have when pushing hard

- Jim

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Originally posted by macspeedy
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