Morninn' all.
I've fitted my brake cylinder to the support bracket after much hackin' and bashin' with the steering column support. Trouble is, where
I have it now it sits about 10mm too high for the scuttle/bonnet line.
I can try and carry out more drilling and filing to drop it a bit more but I'm a bit worried it might end up the wrong angle for the actuating
rod from the pedal. I wondered if there are any other recommendations?
I thnik it's only the size of the cap that is causinig the issue (it's got the low fluid switch in it)
Any ideas welcome.
BTW, I think the actuating rod could do with being around 15-20mm longer too, any ideas?
Not doing too well am I?
JB
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Can't answer that one specifically but if the res. is too high can you not use a remote one? See Ral Des or BGC Motorsport.
Even then you'll have to make sure the top of the fluid level in the res. is higher than the outlets on the m/c or you may have bleeding problems
(besides the ones you already have!).
HTH
Cheers, Pewe
How about looking into mcs res with the fluid sensor in the body of the res, or use a normal cap with a differential pressure sensor to detect brake
failure.
Darren
this is how they get round the same problem in the Dax Rush
The remote resovoir is used for the dual MC's plus the hydraulic clutch MC
You only put that pic up to show me how tatty my car is didn't you?
My problem is I'm running a standard Sierra pedal set so am a bit limited as to the M/C I can use.
No No not at all and keep at it
The dax uses right angle banjo connections on the top of of the hydraulic cylinders so you could gain quite a bit of room. I dont think the pastic
resevoir bottle was too expensive .
It might be worth a go doing it that way to keep the pedal box alignment correct
Don't worry chap, only kidding
So how do you connect to the remote reservoir? I assume that the bits will be available seperately?
I just don't want to spend a fortune on an already expensive £250 car!
The one in the picture has two connections under the plastic bottle these are piped to the inputs on the mcs ( the two on the left ), the connection
you can see on the side is for a hydraulic clutch . I think dax sell them with or without the third connection.
Yep price might be an issue. Dax want big bucks for their pedal box but i dont think the plackie bottle was much
You need to first find out how your resevoir is attached to the mc though
Stick a Fiat 124/Lada cylinder on with remote reservoir, the mods required are minimal and the car will stop with a lot less pedal pressure.
quote:
Originally posted by Julian B
You need to first find out how your resevoir is attached to the mc though
I don't want to put a downer on your project, but that master cylinder will flex like buggery if you stand on the brakes. My pedal box is floor
mounted and the cylinder was mounted to the square platethat makes up the bulkhead and it failed SVA because it could be seen moving when you pressed
the pedal. I had to weld in some 3mm plate to stiffen the mount.
I apologise if there's summat I can't see, but it does look inadequate to me.
Marcus,
The piccy below shows how I've mounted the box etc. The main plate is 3mm, and there is also another brace welded to the left-hand side of the
pedal frame so hopefully this should be OK. But thanks for the heads-up, I'll make sure I check for that when I get the brakes sorted.
Cheers.
JB
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I suspect you are going to have to rethink the whole thing and start from scratch
quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
I suspect you are going to have to rethink the whole thing and start from scratch
was going to suggest a bonnet bulge