Ive been looking closely at the Audi struts I got and seem to have hit a snag. Basically the steering knuckle (more like a bracket really) is up very high (just below the spring) and will have to be relocated.

I was keen to use the bottom part of the strut because driveshafts and lower balljoints naturally fit straight in. But Im sure an SVA inspector isnt going to be particularly pleased by welded steering knuckles.

Just wondering if I should look for something with a knuckle lower down (like Alan's MR2 strut). Thoughts anyone?

What's wrong with welding one on, assuming reasonable thickness material is used?

Why not ask the SVA people now?

I was going to answer this by saying I'd seen a welded on steering arm which looked good.......but I couldn't recall where.....now you reminded me...it was you KB...

If are going to trust your life on a home welded chassis with home welded suspension then this is no different IMO.

Good welding, and plenty of run length by design, you should be OK....

But, as KB says, the SVA guys should be able to clarify.

I hope you're not referring to the picture showing the steering arm tacked on by a couple tiny welds... It's that way because I'm going to double-check bump steer before final welding. It's good for another reason, that I recently changed my mind on how much Ackerman to use.

How much are you using?

Don't worry I could see it was just tacked......I meant the idea of the square tube arm looked good......plenty of weld length available....

Ackerman?...I guess it will be the same as per the standard MR2....there isn't really anything I've changed except perhaps the fore and aft position of the rack (slightly)...

KB how much ackerman are you planning on using? Allan Staniforth was very insistant that I use full ackerman on my car. My uprights allow me to bolt on different steering arms so it will be easy to experiment.

Usual thx to you all for replying. I will toodle off and get the SVA regs ASAP.

Ill definitely go with cut down Struts on the back with relocated knuckles for the non-steer arms.

At the front I was tempted to use another pair of cut-down Audi struts but not sure if i can. The problem is that the strut will no longer be attached to a driveshaft - leaving a rather large hole in it!

Obviously the strut couldnt come off as it would be attached to the wishbones but I guess it would still need some sort of 'stub axle' running thru it for the disc to spin on.

Any thoughts on this or should I simply use something like Sierra uprights- which might be a lot less hassle!

chris

I use the same wheel bearings and drive flanges all the way around (of a Mitsubishi EVO 4 wheel drive car). On the front I have two machined stub axles in place of the drive shafts. In my case I have to run then as they help keep the bearings in place.

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Originally posted by ProjectLMP
KB how much ackerman are you planning on using? Allan Staniforth was very insistant that I use full ackerman on my car. My uprights allow me to bolt on different steering arms so it will be easy to experiment.

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quote:

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Originally posted by kb58
..........."At some point you have to stop dicking with stuff and just build the damn thing."...........

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quote:

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Originally posted by 8smokingbarrels
Ive been looking closely at the Audi struts I got and seem to have hit a snag. Basically the steering knuckle (more like a bracket really) is up very high (just below the spring) and will have to be relocated.

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Yes indeed, Im going for double WB.

I have since moved the steering arm down without too much fuss although positioning horizontally in both planes was tedious.

The main problem Im having at the moment is the large KPI angle which is going to make the upper wishbone very short.

This could be resolved by reducing the angle to the vertical of the upper wishbone brackets (i.e. placing them more or less directly above the lower brackets).

The locost has its upper brackets mounted outwards at 19 degrees from the vertical. Can anyone tell me what effect reducing this angle would have on things. For example would there be less gain in negative camber during compression?

Thanks

chris

If I follow what you're saying, you'd have increased neg in bump, and increased pos in droop with horrible things going on in roll.
It depends at what height you mount the upper inner pivots though.
You'd be better off drawing it in half scale on cardboard, with moving elements (using drawing pins for pivots), and overlaying it on a roll simulator. That way you can play around with just about all but the lower inner pivots, and see what difference 0.5mm can make (unless you have a CAD programme, which would be even more accurate).

Thx Rorty

Sorry didnt explain myself too well- should have said that FU1/2 is angled 19 degree from the vertical. I was thinking of reducing this angle (make FU1/2 more vertical)because of the large KPI angle that my audi upright has.

However Ive decided to modify the upright (read: chop the crap out of it! ) to reduce the KPI. Ive also realised that i was being a bit thick by thinking of using trackrod end as the upper balljoint. Since it is going on the BACK of the car- I should use the usual C bracket welded to the top of the upright and bush/tube on the wishbone. My concern is: will this be enough to stop the wheel turning (inwards/outwards) as the lower part of the upright will still have the original balljoint.

I can still weld on the steering arm/knuckle and connect this to the chassis as a 'non-steer' system. However as Alan pointed out there is the problem of bump steer to overcome and id prefer to avoid that one if possible

Hope u all can follow what im blethering on about!

chris

Again, if I understand correctly, just employing a narrow double-shear joint at the top of the upright, and a single balljoint at the bottom will not cut the cheese. You need a good wide base on the upright to accomodate the twisting forces,
Perhaps you could weld a length of hollow bar to the bottom, and thread the ends to take rod ends in single shear.