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Engine Help
Harvey1981 - 30/1/05 at 11:17 PM

Hi all startin out on my engine rebuild at the mo and would like to know what do i need to replace/upgrade to get the most power out of my 1300 x flow to possibly race in the future.

Want to do it all now while i have it in bits and i got the money.

All suggestions would be welcome.

The lump now is bog standard 1300.


GParkes - 31/1/05 at 12:31 PM

It’s a big area! Firstly the most important thing you will need to do to be able to race is change the camshaft to the Kent control cam, I can’t remember the exact one but its in the Locost regs at www.750mc.co.uk. Depending on the engine you have, you may need to change the carb/inlet manifold. I think probably all racers use the Weber twin choke carb (make sure the venturi sizes comply with regs). A lot of drivers bore out the engines to +90 to maximise the capacity, although going to +60 allows you to bore out to +90 next time instead of buying another block. It is also worth upgrading the big end bolts, ARP for ultimate strength or I went for the lotus ones that are much cheaper and an upgrade over standard. Check the cylinder head to make sure the valve sizes comply to the regs. If you are going for a no expense spared rebuild I assume you will be renewing all bearings and checking the crank to ensure it does not need a regrind. You should get the crank, rods, and pistons balanced. Also check the weight of the flywheel and get it lightened if it is too heavy (min weight is in the regs).

Once the thing is built, get it rolling road tuned to ensure that power is maximised and the carb is set up correctly.

Is that enough info for now? It’s a start at least, I’m sure others will add their advice, I’m not sure what your engine knowledge is!

Regards

Gavin


stevebubs - 31/1/05 at 01:07 PM

Harvey,

I have a 1360 in the garage with an unleaded GT Head (Ported / Polished)

Went really well in my fury and just gathering dust now. Only has 1000 miles on it.

Spent over £700 having a new crank, bottom end fully balanced, head converted to unleaded and new oil and water pumps.

Currently no dizzy as that went with the ECU (was running on an emerald). Also no carbs, although I do have a twin 40 inlet manifold that is suitable for this engine.

Open to (reasonable) offers

Stephen


stevebubs - 31/1/05 at 02:28 PM

Just done the maths and think the engine must be 1340 not 1360 (it's got .060 pistons)