Is there any appreciable difference between the <£20 generic master cylinders and the ~£35 Wilwoods? I'm looking for a new MC for the clutch and toying with the idea of trying a different ratio for the two brake cylinders (Currently 0.75" ) . If the Wilwoods are really that much better I'll get some, otherwise I'll save the money and get some cheaper ones.

I've got brand new Willwoods, and the seals have failed on two of them in two years. So... no, I wouldn't pay extra for them.

going to genuine Girling master cylinder is the best route for me.

One of mine died before it was even put on the road!

I replaced it with another wilwood only cos I like things to match

girling or ap are my first choices.

A possible benefit is matching threads for all fittings, doesn't really seem worth it though. I have Wilwoods with Girling MC's and they are fine.

I looked into this recently too:

non-branded are ~£25
Wilwood are ~£35
Actual Girling ones are ~£50
AP ones are even more

My view was that brakes are quite important so go the cheapest branded (i.e. traceable) part, which was Wilwood (so a direct replacement to what I had that will make fitting straight-forward).

Matt

I fitted two Wilwood MCs to the Riot and one failed before 1000 miles.

And when one goes the fluid makes a hell of a mess in the cockpit.

I wish I had fitted Girling's and I suggest you do too.

The best advice is don't scrimp on brakes!

I've had two wilwoods fail on the clutch system, now on girlings.