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prop angle?
-matt - 12/11/10 at 12:55 PM

Ive just tryed fitting my MK modified prop shaft and ive adjusted it so its at its shortest. But its still slightly too long.

Its only about a half inch to inch too long so its not that much. But it add quite an angle to the prop.

Will this angle be fine?


or am i going to have to get the prop shortened slightly?

Cheers

twybrow - 12/11/10 at 01:07 PM

Hard to tell from that photo, but the angle looks ok to me...

adithorp - 12/11/10 at 01:21 PM

Angle looks fine from that shot. Whats the relvance of the length to the angle it's at?

SeanStone - 12/11/10 at 05:30 PM

More of an angle will shorten the length

-matt - 12/11/10 at 06:12 PM

Yes i had to angle it to the left to get it to fit.

Its not a huge amount, but im not sure how much angle is acceptable?

But if the prop was an inch shorter it would have fitted nice and straight.

But i think i will bolt it up and see how it spins as i don't really want to get it shortened.

matt_gsxr - 12/11/10 at 06:18 PM

That angle should be fine. Straight isn't supposed to be the best "brinneling" or something.

It looks like you employed a cat to do your wiring. ;-)

Matt

Bluemoon - 12/11/10 at 06:20 PM

Take some time to get the geometry correct. Not sure about 2 piece props, might be worth having a read around (I will post some links if I can find em). Last thing you want is vibration from the prop, cause all sorts of issues. Interestingly you do want some angle (small!) as they ware out quicker with out some working angle (this moves/works the roller bearings+grease).

linky

from linky

quote:

On vehicles with two piece propshafts there is an odd joint. (see the figure below) The working angle of the odd joint should be kept below 1/2 degree and above zero degrees. This is because there is not a companion U-joint. Think of the front piece of a two piece propshaft as being an extension of the transmission output shaft.




Just remember the angles are in 2 planes, you need, I think what you want is the prop-shaft to run at 90 degrees to diff flange (i.e. exactly in-line), then the engine input flange to be in the same plane (i.e. parallel to the diff. If you can't get this then the above page gives you an idea of "howclose" you need to be for different RPMs of the prop. Note your configuration I think is the same as the above picture BUT the gearbox and diff have been swapped over..

I think there are some other configurations as well you will need to read up in the above (it get's complicated!).

This assumes you have UJ's on all the couplings (or you could I guess use a rubber donut on the diff end as it has no working angle(?)) .

I would take some time thinking about this/getting advice from proper prop supply people as quite a lot of members on here have had "issues" with bike transmission adapters ect.. Could be for other reasons mind.



Dan

[Edited on 12/11/10 by Bluemoon] Added link+quote+ explanation text.


[Edited on 12/11/10 by Bluemoon]

[Edited on 12/11/10 by Bluemoon]

Davegtst - 13/11/10 at 01:33 AM

Cut half an inch off the end of the prop where it goes into the slide. I had to do the same to mine to get it to fit at the right angle.

dexion7 - 16/11/10 at 10:03 AM

is it not ok to simply use cv joints then angles dont matter?

-matt - 16/11/10 at 08:40 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Davegtst
Cut half an inch off the end of the prop where it goes into the slide. I had to do the same to mine to get it to fit at the right angle.


thats an idea.

So can i just cut the threaded section off here:


then just bond or weld the dust cap on?

As i think that should be about right to get it to fit good.