Thanks for the advice chaps I tried it all to no avail and am too embarrased to say why it did not work in the first place! Needless to say it was wooly thinking on my part.

There are photos in my archive and I was going to describe them using a link but I can't get the blessed thing to work.

The secret was in directing the linkage on the shortest and straightest route through the center of the v in the engine with only one universal joint and that at a very shallow angle - about 160 degrees.

I also did away with the usual translator at the gearnob end on the basis of the fewer moving parts the better.

The gearstick is welded on to the lateral shaft and the whole assembly slides back and forth in the rod ends.

All the levers and bearings are at the gearbox end where there is plenty of room to experiment with different motion ratios. After making sure the links were at right angles to the levers it works a treat.

I got so carried away with myself I went out and bought a Quaiffe close ratio gearset from Chris Cole at Mach 1 so its the engine and box our again for the umpteenth time.

Will it ever finish?

Hey Kid,

I see you have inverted the box, did you flip the diff or something?

I have a UN1 lying around which might need this job done, so the question is, is it easy o not?

Grtz Thomas

Yup diff is turned round. Easy to do but you have to shim the bearings to give the right backlash. Get it wrong and the gears strip ( been there).

UN1 manual available from Alpine club site giving details how to do it - think its on this site somewhere as well

I have that manual allready.

But have never actually opened up a diff to do the works, hence the question.

I think I haven't got the adjustable type box, in which case the manual states, you cannot adjust it but it must be checked..... and then nothing, so what if it's not correct?

grtz Thomas

[Edited on 7/8/07 by thomas4age]

[Edited on 7/8/07 by thomas4age]

Bit confusing that manual. As far as I understand all the casings are the same and one of the diff output bearings is adjustable for bearing preload when fitting new bearings.
Apparantly these bearings are bombproof and rarely replaced which makes the adjustment academic.
However when swopping the crown wheel round it now rests against the other bearing, the non adjustable one, so making it "non adjustable"
That nice man Chris at Mach 1 explained to be that all that is required is to ease the bearing off the Crown wheel side (using tyre levers) and pack it with shims untill the backlash is per the manual.
It's really easier to do than explain and I've removed the bearing and inserted shims more or less as the manual and just have to reassemble the box. Apparantly this is a process that has to be repeated a few times before it's right
So I'm going to finish it tomorrow I'll let you know how it goes.