Hey Guy's,

This last year I've used my striker for more fast road with minor use for track days ( 2/3 events ). My intentions for next year is to go more track ( 5 + events ) and less road use and wondered what spring ratings other strikers users have been using ?

Thoughts and recommendations are welcome from other kitcars as well ?

Currently my car has abit to much roll for track use but is setup quite nicely for fast road but I'm looking to get more enjoyment on track with better cornering speed.

My car is the Sylva Striker Mk2.

Thanks in advance all

Hi

What spec is it currently?

IRS or live axle?

BEC or CEC?

Hi,

Currently its running on spax shocks but i'm unsure of what spring rating is currently used as these were on the car when purchased.

its utilising a live axle and running a silvertop zetec engine with 184bhp / 156lbft.

Hi

Ok, well something like:-

Rear 125 or 150

Front 225 to 275

Which you'll be thinking isn't as stiff as you might have thought.. and you would be correct, but we found when we tested it stiffer that it just goes all uncompliant and the lack of 'feel' is horrid.

I would suspect the Spax's are probably either past it or not valved correct for the car - Protech's or Gaz, correctly valved for your cars weight will make a huge difference if either of the two bits about the spax's are out.

A front Anti Roll Bar makes a really noticable difference to track work (unless you're on a rock hard spring set up that is!) as it allows the car to transfer it's weight so much better - really noticable in any type of chicane or S bend - and it's this in conjunction with reasonable spring rates and good shocks that will enable you to adjust the car to a good balance, plus it'll still be useable on the road.
The Mk2 Striker can take a front ARB as used on a lot of Fisher Fury's with little modification - so shouldn't be too hard to sort.

Set-Up

Get the corner weights, tracking & toe all set up correctly, you'll want about 15mm of rake in the car with you in it.
Worth checking that your car isn't the '12mm bolt through 1/2 inch bushes' that some Sylva's seem to have on the rear axle tie rod brackets - quick fix involving a drill and some new 1/2 inch high tensile bolts..
One quick note - you'll hear of some people 'rose jointing the rear end' instead of metalastic bushes - the bushes take a twisting action, replace with a rose joint and it can lead to a load in places it shouldn't be and isn't recommended.
But a rose joint can be used on one end of the Panhard rod if the axle isn't quite central in the chassis without worry - as long as you use a Really Strong one!


Tyres
Have tested Toyo 888's Yoko A048's and Avon ZZR's back to back - the latter seem to suit the Striker the best and I would highly recommend these, I found the car fine on the 185's all round, though some folks do run the 205 rears this is a struggle to make fit on a live axle Striker and isn't necessary IMHO.

I found that once we had developed a base set up for the car (by taking it to a circuit with some nice longer corners and tweaking springs and dampers until we were happy) we could alter it from something that was beautifully balanced round the sweeps of Anglesey or Pembrey to something properly nippy for Loton park or Prescott by a couple of clicks on damper settings and a small poundage change in tyres.

HTH

Jim

Cheers Jim, that's a lot of great information you provided there.

Funny enough I do use A048's for my track tyres with 185 x 13 on the front and the 205 x 13's on the rear with 5mm spacers.

These tyres are great for the track and wear quite well and only get better with more heat being created.

I am planning on changing the front shocks this winter as I already changed the rears last year.

Thanks again.