Looks like the bushes on my trailing arms need replacing. So I was thinking of upgrading and replacing the trailing arms with a set that use rose joints instead. I have been looking through the history and there has been talk of just threading the inside face of the tube directly rather than using weld inserts. So what size if tube do I need to thread for a 12mm rose joint? Or am I better of use say 1" cds with 2mm wall and turning up a threaded insert from hex bar for each end? does any body have pictures of what they have done?

Is there a specific reason you want to use RJ/rodends?

Is there a reason not to use rose joints? The fount of the car uses them and is not as hash riding as I had expected.

Hi,
I've got a fully rod end de-dion back end on my locost and it is not at all harsh. I used welded inserts and would recommend this approach as it is easy and I think is likely to be more secure due to the quality of the threads on the inserts being better than you are likely to achieve by tapping the CDS tube directly. Just be sure to check your suspension can move freely in all directions with springs removed without any binding up. Any binding is likely to cause stress which could lead to failure. In my case, adjusting the arm lengths carefully avoided any such issues. My setup is 4 arms plus panhard rod by the way.

I've got a crappy build diary website at http://www.meerkats.uk.com just click on the locust picture and go to archive for lots of pics and narrative.

Cheers,
Craig.

Been looking on ebay and it looks like this company sell a link that's the right size for the book trailing arms. i.e. book size it 305mm and they have a 310mm to 340mm link. witch could make the job very easy.

Turnbuckle M12 12mm Link Adjustable from 260mm to 290mm | eBay

Yeah that looks like a good solution and I can vouch for McGill Motorsports, they are highly reputable. I've bought rod ends and gauges from them before no problem and have heard plenty of other good reports.

C.