Failed this morning at Beverley but as fails go it could have been alot worse! Failed on under dash radius been less than 19mm, inoperative speedo but now fixed as I'd wired it wrong, the top harness mounts are bolted through the top chassis plate which is fine but the nut at the back of each bolt needs a tack weld to the chassis so the inspector said and the last one was the noise level 1db too loud. Tried the bonnet on and more packing in the silencer and it went up by 3db!

Emissions were spot on but the heat from the pipe seriously smoked the carbon can. Pungent accrid smoke but what actually came out the tail pipe was clean as the proverbial whistle!

Anyway a reasonable day and a good drive there and back.


Steve

Did you get your brake balance right? Any tips - that's the thing worrying me the most!

And bad luck on Speedo

And good luck on the re-vist PASS

[Edited on 5/6/06 by muzchap]

Unlucky Steve, not much to sort though.

Id also be interested about brake bias with reference to the MNR pedal box.

Which was the bit they drew fault with for the radius under the dash?

Which exhaust was that with?

Whens the retest?

Rich

Never pack too tightly in the silencer or it just ends up acting like a solid tube! Snuggly fit but not compressed is how I pack my silencer.

If it turns out to be too noisy on the day whats a good tactic for packing?

Ive used steel wool in the past to get through noise test on rallies - does it work ok with a BEC?

Rich

Tried the steel wool and up went the noise! The balance bar was assembled slightly incorrectly both the master cylinder threaded ends had 5mm clearance to the pedal tube. I had to unwind the cylinder rods then spin the ends around until they had 1mm clearence each side to the pedal tube.

He then tested the brakes, calculated the correct bias and I had set it cock on by luck. He then gave me 10 minutes to drill and pin the bar at each end. He wouldn't accept split pins through the nut it had to be a roll pin or similar. In the end the drill snapped in my first hole and he said this was perfect!

Steve

The dash failed because the base of the scuttle that forms the dash was less than the 19mm required. What he said is best to do is to use some round rubber profile that is used for door seals and stick it under the dash. As long as it protrudes towards the passener compartment then it will be fine.

Steve

quote:

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Originally posted by Howlor
some round rubber profile that is used for door seals and stick it under the dash. As long as it protrudes towards the passener compartment then it will be fine.

Steve

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I wonder if the dash profile has been changed - I was led to believe it was SVA proof.

As for the brake bias - how lucky is that Im a concerned about having to do it all in situ. I reckoned on using a nut with the hole predrilled as a guide. Screw it on, one behind to lock it then itll act as a guide to drill into the threads.
You say you had to do it at both ends? Looks pretty tight at the left hand side.

Was it MNR loner can you used?

Well done again, should be no bother

Rich

I predrilled both nuts and had the two spacers ready. A battery drill easily did the job and as I snapped the drill in the second one I was ok. I then tapped the remaining drill section into the first hole and he was happy. He watched me do it closely though!

The can was my own carbon one although heat has done for it now. I am going to get an R1 can and try that I think with a decibel killer also in for good measure.

AgriV8, scappy it is then for the transit side door seal. Thanks for that advice

Steve

One other interesting snippet was that he failed the brake lights due to been LED's the rear lights and the brake lights need to be on separate filaments which with LED's generally they are not. Luckily I had the old normal bulbs with me so did a quick switch.

Steve

Eh? Thats a weird one, not heard of that before. Im using an LED brake light too which have gone through loads of SVAs.

Ill confirm what runs from what though

Cheers for the heads up

Rich

Steve,

depending on which tester you had possiblly Ian for a bec at Beverly.

the door Seal had to be 'attached permenantly' on mine the door seal had a good grasp on the scuttle bottom. The tester on mine did have a very gentel tug on the trim and asked 'if it was permenatly fixed' of course I answered 'Yes' but may be worth taking a tube of adesive just in case.

Ps my meter at MNR was from maplin Was on special and I got it for £20 I think, They checked it at beverly on their calibration machine and found it read 3 DB under ( i think ) I would aim at getting it a good 3 to 5 db under . I think trying the bike can would be a good option

Regards

Agriv8